Around Australia Touring Defender Build

Hi Brett.. I've not ordered any large items from Ashcrofts so can't offer an opinion on importing. But I have been following several threads with intrest as I'd like to get the HD R380 box should I ever need one. I gather that it's possible to do it all yourself (almost) and save a lot of money or in some cases cost you a lot more than nessasary. For instance. I noted in one thread that it's best to refuse to use DHL as they add a lot of extra hidden charges. But TNT is reasonably good. And think about breaking the shipment up. Import costs may be higher than freight costs.
I'll follow this thread with intrest. Please post up how you go. At a quoted $8k you would be better to buy a spares car and just salvage it as needed!

Cheers
Nino

Hi Brett,

$8k sounds crazy to me, but at anything close to that, I would definitely go down the route of new boxes from Ashcrofts! Give them a call, they export all over the world and should be able to offer their experience. Although I've never purchased an item from them as large as a complete box, I have had them send me numerous LT/R380/diff rebuild kits, and their shipping costs and efficiency have always impressed.

I'm thinking while everything is stripped to replace my clutch plate. It's only done 50000km in 5 years but it might be worth doing now.

I'm trying to decide on the Valeo standard or HD clutch kit.. I'm leaning towards the HD kit. Anyone have any real world experience? I've searched around the forums and some say it makes the clutch pedal heavier others say no difference. Opinions?

When I had the R380 out of mine, I put in a HD clutch and new rear main seal. Peddle feels the same to me.

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Originally Posted by Presto

When I had the R380 out of mine, I put in a HD clutch and new rear main seal. Peddle feels the same to me.

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Thanks mate. I'll give the HD clutch a go then.

I run the valeo 130 clutch in my 110. Clutch pedal is light although I did replace master, slave, hose, throw-out bearing, clutch fork ie the whole lot.

Yeah I personally don't see the point in a 'HD' clutch in a defender unless you're having problems and towing.
The way I see it your clutch has done the last few hundred thousand fine, no point throwing even MORE cash down.

Just my opinion.

Can't comment on your particular gearbox and its rebuild costs, although $8k sounds very exxy, but I can confirm it recently cost me $4k to have my Disco's ZF auto rebuilt.
Surely there would be wreckers with good used gearboxes for your Defender around somewhere. I would be calling the major Land Rover businesses in SE Qld such as MR Automotive and British Offroad to see what they had 'out the back' if I were you.
A good used box given a thorough service would have to be an option, surely?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wicks89

Yeah I personally don't see the point in a 'HD' clutch in a defender unless you're having problems and towing.
The way I see it your clutch has done the last few hundred thousand fine, no point throwing even MORE cash down.

Just my opinion.

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Hi Wicks,

The reason why is that a clutch is a wear item. The clutch plate is friction material and the pressure plate has springs. These all wear and need replacing eventually. Might be worth while replacing this before a round Australia trip as you then know for sure that you have a lot of wear left. If your comment is just about the HD item rather than a standard one then ignore my comment :). However it would be fair to assume a fairly well loaded vehicle in this case and therefore heavier than a standard truck so HD might be worth it, again to ensure the happy completion of the whole trip without having to worry about it at all.

Cheers,

TimJ.

Unless you have been trying to smoke the tyres up off the line your driven clutch plate will have very little ware. Diesels have good torque down at low revs so you don't have to slip the clutch very much at all. I'd be surprised if your clutch was worn after the km you speak of after your last clutch change.

The weakness in the defender clutch system is in the arm that interfaces with the slave cylinder rod, the rod wears through the face of the arm.