Reply With QuoteSo late but as promised, some conversion info.
Why fit the D2 electrics into a defender?
At the time the Compushift option plus sourcing the Defender TD5 loom was running into some $3k. This was just for wiring and didnt include the Defender engine ECU.
In my circumstances with a full donor vehicle and my own effort, I achieved (in my opinion) a superior result.
D2 wiring set up direct benefits-
Engine- Higher power output from standard due to D2 ECU - good range of maps and power upgrade options available for Auto trans models.
Auto - Factory settings which don't require me to set up so everything is direct interface as its designed for the TD5
Torque Converter lockup in different modes for Hi Lo sport and manual modes etc. I don't know if the Compushift provides this or not.
Simple and cheap replacement of ECU in the event of failure and complete compatability with Nanocom diagnostics.
Other functions.
BCU- Alarm, Central locking, variable intermittent wipers, cruise control, heated seats and power window functions as well as a myriad of other ?creature comforts? all requiring significant time and cost to fit using standard Defender and aftermarket bits. I just enable or disable as desired.
SLABS ECU- essentially irrelevant except for the SLS
This gives the option of fully integrated and controlled Air rear end without the need for additional aftermarket computers.
So quite simply I gained the numerous D2 features completely integrated and factory compatible that would normally require many separate wiring looms and likewise manufactures gear to retro fit into a Defender.
Arguably the result is more reliable.
The Wiring regardless, is a huge upgrade in quality and reliability to the original 96 Defender wiring.
So whats been removed from the loom?
Wiring to the rear tailgate door i.e wiper, door lock, Number plate light, highmount brake light, demister, fuel flap solenoid and radio signal amplifier.
I have still used the signal amplifier, I just picked up the wire closer to the front.
I have repurposed the rear wiper switch to activate tray/work lights.
ABS pump wires and windscreen heater wires removed.
The modulator wires have been removed and the ABS indictor light wire has been disconnected.
The SRS module has been removed and no lights are on the dash.
Now the bigger mods.
Main fuse/relay box wiring- all extended by around 16" (if you contemplate this it will depend on your box location, mine is front left engine bay)
LH blinker, parker, guard indicator extended around 12"
AC hi/lo pressure switch, Bonnet switch, and inertial switch extended nearly 20"
Accelerator and brake light wiring extended by 10"
Several Earth header points need to be attached.
ABS sensors- the D2 sensors have been replaced with D1 units, I had to fit D1 swivel housings to the front to accommodate - these are necessary for the speedo inputs for the D2 system.
Surprisingly the D2 Fuel Pump, Sender loom is just right for the 130 so no mods required here.
Finally the rear lights need the plugs removed and new ones fitted to suit the generic tray lights, fog and reverse lights.
There are probably 5 rolls of electrical tape used and numerous cable ties, and number of brackets fabricated/modified to mount the main fuse/relay box, ECU's, Internal fuse box (IDM) and instrument pack.
I have had to modify the wiper/indicator mounting bracket for the D2 items also.
Straight forward enough?
Feel free to PM for chat if seriously contemplating this.
If you are considering this- no donor vehicle = probably easier options
Donor vehicle + Planned major restoration + ability to understand Circuit diagrams and solder well = good result.
) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Originally Posted by VladTepes
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