Jeez don't tell me **** like that!Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
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Jeez don't tell me **** like that!Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
Ok I was able to do some shed tidying and got enough room to get the rangie in...no more sunburn:)
My mate Ash helped me yesterday with the trans mount relocation. thanks man!
I settled on redrilling the transfer mounting holes 45mm back.
Right hand side, had to cut off a piece of the air suspension air tank bracket to drill the bottom hole...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/166.jpg
LH side...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/167.jpg
So the engine ends up here...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/168.jpg
LH side clearance...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/169.jpg
RH side clearance...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/170.jpg
I may not be able to use EF-L mounts afterall. Diff clearance may be an issue. I might be able to use them without the bottom bracket and use a flat plate on the bottom instead. This may provide the needed clearance.
A solid prop shaft is probably going to be in order here but I can also trim that extra un-needed boss off from under the starter mount.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/171.jpg
I put a (302w ex f100) and c10 auto with a lowstall converter from pro automatics, and a nissan g60 xfercase with a marks adaptor into a range chassis, but has a series 2 swb body on it did not have your clearance issues.
with the g60 it was not constant 4wd but never a problem. maxis F&R .
It was the bees knees, a lot lighter than a rangie then again it was not an xr8 motor either but I reckon my chipped td5 110 goes just as hard.
good luck with your project.
Just measured it up and the mounts will fit with plenty of clearance if I trim off the lower portion of the mount(the part with the bolt hole). I'll make 6mm plate brackets to weld to the chassis.
Original mounts...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1115.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1116.jpg
Mounts removed...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1117.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1118.jpg
New mounts started in 5mm steel...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1119.jpg
Pieces of the new mounts...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1120.jpg
Tacked on...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1121.jpg
Welded...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1122.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1123.jpg
Mods to RH engine mount for diff clearance. This gives another 25mm higher than the bump stops.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1124.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1125.jpg
and the engine in place..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/01/1126.jpg
Had to make a new bracket for the idler pulley because the original hit the steering box.
I started by cutting this bit off...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/987.jpg
Then I made this bracket I. It's 25mm 304 bar and 20x6 304 flat bar. The holes are tapped 3/8" UNC into the flat bar which means the top hole in the original bracket(the one on the left in photo) needs to be drilled out as it's already tapped for 3/8" UNC. It doesn't strictly need to be 3/8" but it works out well for the front bracket hole which is an unused hole that just happens to tap out to 3/8" just nicely without any drilling.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/988.jpg
Found some header bolts that worked out nice to hold it on..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/989.jpg
The front of the bracket picks up this hole that I mentioned before. These header bolts are handy although I did have to shorten this one.
The bearing spigot is turned down to 16.75mm with a 6.5mm step and tapped M10x1.5....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/990.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/991.jpg
On there....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/992.jpg
Side view. It's not as close as it looks but I'm going to clearance a bit more of the ally bracket where that steering box bolt is close to it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/993.jpg
Tried the genie headers that were on the engine when I got it. LH side was a no go but the drivers side just fell on there!?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/962.jpg
Nice work as usual Pete. The LH shouldn't be a problem given your skills with pacies and EB 351s :)
Doing research on an engine transplant for my Disco but looking at the dark side for repowering mine.
Cheers mate,
Yeah I think I'm going to make my own anyway. The Genies are only 1 1/2" and I want to make 1 5/8" jobs which will be better suited to the ally heads I may end up fitting.
Besides I think I'll use stainless too. Strange how every exhaust place I talk to reckons it'll crack but none of the stainless exhausts I've done before have ever cracked! One guy wanted $3.5K to build just the headers!?!
Got the propshafts back on Friday. The front is 45mm longer than stock and it's a 1 1/4" heavy wall shaft. The rear is of course shortened 45mm.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/02/1564.jpg
It seems they used another uni end that is larger than the sample shaft I gave them. It still clears but only by about 1mm!? I'll be able to trim a little for clearance so It'll be ok I think, might use an ally pan too, which will make clearancing easier still.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/02/1565.jpg
Looks good otherwise, I'll probably pull the front springs to check for actual bellhousing clearance...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/02/1566.jpg
Got a header kit from Castle. It's all 304 with 1 5/8" primary, 2" secondary and 2 1/2" collectors. Not real impressed with the head plates...they look like bananas but, I'll be able to smack em into shape. This weekend looks like it may be cool enough for some header building too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/02/1567.jpg