Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 48

Thread: Detachable camp body build for 130....

  1. 19th April 2013, 10:57 PM #31
    Sitec's Avatar
    Sitec
    Sitec is offline YarnMaster Subscriber
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
    Posts
    3,451
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi steveG.
    The tray is 1600mm front to rear and 1850mm from left to right. Now the dust can settle and we are packed ready to roll, I'll put pen to paper and draw the leg setup. Easy to describe tho... Inner leg is a piece of 45 x 45 RHS with a foot welded on the bottom and a piece of 12mm plate cut to fit inside the RHS. Firstly I drilled and tapped it to M16 and also welded a captive nut under it before welding it in to the top of the RHS. This gave me about 25mm of thread.
    The outer leg is a piece of 50mm x 50mm RHS also with a piece of 12mm plate welded into the top of it having pre drilled it to 16.5mm.
    The jacking part is a piece of M16 threaded bar which I left @ 1000mm. This had a nut spun down and welded in place about 50mm down, and a washer dropped on. It is then inserted into the outer leg until the thread protrudes from the top, another washer fitted and a nut spun on but NOT tightened. With a bit of measuring, you can get the top nut to finish flush with the top of the threaded rod... I then locked the top nut to the threaded rod using a 6mm x 25mm roll pin....
    Drop the outer leg with newly fitted threaded rod onto the inner leg. Rotate the top nut until the hole is found in the lower leg. Once threaded, spin the top nut at speed (I use a 24mm socket in the cordless drill), and you now have an adjustable leg... 3 more to make then!!
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 21st April 2013, 06:37 AM #32
    roverrescue's Avatar
    roverrescue
    roverrescue is offline YarnMaster Supporter
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sitec,
    Im thinking you just used HT M16 thread rod?
    It will be interesting to see how well metric threads hold up to longitudinal loads which I imagine are not insignificant?
    How easily could your source some ACME threaded rod?

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 23rd April 2013, 12:14 PM #33
    Sitec's Avatar
    Sitec
    Sitec is offline YarnMaster Subscriber
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
    Posts
    3,451
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Funny you should mention thread... Now the box is loaded the M16 course thread struggles! Prob going to change it for fine M18 when home... Anyway, here it is loaded and stopped for our first nite just this side of Echuca in Vic.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 23rd April 2013, 12:17 PM #34
    Sitec's Avatar
    Sitec
    Sitec is offline YarnMaster Subscriber
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
    Posts
    3,451
    Total Downloaded
    0
    And at Bonny Doon! 'Ah, the serenity'
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 23rd April 2013, 12:20 PM #35
    Sitec's Avatar
    Sitec
    Sitec is offline YarnMaster Subscriber
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
    Posts
    3,451
    Total Downloaded
    0
    And with SWIMBO, set up at Pickerings Campground near the Howqua River. The drive up to Craig's Hut in the thick fog was interesting!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 23rd April 2013, 01:58 PM #36
    iClick's Avatar
    iClick
    iClick is offline Master Supporter
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    330
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Looks great - Just like a bought one

    Thanks for the info on the legs. Interesting comments about thread coarseness. I had been wondering how much torque would be needed to lift the weight of the camper without gearing. Does your drill manage to lift he camper or does it need some help?

    One other thing, does the tent/canopy feel stable when it's on the legs and you enter the tent? My wife was concerned that without the canopy being attached to the truck it may over balance?
    '11 Def 130 "Henry"
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 23rd April 2013, 02:50 PM #37
    Sitec's Avatar
    Sitec
    Sitec is offline YarnMaster Subscriber
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
    Posts
    3,451
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yeah, the drill manages it but just!! As for balance, mine seems ok, as the roof tent ladder holds half your weight when you are up there. I would still make sure the real legs are mounted right at the back. I also have a pair of 285's on home made swing aways swung off the rear!
    Back too 'no service' in the High Country for a few days so will post more when home!
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 23rd April 2013, 03:46 PM #38
    roverrescue's Avatar
    roverrescue
    roverrescue is offline YarnMaster Supporter
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Rather than M18

    A length of ACME like this

    ALLTHREAD ACME PLN 12FTX7/8-6TPI (0667 5346) | Blackwoods

    12 foot length should nearly do all four legs would it not????

    ACME will take the longitudinal loads mucher betterer than a metric thread of any dimension - it is what they are made for!

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 25th April 2013, 05:37 PM #39
    bent's Avatar
    bent
    bent is offline Fossicker Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane, South of the River
    Posts
    96
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Howdy

    I made wind up legs for a service body in the same fashion as yours....had the same problems when the load was applied. I bined them and remade them with ACME rod, no further problems.

    Nice work by the way.

    Cheers

    Ben
    Cheers

    Ben

    Defender 110
    Series 2A 1968 SWB
    Dog - known as....Landy!
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  10. 25th April 2013, 06:48 PM #40
    Ranga's Avatar
    Ranga
    Ranga is offline Moderator
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Scarborough, QLD
    Posts
    3,315
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have a slide-on camper similar to yours, except made by Aluminium Ute Canopies - Ute Accessories - Slideon Campers - Alloy Ute Canopies - Steel Ute Canopies - Service Bodies (how they could call themselves that is beyond me!).

    The legs work in the same way as yours I believe. However, they pull out away from the body about a foot or so:


    Do you have any issues manoeuvring the vehicle in and out from under the canopy when having the legs so close to the side of the vehicle?
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
« Does anyone have a broken D2 door lock I can experiment with? | Sensational D2 Drivers Door Lock Replacement »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!