Master
SubscriberG'day guys,
I'm about to start work on a shelf for the rear of my 110 and could do with some advice before I go too far.
I don't have pictures at the moment, but the plan at this stage is to cut some 18mm ply to fit across the back, and to chock it up on another strip of ply either side to lift it level with the outer section of either wheel well.
I'll tie this down to the four lashing rings, and then secure gear on top as required.
My issue is this: I was told by a chandler yesterday that turnbuckles with hooks would be too weak for my purposes and steered me towards large (8mm IIRC) eyebolts. I've got shackles to secure these to the rings, and I've got four tie-down rings to use above the ply to tighten down onto the eyebolts. This seems pretty hefty to me, and isn't exactly neat below given all those fixings. And I end up with four eyes permanently proud of the deck.
On the upside this is a quick and easy solution requiring only four holes and allowing me to secure or remove the panel from above. And I'll probably have plenty of use for the eyes.
Can you guys think of a better way to achieve what I'm after? I had been leaning towards four hook-hook turnbuckles and four tie-downs each with a plate using four screws into the underside of the ply. That was until the guys told me it would be too weak.
Anyway, I'll post some pics when I get home, but would really appreciate your advice.
Cheers,
James
Hi James,
Check out these from Daniel at Mulgo, I am not sure what they are rated at but they are pretty sturdy. The track also comes in longer lengths.
Anchor Track Kit 150mm Long Section with a Single Stud - Expedition Centre by Mulgo - 4x4 accessories and parts online store
Have you considered bolting the ply through the wheel arch?
Iain
Master
SubscriberThanks Iain,
I hadn't considered bolting through the arch as I'd wanted to avoid drilling holes in the car wherever possible until I was 100% sure that it was the best and permanent solution.
As far as that track goes it's good stuff and I already have some from my old SIII that I'm yet to put back to use, but it will only help with securing gear above the ply, and not with fixing the ply in place.
James
Wizard
Hi James.
Not sure if your Doofer is the same kind of thing as my D2, but my rear drawer sytem uses tension/ratchet straps to hold it down.
Your configuartion (by it's description) sounds similar to mine - verticals and a top board. But my system also has a "bottom" board that sits flat against the cargo area floor. There are four large holes drilled through it that coincide with the positions of the factory tie down hooks. I run a strap each side front to rear as tight as I can get through these holes, through the tie downs, and over the top of the bottom board.
This has proven more than sturdy/strong enough on very rough terrain and has caused me no issues.
If I remember' I'll try to stick some pics up later when I get home for you, if that helps?
This was a professionally built draw system from a number of years back.
Where in WA you based. If you're close by you take a look instead?
Cheers,
Last edited by AussieAub; 13th May 2011 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Query on location
Master
SubscriberThanks Kieren,
I'm in Freo. I'll keep your offer in mind.
Here's a photo of the fastening arrangement that I was talking about. You can see it will be bomb-proof, but is it over the top?
Wizard
No worries. Freo's a bit far just for a quick gander!!Originally Posted by jc109
Suppose it more depends on if you're happy with it!
IMHO, it looks a lot more cumbersome than mine, but that will depend on how the tie down points are located in the back of the Doofer I suppose.
I'll defo put some photos up later and you can see what you think.
I must say I like my "strap" down option better TBH, only as it means I can lay stuff over the top and not have it interfere with the tie downs.
Watch this space....!!
Wizard
James,
Photos as promised.
Hope they are clear enough for you.
If not, let me know and I'll try and do better....!!
I personally like the gaps down the sides, as it gives me somewhere to store my roll-out sand trax and other flat items, like camp tables etc.
(excuse the dirt, she's been neglected for a while!)
AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
18mm is a bit much i think.
Run one sheet across the top of the wheel arches, at each end go vertical under the top of the tub sides. at the front, a couple of brackets where the seat belts bolt down.
Ply on the floor as well but have that come under the galv strip by the back door, lose the screws and drop some counter sunk bolts though.
tie the top and the bottom together with your verticals beside the wheel arches.
NB the with from wheel arch to wheel arch is smaller than the with of the back door. make your draw that wide you will never be able to open it.
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