Thread: TD5 fan idler bearing spining in housing. Fixed.

Looks like you've pulled the timing cover off, just wondered if you needed to pull the head/gasket to get to it? I also thought you had to drop the sump? I think you're lucky you fond a JCB workshop. Mine failed in exactly the same way twice.... But the local LR specialist (who I no longer use) fixed it with just loctite, and that flogged itself our after about 12 months. The first fix cost nearly the same as a brand new timing cover.... Those bearings are expensive ~$200....

while thats a great old school fix for the problem, be careful with it.. IF the bearing gets locked in skewed you will polish the belt to death or throw them with surprising regularity.

keep an eye on the surface of the belt that runs on the pully thats supported by that bearing, if it starts to look shiny you need to re-visit the repair.

IF after having repaired it that way you're having problems with belt polishing or throwing you might find that you will need to add a 3rd bolt offset along the axis of the bearing in the housing to tilt the bearing back into alignment.

That totaly rocks.

I think that is my problem to. I don't have a chirp but I have a wobble. I think I can get into it without taking the timing cover off. did you take the bearing out before you drilled and tapped?

Cheers matt.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

IF after having repaired it that way you're having problems with belt polishing or throwing you might find that you will need to add a 3rd bolt offset along the axis of the bearing in the housing to tilt the bearing back into alignment.

do you mean put the screws in 3 different distances in from the front ion the housing.

Is if possible to bypass this pully all together if I fit an electric fan? That whay I could put my dollars into a fan instead of a Bearing. I am thinking remove the bearing and plug the whole with welsh plug.. Anyone tried this?

On a 505 Pug the viscouse fan would rob quike a bit of power. could be a good thing to ditch the old Fan.

Cheers
Matt

Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

Looks like you've pulled the timing cover off, just wondered if you needed to pull the head/gasket to get to it? I also thought you had to drop the sump? I think you're lucky you fond a JCB workshop. Mine failed in exactly the same way twice.... But the local LR specialist (who I no longer use) fixed it with just loctite, and that flogged itself our after about 12 months. The first fix cost nearly the same as a brand new timing cover.... Those bearings are expensive ~$200....

I had a choice, Holden or JCB, both owned by the same people.
Convinced JCB to do it as needed an "out side the square" fix.

The head is off but I'm yet to drop the sump.
I don't think it can be done with out the head coming off as you couldn't get the stud out/loose enough.
Droping the sump would also be needed but then you have sealing issues to the head when refitting.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

while thats a great old school fix for the problem, be careful with it.. IF the bearing gets locked in skewed you will polish the belt to death or throw them with surprising regularity.

keep an eye on the surface of the belt that runs on the pully thats supported by that bearing, if it starts to look shiny you need to re-visit the repair.

IF after having repaired it that way you're having problems with belt polishing or throwing you might find that you will need to add a 3rd bolt offset along the axis of the bearing in the housing to tilt the bearing back into alignment.

I have been watching it Dave, it's been done for 12 months and no issuees with the belt
It was a concern but the 2 screws are pushing the bearing into the lower part of the housing.
The bearing was fitted in the housing with the circlip and the screws where done up evenly.

Originally Posted by mattg

That totaly rocks.

I think that is my problem to. I don't have a chirp but I have a wobble. I think I can get into it without taking the timing cover off. did you take the bearing out before you drilled and tapped?

Cheers matt.

Originally Posted by mattg

do you mean put the screws in 3 different distances in from the front ion the housing.

Is if possible to bypass this pully all together if I fit an electric fan? That whay I could put my dollars into a fan instead of a Bearing. I am thinking remove the bearing and plug the whole with welsh plug.. Anyone tried this?

On a 505 Pug the viscouse fan would rob quike a bit of power. could be a good thing to ditch the old Fan.

Cheers
Matt

The bearing was removed and checked prior to doing this fix.
They used a 90Deg attachment on a drill to allow for access.
The holes where then tapped to suit the grub screws.
After cleaning, the bearing was fitted with locktite on the outer shell.
The circlip was refitted and the shaft and pully addaptor done up by hand.
The 2 screws were then done up evenly after being locktited.
The right hand grub screw is not squere to the bearing but the base off the screw is curved(not square like a bolt) so not an issuee.
After some curing time every thing was put back together.

The conversion to electric is a whole new debate worthy of a new thread
A few discutions on D1's not cooling the diesels with electric conversions have been had but TD5's???
The hole is blind so if removed no need for a plug.
The pullies need to spin in the same direction for the vachume pump on the alt. and power steering/water pump.
When my viscouse died I hot wired the air conditioning fan and it cooled things down, be it spining full time.
Just leaving the fan off will reduce the load on the bearing so it could be an option.