130 Dual cab for me

Fitted SLABS, BCU and auto ECU in the centre section of the seat box using the modified D2 brackets. I fitted the C1600 speedo correction unit here also. These are now nice and high and fit well under the console.
I ran an extra earth wire to the ECUs direct from the battery to ensure a good circuit.

New brackets have been made to mount the D2 binnacle. I'm bending up a new binnacle housing to mimic the original but with some extra width to accommodate the D2 binnacle switches. These switches are for Driving lights, light bar, winch "in and out" and of course the original Cruise Control.

Hooked up power and was very happy to see the dash light up and ECUs communicating with Nanocom.
Turned the key and nothing....
Engine immobilised. New battery in fob still nothing - fob is dead.
Nanocom is communicating so I extract EKA code and follow sequence. Horns beep to say EKA isn't accepted.🤔
Seems I have a problem now because with no working fob and a a refused EKA , apparently I'm stuffed.

Hooked up Nancom and disabled the alarm- save settings- immobiser led is now off- turn key...
Woo hoo we have success, try the lights etc, all working.
One happy camper.
Now to neaten up the remaining wiring and fit the head lining and console.
Still have to modify the D2 window regulators and assemble the doors.
Plenty of other things too, but it was well past due for an update.

So late but as promised, some conversion info.

Why fit the D2 electrics into a defender?

At the time the Compushift option plus sourcing the Defender TD5 loom was running into some $3k. This was just for wiring and didnt include the Defender engine ECU.
In my circumstances with a full donor vehicle and my own effort, I achieved (in my opinion) a superior result.:cool:

D2 wiring set up direct benefits-
Engine- Higher power output from standard due to D2 ECU - good range of maps and power upgrade options available for Auto trans models.:twisted:

Auto - Factory settings which don't require me to set up so everything is direct interface as its designed for the TD5
:cool:
Torque Converter lockup in different modes for Hi Lo sport and manual modes etc. I don't know if the Compushift provides this or not.
Simple and cheap replacement of ECU in the event of failure and complete compatability with Nanocom diagnostics.

Other functions.
BCU- Alarm, Central locking, variable intermittent wipers, cruise control, heated seats and power window functions as well as a myriad of other ?creature comforts? all requiring significant time and cost to fit using standard Defender and aftermarket bits. I just enable or disable as desired.

SLABS ECU- essentially irrelevant except for the SLS
This gives the option of fully integrated and controlled Air rear end without the need for additional aftermarket computers.:BigThumb:

So quite simply I gained the numerous D2 features completely integrated and factory compatible that would normally require many separate wiring looms and likewise manufactures gear to retro fit into a Defender.
Arguably the result is more reliable.
The Wiring regardless, is a huge upgrade in quality and reliability to the original 96 Defender wiring.

So whats been removed from the loom?
Wiring to the rear tailgate door i.e wiper, door lock, Number plate light, highmount brake light, demister, fuel flap solenoid and radio signal amplifier.
I have still used the signal amplifier, I just picked up the wire closer to the front.
I have repurposed the rear wiper switch to activate tray/work lights.
ABS pump wires and windscreen heater wires removed.
The modulator wires have been removed and the ABS indictor light wire has been disconnected.
The SRS module has been removed and no lights are on the dash.

Now the bigger mods.
Main fuse/relay box wiring- all extended by around 16" (if you contemplate this it will depend on your box location, mine is front left engine bay)
LH blinker, parker, guard indicator extended around 12"
AC hi/lo pressure switch, Bonnet switch, and inertial switch extended nearly 20"
Accelerator and brake light wiring extended by 10"
Several Earth header points need to be attached.
ABS sensors- the D2 sensors have been replaced with D1 units, I had to fit D1 swivel housings to the front to accommodate - these are necessary for the speedo inputs for the D2 system.
Surprisingly the D2 Fuel Pump, Sender loom is just right for the 130 so no mods required here.
Finally the rear lights need the plugs removed and new ones fitted to suit the generic tray lights, fog and reverse lights.

There are probably 5 rolls of electrical tape used and numerous cable ties, and number of brackets fabricated/modified to mount the main fuse/relay box, ECU's, Internal fuse box (IDM) and instrument pack.
I have had to modify the wiper/indicator mounting bracket for the D2 items also.
Straight forward enough?:confused:

Feel free to PM for chat if seriously contemplating this.
If you are considering this- no donor vehicle = probably easier options
Donor vehicle + Planned major restoration + ability to understand Circuit diagrams and solder well = good result.

Fitted the aux power sockets and covered the rear bulkhead panel.
Slimline sub sits behind this too.



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Very neat. It will be an incredible auto 130 tourer, with a lot of new almost new stuff. It should last a while.

Back into it again this weekend and run into some difficulties getting te engine running.
I ordered a new fob and had no trouble synching the key but couldnt get thye thing to start. It would turn over but not fire.
Having spent all day Saturday revising settings and purging the fuel system, having someone elses thoughts helped me confirm my course of action.

This morning had me checking all earth points and ECU, BCU etc settings.
I hot wired the fuel pump straight from a battery just to make sure I wasnt getting a voltage drop. It sounded better than from the truck wiring.
Did the start sequence and got a "fire" intermittently from a cyl.

So from this decided it wasnt ECU related and had to be somehow a fuel issue.
Unplugged all the lines and blew them out with compressed air (did this before fitting nearly 16 months ago) all good.
Pulled the fuel reg and found a small piece of plastic/crud.
Pulled the pump and checked all the terminals and filters were clean.
Plugged all back in again. This time the pump sounded a whole lot better and the thing kicked into life almost immediately.

One happy camper here, as this is the first time the Defer has moved under its own power since the project began!
This motor is exactly as expected for 49k quiet and smooth. The auto is shifting properly (in the carport) and now have a fresh drive to get things fully mobile!

I can keep fitting the interior gear and get cracking on the new dash binnacle.

Some things just make me smile.. and this is one of them:)
Bullbar just arrived this morning.

Attachment 110260
2nd hand from a panel beater- seems some paint smudges from someone elses car and a scratch is deemed worthy of replacement.
No complaints from me!
Some thinners softened the powdercoating around the scratch and some light polish took care of the rest. I had more marks on my last new bullbar in a day from the carpark than this has. It also came with a new fitting kit!

Attachment 110261

New filler necks fitted for main and aux tanks and guards and mudflaps on.

Attachment 110262

Getting closer...

New photos ?

Test fit of the new binnacle.
I'm happy with this. It maintains the original Defender binnacle profile and IMO doesn't look too out of place.
The Disco switch blocks give plenty of aux options.
Now to fabricating the gussets and side brackets for the heater controls.

Attachment 110368

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VladTepes

New photos ?

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Yes- of new bullbar. The one in previous pics didn't let me fit the longer nose without big mods.

Quick update on the "dash works"
The binnacle shroud is finished and have the Raptor console in.
One of my problems fitting the D2 cluster was the new binnacle made the existing fan controller/air in switch/lever very tight to get to.
I felt the 2speed fan was rubbish anyway so fitted a D1 resistor pack and a D2 rear aircon switch.
Now I have a 4 speed fan. But what to do with lever to open to fresh air.
So I made this.


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Attachment 111725


Using a D2 fresh/recirc motor and modified mech. I attached this to the binnacle bracket.
Sweet - push button air in and a 4 speed blower.