No I haven't. Interested to see them. Can't see any attachment.
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I can't understand why you can't see the 2 word files that I attached to my previous post. Of course if you mean you can't see the picture, that is because you have to download the attached word file and open the file in word or another word processor that can open *.doc files and display imbedded images (not wordpad).
In case there is some other reason why you can't see the attachments, I have converted the drawing of the driver side sill tank below. This is the 2nd page of the attached doc file. On the 1st page Roger says:
Amendments to Original Drawings.
- Overall width of tank reduced from 360mm to 350mm following discovery that Defenders vary somewhat in this dimension. No trouble has been experienced since the width was altered to 350mm.
- The 3/8” BSP air vent was found to be inadequate and a second one (same size) should be fitted at the front of the tank. These should be connected via a ‘T’ piece (3/8 x 3/8 x ¾) with a ¾” pipe T’ed into the existing air breather line and taking care to avoid low spots.
- The 50mm dia. Inlet tube could be reduced to 38mm if desired.
- Use 900 Female Elbow in lieu of straight union depending on desired direction of outlet pipe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/02/308.jpg
Thanks, using the iPhone at the moment, so could be that.
Finally found a bit more time to get into the 130 and after some external dramas is progressing well now.
I wanted to coat the insides of the chassis rails and cross members to protect agianst rust so I grabbed the trusty Schutz Gun and thought I would be a clever boy and extend the 50cm extension, (which couldnt reach all of the internals without drilling several extra holes per rail) to 500cm.
I used tape on all the holes around the chassis to ensure I didnt coat the garage floor and other things from wayward spray.
I heated the nylon tube end and crimped it over then used some mig wire to put 6 fine holes around the circumference to make a nice spray pattern and thought I would and simply feed the tube down the chassis, pull the trigger and pull the tube out slowly, succesfully coating the chassis inside with chassis black paint.........hmmm, too much tube length, paint starts to fill tube and air pressure back through siphon tube and can pressurises and then... spend an hour with a rag and can of thinners cleaning the results.
New plan. Go see the local Fire Ext people, aquire an old water fire ext and use that.
Attachment 58801
Put 2 litres of Chassis black into the Ext bottle (9lt capacity) and replace valve, use compressed air to 15 psi and use the previously failed nozzle ext. Sensational results with the entire chassis heavily coated throughout.
Attachment 58802
About 250ml retrieved/ lost from chassis drain hioles and the tape from all holes was coated.
I finally cut and shut the LRA Aux tank to fit the 130 DC and pressure test all came up good.
A quick unplanned visit to Adelaide found me adding a 120 litre tank also. Sedimenter and filter for each tank have been installed.
Bringing me to about 180 in total
Attachment 58803
The Chassis is now rolling and the drivetrain complete. Shocks and springs are not yet done as I havnt 100% decided on which powerplant yet.
Attachment 58808
Swaybar spacer brackets have been fabbed and awaiting the new sway bar bushes for fitting, as 50mm lift is happening anyway.
Having decided to paint it Ford Burnt Orange, I started having second thoughts when I saw an old FJ Cruiser in it.
I started to think I might get a little tired of it and more importantly it just didnt seem to work.
I started to check out some "toned down" versions of the Burnt Orange.
Long story short the choice was narrowed to either Ford Yellow Ochre (XY GT) or Camel Yellow/Sandglow
after a spray pak of both were made up at Super cheap the decision was made and the 130 will be Camel Yellow aka Sandglow, code LRC361 http://www.google.com.au/imgres?q=ca...4&tx=100&ty=56 , the paint is in the shed and should have first coat in about a week.
Now I probably have to change its nickname from "Agent Orange" to..
Cheers
That looks amazing! Can't wait to see the finished product! :)
I had few days off and it was time to splash some paint around.
Attachment 60131
I am really happy with final colour choice.
Which is just as well, because I wasn't going to do it twice. I still have the bonnet & guards to do, along with seat boxes.
Finally start to put the pieces back on the chassis this week.
Hi I'm new to land rovers but like the look of the 130 and have been told they are good off/on road. I'm looking at a 2005 TD5 and a 2008 2.4l. I know the Ford engine is good in the Transit van. How do they go in the 130. What's the best of the two.
Thanks Camo.
Hi and welcome.
I can't comment on the 2.4. & 2.2 motors as I havnt driven them. The 6 speed seems to be a good box behind either from most reports.
A search ( search button on the bottom left of the page) through the forum specifically on the 2.4 will bring some good info.
A full / max weight 130 wont set any records for speed but regardless of factory engine choice will get on with the job on and off road, without drama.
The TD5 is a fantastic motor which responds well to a remap and punches well above its capacity.
The TD5 was built with + 500,000 km life in mind and based on my own experience, they will easily achieve this and more.
Like anything, good maintenance/ history will help sort the bad from the good.
The newer vehicle has some options you may find better. Such as the 6 speed and better A/C.
Starting to be more recognisable now.
Spent a bit of time measuring and adjusting to get it all plumb according to the doors etc.
Attachment 60633
You may be able to see the "doubler" plate with captive nuts I had to make. The original Nutserts had cracked around the sheet metal.
Attachment 60634
I will have to get the proper camera out soon because the phone just can't seem to show true colour.
How is it coming along now mate? Any more pics? :)