Thread: 351W EFI into Classic Rangie

Ok I was able to do some shed tidying and got enough room to get the rangie in...no more sunburn
My mate Ash helped me yesterday with the trans mount relocation. thanks man!
I settled on redrilling the transfer mounting holes 45mm back.
Right hand side, had to cut off a piece of the air suspension air tank bracket to drill the bottom hole...



LH side...



So the engine ends up here...



LH side clearance...



RH side clearance...



I may not be able to use EF-L mounts afterall. Diff clearance may be an issue. I might be able to use them without the bottom bracket and use a flat plate on the bottom instead. This may provide the needed clearance.
A solid prop shaft is probably going to be in order here but I can also trim that extra un-needed boss off from under the starter mount.

I put a (302w ex f100) and c10 auto with a lowstall converter from pro automatics, and a nissan g60 xfercase with a marks adaptor into a range chassis, but has a series 2 swb body on it did not have your clearance issues.
with the g60 it was not constant 4wd but never a problem. maxis F&R .

It was the bees knees, a lot lighter than a rangie then again it was not an xr8 motor either but I reckon my chipped td5 110 goes just as hard.

good luck with your project.

Just measured it up and the mounts will fit with plenty of clearance if I trim off the lower portion of the mount(the part with the bolt hole). I'll make 6mm plate brackets to weld to the chassis.

Original mounts...





Mounts removed...





New mounts started in 5mm steel...



Pieces of the new mounts...



Tacked on...



Welded...







Mods to RH engine mount for diff clearance. This gives another 25mm higher than the bump stops.





and the engine in place..

Had to make a new bracket for the idler pulley because the original hit the steering box.
I started by cutting this bit off...



Then I made this bracket I. It's 25mm 304 bar and 20x6 304 flat bar. The holes are tapped 3/8" UNC into the flat bar which means the top hole in the original bracket(the one on the left in photo) needs to be drilled out as it's already tapped for 3/8" UNC. It doesn't strictly need to be 3/8" but it works out well for the front bracket hole which is an unused hole that just happens to tap out to 3/8" just nicely without any drilling.



Found some header bolts that worked out nice to hold it on..



The front of the bracket picks up this hole that I mentioned before. These header bolts are handy although I did have to shorten this one.
The bearing spigot is turned down to 16.75mm with a 6.5mm step and tapped M10x1.5....





On there....



Side view. It's not as close as it looks but I'm going to clearance a bit more of the ally bracket where that steering box bolt is close to it.

Tried the genie headers that were on the engine when I got it. LH side was a no go but the drivers side just fell on there!?

Nice work as usual Pete. The LH shouldn't be a problem given your skills with pacies and EB 351s

Doing research on an engine transplant for my Disco but looking at the dark side for repowering mine.

Cheers mate,
Yeah I think I'm going to make my own anyway. The Genies are only 1 1/2" and I want to make 1 5/8" jobs which will be better suited to the ally heads I may end up fitting.
Besides I think I'll use stainless too. Strange how every exhaust place I talk to reckons it'll crack but none of the stainless exhausts I've done before have ever cracked! One guy wanted $3.5K to build just the headers!?!