ZF S5-42 to LT 230.

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Originally Posted by Sitec

With the transfer box in place in its std form, the ZF output shaft just slides into the LT input gear and falls just short of the LR splines. The only other way I could see to do it easily would be to source a flat type output flange for the ZF, and one of those Rakeway input flanges for the LT... but I think that'd still put it at the same distance as you have now... :)

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What about a spud shaft

With that engine Mick, drive would not be the issue, as a huge cooling fan would push the whole thing along.... It'd be seating, fuel tank location... and generally everything else!!! :D

slug_burner, the spud shaft idea has been tried, and without the bolt up the center, the ZF box is not reliable as the original output/drive flange is what holds it together... and with a bolt up the center, there is no where to bolt it to... I did try a drill bit against the output shaft... Lots of squealing, one blunt drill and not a mark on the shaft... Even if I could drill and tap a hole, Im not too happy with the size of the LT230's input shaft let alone with an M12 hole drilled up the guts of it. At least with the idea Im going with it should be strong, and granted the props and other components of the LT230 are the weak link (not going to start that discussion again), but they are available and replaceable.. Spud shafts are not (and neither is my top gear, but the guy who's going to make me a new one in the New Yr is happy to stand by it/his work knowing what's in front of it)!!

i use the spud shaft method, its longer than Simons method but the spud shaft could be changed in about an hour.
If i made the spud shaft captive I believe it will be as reliable as simons method (its had 3k miles of hammering before the main gearbox gave up)

my thoughts to make the shortest and most reliable version would be to make the main shaft of the ZF so that it has an LT230 end already on it and then just left with needing a way to stop end float in the gearbox... when i have the two knackered gearboxes apart ill come up an alternative plan.

Does it matter that the spud shaft floats, as long as the shaft has the appropriate shoulders to locate it?
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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Does it matter that the spud shaft floats, as long as the shaft has the appropriate shoulders to locate it?
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mine currently floats which i believe allowed endfloat in the gearbox gears which is the most likely cause for the premature failure... will investigate further soon

Here's a pic of the slightly modified cover plate on the side of the transfer case.... Yup, its that close to the gearbox. There's about 2mm when its bolted up.. (That's after a little bit was removed from the gearbox with a flap disk!).

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Originally Posted by Sitec

I did try a drill bit against the output shaft... Lots of squealing, one blunt drill and not a mark on the shaft.

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Without knocking your ability, that sounds like the end result any time farmers are allowed to play with power tools...

It's bad enough when they're let loose with spanners, some of the end results I've seen with welders etc are even worse!!!

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Originally Posted by Sitec

Here's a pic of the slightly modified cover plate on the side of the transfer case.... Yup, its that close to the gearbox. There's about 2mm when its bolted up.. (That's after a little bit was removed from the gearbox with a flap disk!).

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spot on mate i need to do that to mine when i fit the new box... might have a go at making it closer coupled! keep up the good work!

Yeah. I still have the paper templates to make my plate.. The transfer case is set up to be exactly as it was behind a LR box.. Wanted to keep it as low as poss because of the prop angles. I'm having the gear welded but he's going to make me a new one piece gear to suit 1.222:1 using 50mm taper rollers instead of the 2" ones used now. That way it'll match the seal dia in the ZF box. :)

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Originally Posted by Sitec

Yeah. I still have the paper templates to make my plate.. The transfer case is set up to be exactly as it was behind a LR box.. Wanted to keep it as low as poss because of the prop angles. I'm having the gear welded but he's going to make me a new one piece gear to suit 1.222:1 using 50mm taper rollers instead of the 2" ones used now. That way it'll match the seal dia in the ZF box. :)

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if you have the templates and measurements ill try and get them made in 3d CAD :)
1.2? you worried the cummins wont pull 1.003? lol 50mm taper bearings makes sense if you can get them easy enough.