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Thread: Rebuild D2 ZF Selector Switch UHB100190

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,959

    Rebuild D2 ZF Selector Switch UHB100190

    D2 Auto Selector Switch. p/n UHB100190



    Drill out the rivets



    Cover Off



    A cover showing water ingress damage



    Lift the tabs over the wire crimps



    Tab off - wire crimps revealed



    Continue to remove the tabs







    All the tabs off



    I marked the position of the wheel - this is not necassary



    Remove the wheel - notice O-Ring seal either side of it.



    The wheel



    The cams on the wheel that actuate the switch.



    Clean with a contact cleaner that doesn't leave a residue



    Prise out the whole assembly - do not remove the tan coloured tabs, and the micro-switches don't have prise open tops.



    The silver contacts are moved by the cam on the wheel to actuate the micro-switches. These cams have a mechanical function (not electrical). They will wobble a bit, but test that when pushed firmly in, they have some spring resistance as the open the electrical contact.



    The electrical contacts are on the outside of the assembly. Clean these well, they're like indicator stalk switches in the nature of their construction.



    Here you can see the wiring and both switches.



    Remove the rubber seal and apply silicone to both faces, then reuse the seal and bolt it together using nylock nuts.
    Last edited by Pedro_The_Swift; 13th March 2018 at 09:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Lower Hunter Valley NSW
    Posts
    313
    Save a few bucks there. Great idea!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,959

    WARNING

    Just a note of warning : the cleaner spray is somewhat corrosive, so that after a week the unit starts to get intermittent faults again.

    What I should have done is given it a spray of INOX or CRC prior to reassembly.

    I removed the unit, and effected this repair. I also applied a bit of petroleum jelly over the electrical crimp terminals and on the selector wheel for good measure.

    Even without the extra 'lube' the above fix will get you back home safely and you can remove and sort it out again later. At least you won't be driving home in locked in 3rd Gear (limp home mode), especially bad if you're towing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    228
    Thanks michael2 for your effort. MR Auto (Bris./Redcliffe) uses "contact grease".
    2016 SDV6 SE Graphite "Pearl"
    2003 td5-Auto--- allowed to keep it!
    1992-200tdi Man---gone.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,834
    Goodonya Michael2, this helped a lot for when I refreshed the xyz switch in my P38 today. Many thanks for your write-up.

    This is probably obvious to some, but not all (like me). 4mm diameter bolts and nylock nuts are good to hold the switch together after removing the old rivets. I think 4mm x 15mm bolts would be fine if you can get them, but I could only get 4mm x 20mm bolts. Had to swap the bottom two bolts for 4mm x 12mm bolts as they were fouling the lever.

    Hope this helps someone else avoid the same oversight as me.

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bacchus Marsh Vic.
    Posts
    3,238
    I gave a member a hand to do this mod. not long ago but we couldn't get the switch assey out.
    No water was present but it cleaned OK with contact spray.
    All contacts tested OK with the multi meter and all was good when refitted.

    The only hint I have is we bought cupped head bolts.
    Using an allen key was so simple compared to the spaner we tried on std bolts.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
    When did you last visit?
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    moe
    Posts
    22

    Post Thanks

    that looks like a great way to fix my problem

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    south africa
    Posts
    9
    Many many thanks Michael2. I got one hell of a shock when I priced a replacement switch here in South Afrca. Over USD800 equivalent. I followed your guide and so far everything working fine again. My 2004 D2 auto was slightly different (not so complicated) and the copper contacts could be bent a little to exert more pressure on the rotary slide tracks. Sorry I wasn't as diligent as you with the pics

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    998

    Rebuild D2 ZF Selector Switch UHB100190

    Good stuff. Been looking for this thread.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Portsmouth UK
    Posts
    1

    Thumbs up Thank you!

    I haven't had a go at this yet but seems like it could save a packet!! I will let you know if it cures the problem.

    Whilst on the issue can you confirm that that the car needs to be in neutral before removing the switch, and is there any special requirements when putting it back on the vehicle, i.e. position etc.?

    Thank you for a very helpful post

    Nick

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