My A/C man said the Td5 factory underdash unit is 11000 BTU CFM not knownQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
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My A/C man said the Td5 factory underdash unit is 11000 BTU CFM not knownQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
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I'm afraid progress has slowed a little simply due to time restraints. The progress that has been made is pretty boring, being just wiring.
The first thing was to extend the wiring from the evaporator to reach the front mounted controls.
Fairly straight forward. I almost had the right colours - green becomes yellow (for the compressor solenoid):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/10/1487.jpg
The earth wire to the controls was originally separate and there was a spare socket in the plugs so I couldn't see any reason why it couldn't be included.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/10/1488.jpg
The earth wire from the controls bolted to the rear mount. I will running an earth wire from here to the chassis:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/10/1489.jpg
Now the tricky bit (for me anyway). I've placed two relays in the battery box (actually the relays from the original A/C system).
The first is for the compressor solenoid. My local A/C place which is completing the installation told me to just run "a wire" into the engine bay. I am going to assume they will activate both the compressor solenoid and the condenser fan off this wire. However, the relay is the type with two 87 terminals so the option is there to run two separate wires.
The second relay I am using to activate 12 volt power to the evaporator/fan power switch when the ignition is "on" (so the A/C can't be switch on when the engine is off). As to where exactly I'm getting the activation from right at this point isn't clear to me. I'm thinking I need to tap into one of the white wires that is the ignition switch side of the fuses for things such as the gauges, tail/reverse lights, etc. I'm really trying to avoid going up behind the dash because I'm very over feed wiring through there :mad:. Any advice or opinions will be gratefully received.
The 12V power to both relays is taken directly from the main battery (through fuses of course). Yes, I earthed the relays where the bracket bolts to the battery box, but this is just the earth for the activation of the relays, so only a small amount current. Please do tell if this isn't sufficient. I'm earthing the evaporator on the chassis where the batteries earth and the gearbox cross member bolts on, just outside the battery box
The relays and fuse box in the battery box:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/10/1490.jpg
Before I sign off, special mention goes to goingbush for completing his TD5 A/C installation today, in as little as a week and a half (!), with better than expected results. I'm more inspired now :cool:.
James.
Not being familiar with the Tdi electrics I cant help specifically but you are doing everything correctly, anyQuote:
Originally Posted by rainman
+12v IGN source will do, the energiser coil of the relay wont add any load to the system.
All looking good.Quote:
The 12V power to both relays is taken directly from the main battery (through fuses of course). Yes, I earthed the relays where the bracket bolts to the battery box, but this is just the earth for the activation of the relays, so only a small amount current. Please do tell if this isn't sufficient. I'm earthing the evaporator on the chassis where the batteries earth and the gearbox cross member bolts on, just outside the battery box
Dont forget about putting a High Pressure cut off switch in series with the compressor clutch, Worth asking your A/C guy about it, but he probably has that covered .
Great work !!
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Would this be what the wiring and plug hanging off the top of the receiver drier is?Quote:
Originally Posted by goingbush
James.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman
Exactly, that is the pressure cut off switch.
on the factory Td5 A/C its hidden under the Evaporator,
hey rainman.....install completed yet?
Hi. Sorry everyone. Lots of "challenges"/things going on. Life........
Progress with the A/C is being made however. The Defender is, today, at the A/C place having the plumbing done. They say they'll need it for a few days, but I'll be sure to report back with photos and test results ASAP :cool:.
James.
flexible hose or pipe?
Ah yes. I did quiz him about that. It will be flexible hose like in goingbush's installation. Apparently that's all they use these days because the time and therefore the cost of bending up metal tubing is too prohibitive these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by weeds
James.
I'm really sorry things have quietened down in this thread. I've had a lot going on, and my camera has been playing up so I don't have many pictures to add.
Anyway, the system was plumbed and gassed up last week by Mr Cool at Milton in Brisbane. My compressor, condenser, and thermofan were fine. The performance is perhaps not quite as impressive as goingbush's but still more than satisfactory :cool:.
A couple of tests I have done:
Car parked in sun for 1 hour; internal temp 32 degrees; A/C turned on to fan speed 2 and temp rheostat set at about 65%. After 5 minutes internal temp was 26 degrees.
Car driven out of garage and A/C turned on to fan speed 2 and temp 65%; outside air temp 34 degrees. After 10 mins of driving interior temp was 20 degrees.
So, the system is working and fully usable, despite the ducting not being in place. In fact, the air from the unit seems to be directed very much upwards towards the roof so the front passengers don't get a cold neck like I expected. The air hits the windscreen and falls downwards from there so you really only feel it on your legs. I have, however, begun fabricating the ducting so will post up pictures soon (when I can take some decent ones).
The cost of the system to date:
Evaporator with control and mounting bracket - $495
Installation/plumbing/engine bay wiring, incl new receiver/drier - $1016
Bearing for bottom idler pulley - $5
Wiring, split tubing, connectors, etc - approx $20
Total - $1536
Estimate of my time is 6-7 hours.
I guess this is on par with goingbush's installation taking into account the fact that he did a lot more of the work himself. I could have knocked about $200 off the price of the evaporator by purchasing it online, but decided to do the right thing my Mr Cool and purchase through them. At least this way any potential warranty issue should be easier to address too.
A few shots of the hoses inside the cab....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/10/274.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/10/275.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/10/276.jpg
James.