Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: 110 Air Spring Conversion, (Rear axle)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,947
    Total Downloaded
    0

    110 Air Spring Conversion, (Rear axle)

    Hi everyone, finally got around to doing something I always wanted to, fitting air springs to the rear axle of my 110 Firstly thanks to Bush65 for all the info provided in threads about Air Bag specs, Isuzurover for alot of other info, and many other AULRO members for their inspiration!

    The Air Bags I used are Firestone 1T14C-7, purchased from here: W01-358-5426, Firestone Reversible Sleeve Air Spring, Firestone Air Bag 5426 - TruckSpring.com The bottom fitting and one of the top fittings are 1/2" UNC, the other top fitting is 3/4" UNF, the thread for the air inlet is 1/4" NPT.





    Spring mount pieces back from the Lazer cutter, (finger prints are mine though ) I'll post up the drawings of the parts later for anyone who wants them.
    Cut out of 6mm steel:



    I had to modify the piece that fits into the chassis spring mount to clear some welds I didn't notice when I measured everything up:



    Axle mount in place to mark the position of the bottom air bag mount that needs to be drilled, (13mm):





    Bottom air bag mount fitted, fastners are M10 x 20 counter sunk cap screws with nyloc nuts:



    Threaded rod on the bottom of the air spring needs to be cut down to clear the axle tube:



    Time to weld the top mount together, I used 32mm spacers, so the top mount total thickness is 44mm. I put a slight curve in the spacers to make fitting easier:



    All welded together:



    Spring in place:



    Top bolted in:



    I have to do the air system yet, I'm not sure how far I will go with this, but I have started with using a couple of schrader valves tucked up into the wheel well.

    To get the car back up to standard height needed 45psi in the bags, the car seems to drive the same, but bumps are much less harsh. There is a paved section of road on the way home that is ususally a bit of a bone shaker, however the air springs have tamed it quite a bit!

    Cheers,

    Tim

    Edit: I still need to make some bump stop extensions, I'll have to do some articulation tests, but I'm guessing they will have to be about 40mm.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    North Tambourine
    Posts
    716
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks TimNZ,
    The detailed images are a great help, please keep us updated.

    Cheers
    David

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,471
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Tim
    Thanks for the detailed description and photos!

    Out of interest with regards to attaching the bottom rolling sleeve to your new plate
    Is there a reason you cant through drill the plate and then put a washer/nut on the under side? Although not huge loadings on the rolling sleeve I wouldnt think that threading a 1/2UNC into 6mm plate would not provide a huge amount of long term fixation?

    Steve

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,947
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Steve, there isn't enough space between the mount and the axle to get a nut. Isuzurover has had his like this for many kilometers without a problem, but it's something I'll keep an eye on.

    Cheers,

    Tim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,471
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Fair enough!
    Ben has given his a hiding so copying his setup should be good eh
    Enjoy!
    S

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1,947
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Drawings for the mount parts:



    Cheers,

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Northern Hunter Valley,Dungog Shire
    Posts
    478
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Tim. this has been a very useful thread as I am in the process of doing this conversion to my TD5 130. One of the other posters questioned the fixing down of the base of the bellows to 6mm plate. Is there any reason I cannot use 8mm or even 10mm plate for the base plate, thus allowing more depth of thread to fix the bellows to the plate? Have you been happy with the conversion now you have had some time with it? Lastly, do you recall roughly how much your freight costs were. Thank you, Ross.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern NSW
    Posts
    236
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Finally got around to getting mine in today.

    Once happy with the setup, will tidy things up and powdercoat.

    Thanks Tim for the instructions and drawings and to the multitude of other info out there on the subject.

    Tod.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Murwillumbah, NSW
    Posts
    71
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the great tutorial Tim, I just finished putting mine in and followed your steps, but theres always something in a landy that slows u down. Firstly i couldnt get my shockies out - although i used a spanner on the bottom to hold it still it still moved. so we wrapped some rope around it and tensioned it with a bar. we welded a half inch nut to the base plate for extra grip too.

    one thing i did find out at the end though was that Terra Firma big bore shockies don't work with this setup as they foul on the mounts. luckily i had some old ones in the shed.

    i found that after a day one side had gone down so now i'm checking the air hose fittings. I mounted the valves in the rear cross member in the existing holes perfect fit.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Posts
    66
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Great informative information

    watching this post with interest

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!