Thread: My home built camper

Witchdoctor, Nice design!
Well thought out.
Thanks, Dave.

.... the only thing that is an issue is condensation on the inside of the canvas & the underside of the foam mattress, we have just got hold of some hightech insulation panel to try on the underside of the bed frame.

Excellent work!!! Thre craftsmanship looks terrific!

FWIW the condensation under the mattress can be reduced by placing several of those interlocked flooring tile things they sell in packs of 4 at camping shops for about $17-23 between the matress and the "deck". Used them last year for this purpose on a northern trip (quite humid) and quite "cold" in the morning": the condensation was negligible...

To reduce condensation inside the tent can be a bit tricky...ventilation is the key: a small quiet battery operated fan to keep air moving is all it takes...works well...plus a light weight fly over the tent to create an air gap also helps.
Good luck!

Hi,
very nice. More comments on your electrics, plumbing, etc would be eagerly read by many here I'm sure.
I'm curious about your lift on and off method and how it is locked down.
(mine is chains and a toggle, and I'm not convinced it is the most efficient way).

Re condensation under the bed, you can get this sort of underlay





from places like this.

cheers

Very cool setup

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the kind words.

Chucaro, No RTT required, the bed pulls out from the drivers side of the camper.

130 Man, Yep, foot holds to access the roof rack storage.

Hoges & Austastar, Thanks for the under bed tips, but there is no room to add anything under the foam mattress or else it will not fold & fit back in its hole. I have found a product Multipanel polyurethane sheet very light, 12mm thick & 2.5R value insulation. I'm just not sure if this fix requires insulation or air flow under the mattress?
Austastar, I use 4 x 1000kg rated over centre latch that are lockable to hold the camper to the tray. With over 25000K's on the camper so far we have had to problems with this style of hold down. The camper can be removed with jacking legs when needed, images coming.

As for the campers nut & bolts.
In the service box we have 2 x 120 Amp AGM FullRiver batteries, a 3 stage 20Amp Xantrax charger, a cheep 1200Watt 12/240 inverter, 11.3Lt/m Shurflow water pump & an over size domestic 5 micron water filter. There is an inlet port near the fridge motor with a HEPA filter on it that allows air past the fridge motor straight up & out through a marine non return cowl under the roof rack, at the same time hot air in the service box is also drawn out through a hole behind the fridge. This keeps all the vital electrical bits a little cooler.
All the electrics are controlled from the switch panel on the back wall of the bed room. The switches are all Blueseas circuit breaker type(no fusses to blow) that includes the 240 switches, this also acts as the main power controller at bed time or when packing the camper down. On the control board there is an LCD power monitor also from Blueseas that tells me how much 12volt power I have to play with also 12volt entering the system & 240volts entering as well how much drinking water is available. There is also a 240 power in point for when you need mains back up or generator power or when the camper is of the truck in idle mode. When mobile the batteries are charged via the duel battery under the tray of the truck, another AGM 120Amp.

The bed side, has the pull out Queen size bed that works very much like a RTT, pulls out, folds out. The canvas is sail tracked to the door & bunged to the bed frame when in use this forms the tent & folded back inside the door when no required. There is also a DVD player linked to an 26 inch LED TV for viewing the days images & videos(or a movie if its wet). The audio is surround sound & piped into the Kitchen area. All the lighting is strip LED cool white in varying lengths depending where they are located. There are 2 x 1200mm strips switched at the lights in the bed room area that makes for easy reading. The foam mattress is duel layer 80mm thick with removable cover.

Hot water is via a LPG 6Lt/m instantaneous batterie powered, flow fired unit attached to the back of the shower door. Inside is the shower rose that attaches to the main storage door to give hands free showering, also in this area is the filler for the 110Lt fresh water tank. At the rear of the roof rack is a free standing awning with walls for private showering when needed.

The main storage draw holds the plastic table & folding alloy chairs as well as tools extra parts, fuel, generator, chainsaw & recovery gear depending on the trip requirements.

Gas storage is for 1x 4Kg gas bottle, which works just fine for the 2 of us.

In the Kitchen there is a draw that has the domestic LPG cooktop as well as the sink with pullout chopping board, the sink has hot & cold water from the fold down mixer. The main food storage above the pullout cooktop is yet to be built. Beside the sink is the home made pull out fridge. It is of alloy construction using a Danfoss compressor & a digital controller with a volume of 80Lt. The Kitchen door also has 2 strip LED lights. To give a little shade there is a full length free standing awning above the Kitchen door with walls if the weather gets nasty.

I hope this explains a little about my camper.
I there are anything else feel free to ask.

Cheers
David

Fantastic workmanship. When do you start taking orders (not that I'm in the market).

Gary

Is the base of your bed solid ? because thats the problem , if you make it of mesh , or dill loads of holes you wont get condensation HTSH

Hi tacr2man

Now that sounds like an idea, the base of the bed is 2mm alloy sheet. I could drill holes to improve air flow under mattress, will this make sleeping cooler during the cold nights ?

Cheers
David