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Thread: LT95 rebuild for beginners

  1. #121
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    Sounds very much like your handbrake is slightly on.

    DL

  2. #122
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    Did you mark the flanges / drum to ensure everything went back the way it was?
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  3. #123
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    Yes the drum seems warm after a run even with the pads released so its turning freely without brake on.
    Almost like its catching the drum in a single spot if turned by hand.
    Took the drum of today,and the entire transmission brake mechanism swings about that top pivot bolt so thought after some use it should centre.
    I didn't re fasten the shaft nor drum myself initially no,the guy who did did not mark the positions,but since have rotated the shaft and drum with markings to try various positions,to no avail as yet.
    My transmission mount look seriously squashed on one side,newish tho,may see whether the bolt has snapped which would upset balance,but wasn't doing it prior to rear seal and new pads.
    How important is the pre load on the rear main,? would this cause imbalance issues if the clearances are just out?
    With drum off today,i cannot feel any forward back movement in the rear shaft.

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by westy1 View Post
    Yes the drum seems warm after a run even with the pads released so its turning freely without brake on.
    Almost like its catching the drum in a single spot if turned by hand.
    Took the drum of today,and the entire transmission brake mechanism swings about that top pivot bolt so thought after some use it should centre.
    I didn't re fasten the shaft nor drum myself initially no,the guy who did did not mark the positions,but since have rotated the shaft and drum with markings to try various positions,to no avail as yet.
    My transmission mount look seriously squashed on one side,newish tho,may see whether the bolt has snapped which would upset balance,but wasn't doing it prior to rear seal and new pads.
    How important is the pre load on the rear main,? would this cause imbalance issues if the clearances are just out?
    With drum off today,i cannot feel any forward back movement in the rear shaft.
    G'day westy, firstly with the oil leak, it is possible that the oil is coming out there if you have a blocked breather - have you checked it. Also the seal surface on the drive flange should be flat and burr free.Also did you use the later type double lipped seal. There is an oil catcher that is supposed to be under the drive flange to catch any oil that leaks past the seal and redirect it out the bottom front of the handbrake backing plate. It should be bolted in by the 2 bottom bolts that hold the handbrake backing plate onto the rear output housing. And for it to work effectively it should have sealant under it except for the bit that fits over the slot where the oil hole is. In a perfect world no oil should get on the brake shoes even if the rear seal leaks but we all know that doesn't happen. That nut on the rear of the shaft should be tensioned to about 65 ft/lb and also have sealant under the flat washer to seal against the splines otherwise it will leak there. When you pulled the rear housing off and the centre diff came out with it the gear you are taking about that fell out would be the hi range gear that fits on the splines on the front of the diff, then there is a bearing and then another locking collar that operates the diff lock. When you pull them apart you are supposed to "lock" the centre diff first before you pull the centre diff out otherwise the collar will fall off the splines on the front output shaft and make it very difficult to reassemble. The small hi range gear has to go back on with the flat surface of the gear against the shoulders of the splines on the centre diff - you should be able to see the wear marks where they mate together. The front of the gear has a circular flange thingo on it which fits against the bearing. This gear and the bearing should be loctited onto the centre diff assembly. The preload on the centre diff is important and is determined by the shims that fit under the bearing race on the output housing. There is a preload figure but basically the centre diff should have a little resistance to rolling and not be loose or easy to roll. No way it would cause unbalanced issues unless it was very loose. When you refitted the centre diff did you have to rotate it around a bit to get the locking dog onto the centre diff. I'm thinking that maybe the locking dog is not engaged on the splines and has been pushed forward when you refitted the centre diff and is out of balance. Have you tried checking that the diff lock is working correctly. The position of the handbrake drum should not cause any balance problems no matter what spot you fit it back on.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  5. #125
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    Gidday bearman ta for the reply.yes to all the first half,used the double lip seal which is for the lt77 but fits a treat.
    Took due diligence as per manual,silicone behind oil catcher and left a channel etc.
    and no further leaks anywhere near brake drum
    That seep from speedo housing looks to always be in the same place.left side facing forward towards pto cover mid oil level.
    Although I used 400 sand paper to prep the surface, there is a small scratch in the alloy in that area, did my best but still had a slight burr edge and presumed
    the silicone should have filled it easy, not so well it seems.

    Many thanks for the detailed explanation of what I had removed.
    i reseated the gear on the splines after first trying it against the sprocket to see which way fitted,seemed fine both ways so still 50/50 on this.

    Also looked at the gears front edge and saw the flange that the bearing must sit on to centre it,so hopefully have it the right way around, hard to recall exactly when under the car.
    Yes, I reseated the centre diff and rotated the unit applying pressure to hopefully pick up the other half of the bearing shell until it slid back in place .
    On re installation the slight shudder is no worse than before the initial change out,so hoping that centre diff hasn’t added to it and it does rotate with some resistance but doesn’t spin

    Good to know that the preload won’t necessarily be the cause,did wonder as new gasket plus a layer of silicone but there’s no push pull free play I can feel.
    also Speedo needle is not jumping anymore so the housing nut has to be tighter than it was.

    Will test the diff lock tomorrow and report back
    Do you use a silicone bead spread around the gasket or dry fit.
    had good success using it with water pumps etc previously.
    Tap and die further holes may be a last resort.like the idea.
    Have found a compromise transmission brake setting so car doesn’t shudder hot under brakes and get semi useful hold on slope with handbrake at full on.
    Still think it’s binding a tad,maybe brake shoes need to wear down some,or the entire drum isn’t sitting centred exactly any more.
    Really like that it is solid linkages to the handbrake lever,classic retro Land Rover,but had hoped there was some adjustment somewhere.
    Love the Lt95,it’s crap in traffic but so used to it now,I don’t even think about it,and can have knee replacement before gearbox replacement
    cheers Westy

  6. #126
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    I use loctite 518 sealant on all gaskets but only a smidgeon on ones where you have set a preload otherwise you will change the preload. I am thinking that oil leak might be coming from the O ring that seals the intermediate shaft to the casing. It will leak there and follow the edge of the rear output housing down and appear to be coming from the rear housing. Clean the area around the intermediate shaft up with petrol and take it for a run and see if the oil is coming from there. If it is you can either seal it up with a ring of RTV sealant around the shaft or pull it apart and put a new O ring in. I am guessing which way you will go !!!
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  7. #127
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    Just had a good look and it may be exactly where the leak is coming from.
    Surprised as that's above the filler level so would be splash only,but was wet below that point ,so good troubleshooting cheers Brian.
    The reason I got a landie mate to do it originally was that I didn't have a large enough socket to hand,can you recall the size for the housing nut.
    I presume that shaft is on a thread,if so does the o ring seat against the back of the housing,bit gunshy after the last excitement
    Activated diff lock today,felt like it was working?light on etc not that this guarantees anything,but heard the vacuum pulling the lock into place.
    Didn't seem to make it handle any different tho like all four were locked up after a quick test drive 1st/2nd.
    Cheers westy

  8. #128
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    Second try with diff lock on,I have a steep gravel long driveway and in diff lock the outside wheels used to skip around the tightest corner,and steering tightened up,now I cannot deceptively notice a difference,so may not be engaging,,
    Distinct possibility when I reseated that centre diff it didn't pick up the collar as Brian pointed out,seeing it was unlocked aaaargh.

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by westy1 View Post
    Just had a good look and it may be exactly where the leak is coming from.
    Surprised as that's above the filler level so would be splash only,but was wet below that point ,so good troubleshooting cheers Brian.
    The reason I got a landie mate to do it originally was that I didn't have a large enough socket to hand,can you recall the size for the housing nut.
    I presume that shaft is on a thread,if so does the o ring seat against the back of the housing,bit gunshy after the last excitement
    Activated diff lock today,felt like it was working?light on etc not that this guarantees anything,but heard the vacuum pulling the lock into place.
    Didn't seem to make it handle any different tho like all four were locked up after a quick test drive 1st/2nd.
    Cheers westy
    30mm is the socket size for the rear output shaft nut. If yours is a RR box it will have a roller bearing intermediate shaft with a pin through the gears/bearings. What you can see sticking out the back is the pin and it has an O ring on it just inside the housing. Believe me you don't want to pull that pin out unless you are doing a rebuild so I would suggest you clean up around the pin and put some RTV sealant around it. That is the easiest way unless you want to spend about a day dropping the sump and removing the intermediate shaft - they are a pain in the proverbial to get back in place. Easiest way to check if the diff lock is working is to jack a front wheel up after you have engaged it and check if you can turn the wheel.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  10. #130
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    Thumbs up

    Ta Bearman,ok will sort it and many thanks for the assist here.
    Must have been very satisfying to do the full rebuild on one of these I’d say.
    Cheers

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