Hi everyone, finally got around to doing something I always wanted to, fitting air springs to the rear axle of my 110 Firstly thanks to Bush65 for all the info provided in threads about Air Bag specs, Isuzurover for alot of other info, and many other AULRO members for their inspiration!
Spring mount pieces back from the Lazer cutter, (finger prints are mine though ) I'll post up the drawings of the parts later for anyone who wants them.
Cut out of 6mm steel:
I had to modify the piece that fits into the chassis spring mount to clear some welds I didn't notice when I measured everything up:
Axle mount in place to mark the position of the bottom air bag mount that needs to be drilled, (13mm):
Bottom air bag mount fitted, fastners are M10 x 20 counter sunk cap screws with nyloc nuts:
Threaded rod on the bottom of the air spring needs to be cut down to clear the axle tube:
Time to weld the top mount together, I used 32mm spacers, so the top mount total thickness is 44mm. I put a slight curve in the spacers to make fitting easier:
All welded together:
Spring in place:
Top bolted in:
I have to do the air system yet, I'm not sure how far I will go with this, but I have started with using a couple of schrader valves tucked up into the wheel well.
To get the car back up to standard height needed 45psi in the bags, the car seems to drive the same, but bumps are much less harsh. There is a paved section of road on the way home that is ususally a bit of a bone shaker, however the air springs have tamed it quite a bit!
Cheers,
Tim
Edit: I still need to make some bump stop extensions, I'll have to do some articulation tests, but I'm guessing they will have to be about 40mm.
Tim
Thanks for the detailed description and photos!
Out of interest with regards to attaching the bottom rolling sleeve to your new plate
Is there a reason you cant through drill the plate and then put a washer/nut on the under side? Although not huge loadings on the rolling sleeve I wouldnt think that threading a 1/2UNC into 6mm plate would not provide a huge amount of long term fixation?
Hi Steve, there isn't enough space between the mount and the axle to get a nut. Isuzurover has had his like this for many kilometers without a problem, but it's something I'll keep an eye on.
Hi Tim. this has been a very useful thread as I am in the process of doing this conversion to my TD5 130. One of the other posters questioned the fixing down of the base of the bellows to 6mm plate. Is there any reason I cannot use 8mm or even 10mm plate for the base plate, thus allowing more depth of thread to fix the bellows to the plate? Have you been happy with the conversion now you have had some time with it? Lastly, do you recall roughly how much your freight costs were. Thank you, Ross.
Thanks for the great tutorial Tim, I just finished putting mine in and followed your steps, but theres always something in a landy that slows u down. Firstly i couldnt get my shockies out - although i used a spanner on the bottom to hold it still it still moved. so we wrapped some rope around it and tensioned it with a bar. we welded a half inch nut to the base plate for extra grip too.
one thing i did find out at the end though was that Terra Firma big bore shockies don't work with this setup as they foul on the mounts. luckily i had some old ones in the shed.
i found that after a day one side had gone down so now i'm checking the air hose fittings. I mounted the valves in the rear cross member in the existing holes perfect fit.
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