Camper trailer electric over hydraulic upgrade

Woohoo......the brakes are working, well static test in the garage. Will leave the handbrake valve on overnight just to make sure there are no leaks.

Just need to sort out the wire from the trailer plug to the actuator.

I found a narva 50amp push button switch for the handbrake.

Umm......I don't seem to be able to upload pics using tapatalk....grrrrr

well the overnight test went well........

just got back from a week away and the brakes performed above my expectations.........not hard as i haven't really towed a braked trailer before so i don't have much to go on

it surprised me just how smooth the brakes come on and off

the set up instruction for the P3 indicates i should be able lock the wheels up at 30mph (from memory)...i couldn't achieve this, maybe i need to bleed the brakes again or maybe its just the size of the rotors and calipers......the P3 is set on 9 with boost 1....the brakes on the defender can have a rest

oh i see i didn't mention that i needed to upgrade the controller, umm even with the P3 fitted it didn't recognise until i sorted out the break away wire. i didn't order the brake away unit with the actuator so i assume it didn't need to be connected to anything as the instructions didn't mention what to do with it. ended up working out it needed to go to earth.....now that i look back i wonder if my original controller would have worked although there is conflicting info on the web. i sold the other controller for what i brought it for so the P3 is staying as it has way more functions.....

the hydraulic handbrake is a pearler, i'm soooo glad i went to the trouble...........great for unhitching, the best part is the trailer no longer rocks around at night time:wub::wub:

just have to sort our securing the brake lines.......cable ties probably wont cut it long term:eek:

i just need to find some dirt roads to see how the brakes perform

sooo there you go, a 1200kg trailer performs a lot better with brakes fitted

Would be interested to know what it cost you all up to put this set up in?

Skiboy

I'm surprised you can't get the brakes to lock up, my camper trailer weighs about the same as yours, will lock up easily on bitumen using the controller slide. Is your actuator a disc brake model? Mine is the Dexter unit and they have two models- one for drums that supplies 1000psi max, and the disc brake model that supplies up to 1600psi. Also mine has RR front discs and calipers, I guess the 4-piston calipers is where the big difference is. I find I generally have the P3 set at around 6, also I've found the second boost setting seems to give the best feel.
The park-brake valve sounds like a great idea, I'll have to look into retrofitting one to my setup.

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Originally Posted by POD

I'm surprised you can't get the brakes to lock up, my camper trailer weighs about the same as yours, will lock up easily on bitumen using the controller slide. Is your actuator a disc brake model? Mine is the Dexter unit and they have two models- one for drums that supplies 1000psi max, and the disc brake model that supplies up to 1600psi. Also mine has RR front discs and calipers, I guess the 4-piston calipers is where the big difference is. I find I generally have the P3 set at around 6, also I've found the second boost setting seems to give the best feel.
The park-brake valve sounds like a great idea, I'll have to look into retrofitting one to my setup.

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Pretty sure mine is rated at 1500psi........might bleed it again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skiboy

Would be interested to know what it cost you all up to put this set up in?

Skiboy

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I didn't keep all the costs

At a wild guess $700

Axle was free
Stubs, hubs and calipers one cartoon of beer
Actuator $500 maybe
P3 $230
Discs, pads, brake line fittings $150

Umm that's $880..... Let's round it up to $1000

G'day Weeds. Just wondering how does the park brake valve work. Does the trailer still have to be connected electrically to the tow vehicle while its activated? Or does the valve just force fluid back to activate the pads.?

I've got a camper with hydraulic override discs and I'm thinking of going down this route the same as you have. did you get the brakes sorted in the end, to lock up at 30mph.

Mick

I think you have to close the valve over when you are applying the brakes.

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Originally Posted by Cracka

G'day Weeds. Just wondering how does the park brake valve work. Does the trailer still have to be connected electrically to the tow vehicle while its activated? Or does the valve just force fluid back to activate the pads.?

I've got a camper with hydraulic override discs and I'm thinking of going down this route the same as you have. did you get the brakes sorted in the end, to lock up at 30mph.

Mick

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Re: park brake, no need for it to be hooked to the car as you are using your trailer battery. using the manual push button you apply the brakes and while holding your finger on the button the turn the valve which holds the pressure on the pads. The handbrake has been on for four weeks now and it's still rock solid.

I haven't revisited the lock up bit.......they are working great although the controller is adjusted a little higher. Will look at it again the week before I next use the trailer

Give ya a yell if you need any more info

Thanks for the reply Weeds, so it is connected to the trailer battery, uhuh, nice and simple to operate. I did wonder what the black button was.....

I have to do a bit of research now and see what the difference is between your style unit, Hydrastar I'm assuming and the Alko units.

I may have more questions :D

Thanks mate