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Thread: Aftermarket A/C - Td5 110 Wagon

  1. #1
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    Aftermarket A/C - Td5 110 Wagon

    Not to hijack Rainmans thread but in conjunction with & so not as to confuse anybody I'm starting a new thread of the Aftermarket install to my 110, inspired by James project.


    I'm using a 22500 BTU, 390 cfm "underdash' Evaporator from ebay the same as this
    eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

    Here are some pics of the actual Evaporator which I'll be mounting under the roof in the back.






    Above photo I'm testing the fans & working out the wiring, The Red wire is +ve, Neg to the earth lugs,(as per the bit of solder for a temp test, bad form - I know) Green wire goes to the A/C compressor relay.
    Luckily The A/C Fan switch & Temp switch can easily be remotely mounted.

    I went to KAR AIR in Ferntree Gully for advice about the install and Manager, Andy was very helpful, He said the Compressor on the Td5 was well up to the job and tho the existing condensor might be a little small it will be worth trying first before going to unnecassary expense of upgrading it, which could just as easily be done later.

    A very obliging attitude in my opinion.

    I was also advised to wire the Condensor fan to come on with the compressor (via a relay) and not via its own thermostat, it will help cooling A LOT.

    Andy was happy to sell me the hoses so that I could do all the mounting, ductwork, electrical wiring and pipework, and I'll return later for him to fit the connectors, plumb it up & gas the system,

    5 meters No10 hose & 5 meters No6 hose = $187.00
    Good quality hose too !!






    Im going to modify my Milford Cargo barrier so that the front of the Evaporator will sit through a hole in it. A couple of nutserts into the rear roof crossbar to hold the rear of the unit.

    crude artists impression below


    I have to act in a hurry here because I just got my liquid air bill for migsheild
    which I'm not renewing so I have get off my butt before they reposess the cylinder. I think I'll also build a roof console to duct the air from the inner 2 vents forward & use a couple of downward eyeball vents.

    The A/C Evap looks big but still will not even be visible in the rear view mirror.

    ...Don



    .

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    Great stuff Don. I'm looking forward to seeing your ideas and comparing performance once we're finished . I'm hoping my 18000 BTU unit in a dual cab will be about as effective as your 22500 BTU unit in a wagon.

    Thanks for the info on the wiring. I was told mine would come with "instructions" but there was nothing. I'm guessing the green wire is for the compressor relay, but haven't confirmed yet. Also, does yours have a dedicated earth wire? Mine just earths to the bolt for the rear mounting bracket, which concerns me slightly. I'm considering running it down to a proper earth in the battery box for peace of mind, but electrics aren't my strong point so I don't know if it's necessary.


    James.

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    Hey James, thanks for your support.
    Also no instructions in mine,
    Bit of diagnosing with the Multimeter I worked it out.

    Yes, there is no Neg / Earth wire, You have to run an earth, or better still a wire back to Battery Neg from the Black motor wire which terminates on the rear mounting lug.

    I'm going to wire mine up as thus


    Im adding a master switch as I dont trust the A/C rheostat as mine dosent have a distinct off click /position.

    Also the 2 Power Diodes on the Condensor Fan, I might be wrong but I think the Fan is originally wired via a distinct thermostat independant of the A/C, The Fan sometimes comes on for extra cooling regardless if the factory A/C in on or not. So the diodes will still allow this function without backfeeding into the other circuit (which may or may not be an issue) The Fan will come on whenever the compressor is pumping.

    Unfortunately I had to work today & tomorrow so didnt get to work on my project but did manage to buy some 20mm steel RHS to modify my Cargo barrier.

  4. #4
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    Your wiring diagram is a massive help to me Don . As I've said, electrics aren't my strong point, but you've made it very clear.

    James.

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    Milford cargo barrier on operating table


    Past the point of no return


    All painted up & mesh cut out. Mounting tabs added


    It is a big sucker, might not need the Engel any more !!

  6. #6
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    Ok got a hour or so in today,

    Since my AC unit was intended as "Underdash" I had to remove the control switches so that I can mount them either on my dash somwhere or on the roof console. (Also - Looking as the size of the Evaporator I'm not sure what vehicle you could actually mount it under dash)



    Actually, I'm going to have to think a bit more about the wiring. In a Td5 the AC talks to the ECU , I'm not sure why it does, or why it would need to, other than to keep the idling speed at 800 rpm when the compressor cuts in, but I think that would happen regardless. but my Nanocom does register an AC fault .

    If I wired it up according to my diagram in the previous post, and bypass the existing electrics I'd want to disable / delete the A/C in the ecu via Nanocom.

    To keep the existing AC electronics , fuses and Relay I'm going to have to dismantle the original AC and graft its temp sensor to the new Evaporator, and use the existing fan switch and temp control so long as its compatible with the new fan motor, which it should be.

    Images below of mounted Evaporator




    Couple of M8 nutserts into the conveniently placed roof bow hold the rear locating supports.


    The plumbing in the pic is the condensate drain tube.

    I'll buy some Electrical cable glands from Middys tomorrow and hope to get the hoses plumbed in. Glands are the safest way to pass a cable or hose thru the floor and have a waterproof seal that securely & safely holds the hose without ever worrying about the metal cutting thru a grommet or hose itself.

    In the meantime I'm going to start pulling out the existing under dash evaporator, I dont think it will be fun.

  7. #7
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    Pulling out the Td5 A/C was very easy. I read somewhere on here that it was a awful job. only 3 screws on each side , one in the middle and undo the R1234a coupling. (after you had it drained at a A/C gas recycler - I didnt and I feel slightly ill now - hope its not poisonous)

    Amazing how much real-estate you get back, The 110 seems almost cavernous now.



    Heres a photo of the old evaporator, covered in a sticky goop, imagine how cold the passengers knees would have got if it was clean. I dare say this is typical of a 110 A/C, what a stupid design that sucks crud straight off the passenger floor. Not one of Landrovers smartest ideas.



    Also the standard wiring looks compatible with the new system, only thing missing is a pressure switch, which probably is needed, I found this about it, Air Conditioning Pressure Switch. The Td5 A/C pressure switch is under the evaporator, it can go anywhere in the high pressure line so I'll get one added in a convenient place in the line when the A/C guy fits off the plumbing.


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    You need an AC on feed to go into Cavity 3 of the brown connector in the fuse compartment in front of the gear lever, this will tell the ECM the AC is on. The ECU will then provide an earth for the Compressor Clutch relay (if present).

    See PM. I have some old notes from when the Red Dot was installed on my td5 Defender which I can email if your interested.

    Tim

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    A bit of thought went needed about where to drill the holes for the plumbing, Also need to check whats underneath so you don't drill into anything important like fuel tank / lines or thru floor support brackets.

    Cable glands are waterproof / dustproof but need to be spread about so at not to compromise structural integrity of the floor, especially since I put mine just behind the rear seat support.







    I thought about running the condensate drain into my water tank but thought better of it and it runs out onto the floor


    Decided to run the the A/C hoses along the outside of the chassis rather than inside so as to keep them clear of exhaust heat and so they don't get in the way of any gearbox removal procedures etc.

    Problem is they are more vulnerable to damage so I had some spare Caravan Sullage hose lying about. The sullage hose is tough as nails, it easily slips over the thinner high pressure hose but has to be split and spread over the Low pressure hose.

    Temp cable ties but will fix with p clamps


    Caravan Sullage hose

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    Very nice. Also watching with keen interest. One of my main concerns is the required BTU of the unit for (in my case) a dual cab ute. Raiman has found a 18,000BTU cooling only unit. The same brand has nother one which is has a cooling and heating function but I think it was 12 or 14K BTU ? If it was suffucent to get a good cool cabin then the heating aspect might be handy for trips south or west (in winter).
    Being Qld though the cooling part defintely has to be up to scratch !
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


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