Just coming back to this since I just got a second hand snorkel to fir up. 70mm seems very large for the holes. The width of the section on the snorkel is no where near that.
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Just coming back to this since I just got a second hand snorkel to fir up. 70mm seems very large for the holes. The width of the section on the snorkel is no where near that.
It does seem big but it's correct. The 'tube' fitting through the guard tapers - it's wider on the body than the 'nose' piece that fits through the inner guard. You need a little wiggle room to line it up too. 70 mm it is!
Thanks, good to clarify, also do you open up the hole in the inner guard at all? I have the "**** template" that's been through a couple of hands along with a copy of the install instructions that aren't too clear. There's a step down between the adaptor and original fitting other wise but that probably exists regardless doesn't it.
I was wondering if there was any particular version of Sikaflex to use?
On another install posting it mention using a MAF Sensor friendly sealant.
Sikaflex is an inert sealant by comparison to silcones so seal away. Just be aware that it's a bitch to clean up and to later remove anything stuck down with it.
I never opened up the inner guard, wasn't mentioned in the safari instructions either.Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
Thanks for this post. It prompted me to finally get to installing my snorkel, a clone from Direct 4x4 in SA.
The cheaper snorkel probably needed more fiddling than the genuine one but it is a reasonable quality. The template was close to accurate but two of the holes did require adjustment with a rat tail file. The end of the snorkel did also require slight shortening.
As most of my jobs are completed in the middle of the night the use of a Dremel was not an option, but a good result was achieved with aviation snips. Centre to centre cut first and then narrow strips to avoid panel distortion.
To avoid relocating the reservoir I chose a small drill. The air drill was not an option (noise again) but the Bosch IXO with fine bit fitted easily.
I note that neither the Sika 11FC nor the recommended Sika 227 are listed by Sika as adhering to polyethylene. I would be interested in others experiences.
Thanks again
Richard
This is a great write up and pretty much how I did my installation although I realized later that that the supplied cloth/fiber connection hose just under the hood really needs better sealing and did it later on.
It takes a bit of nerve when you start drilling holes in the fender, I was reminded of what my uncle who was a cabinet maker used to say, "Measure twice, cut once".:cool:
To seal the cloth duct just coat the thing in siliastic. I just squirted it straight out of the nozzle onto the surface in a continuous stream. Them spray with windex/spray"n"wipe or the like and wrap in glad wrap also sprayed. Wait about half and hour and the silastic will just start to skin, at that point by hand under the silastic wipe across it so that it's completely covering it leaving no gaps. Wait about another 15 min and remove the glad wrap, if it has stuck anywhere don't worry, just spray more and use your finger to smooth out. You can get a really smooth finish. I know you don't see it but you can fil all the crevices and make it watertight.
Old post now but I'm still at a loss as to why they need the cast adaptor when it quite easily could have been moulded it as one piece to the inner fender.
The adaptor footprint is smaller than the hole you cut into the outer fender so theres no problem fitting it thru and it removes the one weak spot in the snorkel in an area where its the hardest to seal and most likely place to suck water and dust in still.
Ive contemplated pulling mine out and having a fab job done...