Buggered if I can find the invoice.....I brought a bunch of stuff at the time, a stab in the dark $500 ishQuote:
Originally Posted by Brad110
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Buggered if I can find the invoice.....I brought a bunch of stuff at the time, a stab in the dark $500 ishQuote:
Originally Posted by Brad110
These systems are great, I’ve setup a couple of heavy boat trailers with elec/hyd.
One thing to keep in mind – they really like a good power supply. The Hydrastar units used to specify providing the power source via pin#2 in the standard 7pin plug (they need constant power and the signal wire from the brake controller). This proved to quite poor, resulting in delayed performance. Swapped them over to get their power from Andersen plug with 8mm2 wire (& Earth) and they are much better. The signal from the controller (pin#5) is only used as a switch signal and carries very little load – unlike caravan drums.
Personally I prefer the feel of caravan elec drums, the elec/hyd have a slight delay as hyd pressure builds, this delay was really bad before the power supply was upgraded, It’s much better now but the delay is still noticeable when you get a red light (we are talking 2.6-3t). I would also assume the actuators have improved on the ones we have.
However, I prefer the reliability of hyd disks - they don't need adjusting every x kms, they also get rid of the dust and heat.
Hey Harlie
My actuator is being mounted right next to my trailer batteries 2 x 100amp/hrs
The only bit I need see is if the the wire from the controller is big enough......it looks a little light on to me ( the previous owner install it)
Mate, don’t worry about the wire from the controller, in these installs it is only a switch signal (very different to elec drums) - imagine a relay for pair of 100w spot lights, the load on the switch wire (86) is couple milliamp, load on power supply (30) is about 18amp. Same situation, the controller is just providing a signal that tells the actuator how much pressure to generate - it doesn't provide the power used to generate it.
However – make sure your controller is compatible with hydraulic actuators. For example, the original Tekonsha Prodigy (now referred to as P2) is not, but the newer P3 is (only if you select “Hydraulic Mode”). The newer (accelerometer based) units send a test signal to the brakes, this signal is not good for the actuator (it continually tries to start), and selecting Hydraulic mode disables the test. (sound like the LED tail light issue on newer LRs?). Most of the older Pendulum based and the constant controllers are ok.
If you have it near your batteries, give the power supply & earth 6mm2 wire and it will give great performance. Just need to provide charge to the batteries, which I assume you already have.
yeah batteries are charged via anderson plug from the defender
Just measure all the pipe lengths you need and take all your bits into a brake specialist, they should have all the fittings and connections you need and be able to make up pipes for you, this is not expensive and is much better than stuffing around with old car brake lines trying to get suitable lengths and fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by weeds
found the bits, this guy was very helpfull Wide Bay Brakehose Service Online ShopQuote:
Originally Posted by weeds
2 x BQ48 is the adaptor
2 x BQ5555 are the tube nuts
Weeds,
I imagine getting an adaptor from 1/8NPT to double flare brake line will be just as easily sourced from the brake place that you get your brake tube from.
On the to;pic of hard line - I know that a camper isnt a boat trailer, but if you can find it they do make an ADR appropriate brake line that is something like silicon bronze or some such.
Copper I believe does not meet specs, stainless is evil to work with, steel on boat trailers lasts but a few seasons.
I bought a 25m roll of the stuff for the last boat trailer I did and it is easy to use and corrosion proof.
I will be using it again on the chassis build.
anyways -
Steve
yes but i brought online the online shop closed md way through my transaction with themQuote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
what i need it on its way so all good.
slight update....sorry no pics
i have finished the passenger side so it onto the the drivers side.....
geez i wish they supplied new split pins when you buy rear brakes......i didn't by L/R ones consider they are just the trailer brakes, i'm originals come with new pins
i also had to shorthen the brake caliper bolts...buggered if i know why
i have made the left brake line and fitted it....
hopefully its all smooth sailing from here on