130 Station Wagon with side fold pop top build

On with the roof. I taped over the windscreen seal and then propped up the frame. Put various beads of Sikaflex 11FC along the front edge of the windscreen and clamped the front down. Of course Sikflex went everywhere and attached to things it shouldn't. It didn't line up as quite as good as before initially, as I now had the super thick under windscreen seal in and still had the windscreen bolts done up tight. Then I put heaps on antisieze on all bolts and tightened it all up, using some ratchet straps to pull the sides to where they should be.

Next I bolted in the two additional supports for the sides of the hardtop. It appears to me that the main weight of the roof etc is supported by the rubber seal under the hardtop sides, with the 5 bolts per side just keeping it in place.

Then I riveted in the galvanised angle that goes in the arch above the rear door, and sealed it with Sikaflex. The roof and channel are aligned, it is just the angle of the photo that makes it look a bit out.

I am always amazed at the number of tools and bits needed to do a simple job like this?!?

Somewhere here I also managed to finally clean up and paint the bracket to locate the rear tub. I sliced out a semicircle where the jack slot is. Land Rover for some reason welded up these holes on the 130s of this vintage? At this stage I think I'll use a step drill from the front to drill out this hole. I'm planning on painting the chassis bolt heads black too.

Next was the fuel filler cover. I cut out the lid of the rear under seat box and added the LR fuel filler cover. The Series 3 had had a battery tray under here. It was very bodgily sliced out. So I made a cover plate out of some spare Aluminium and cut a hole for a filler. When I was packing up I realised I had forgotten about the breather hole. I am using two standard 300tdi filler hoses as the filler cap opening is now a bit higher than on a standard defender.

I also patched the front hole on the right side where the spare wheel tray had been on the Series 3. Bending the edges and riveting horizontally, then adding a plate riveted over the top. This is all going to be covered so didn't spend too long getting it neat.

Next up was the rear windows with new seals (302177, 306287, DBF500040 and 302178). The little rear ones next to the rear door weren't too bad. I put the seal in first chopping it about 15mm too long, then the window. Getting the filler strip in was PITA. There is a special tool, which I didn't have, so I used a blunt screwdriver. The side windows I put the seal on the glass first, then with a thin cable wrapped around the seal, and my lovely wife pushing the window from the inside, we shoved, and gently pulled the seal from the inside out. They are a tight fit! Then gentle thumping on the glass and it popped slowly into position. I managed to put 3 scratches in the new paint when I slipped with the screw driver during this process.

Then I bolted in the new seat belt brackets (ADU710110 and ADU710100). Two bolts up into the threaded stainless angle in the box section, and one bolt half way down the side.

Then onto the rear lights. As in a previous post I had to get series rear lights - STC5524 indicator, and STC5523 stop/tail, and I also got new L691 lenses for the retro reversing lights. The chrome on the 38 year old reversing lights came up great with a green kitchen scourer. I also attached the old school LR badge. I was going to sand and paint it, but I think it looks much better weathered. The whole thing looks awesome now combined with the gal capping. Then I put some bluetack on the number plate and light to work out the best location.

I fitted the rear door thanks to Matt (madoffroader) - thanks. With a new rear door seal CKE500130, and lower rear sealing strip ALR4770 and stainless hinge pin kit DA1145. The door is the 456 savarin white which is more red/brown than the yellowy suzuki white. I got get thing finished so I can get it dirty!

I also fitted new mudflaps - LRO32965, and LRO32966.

Here are some photos. Looks like a car now. Just need this cyclone to bugger off, then I can finish off the fibreglass roof.

Fantastic work. :BigThumb: I love seeing these builds.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by danialan

I also got new L691 lenses for the retro reversing lights. .

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G'day danialan, I have been following your build quite closely, I am loving your work.
Where did you get the lenses for the reversing lights? I have been informed that they were no longer available, I need some for my SIII.

Cheers, Mick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Killer

G'day danialan, I have been following your build quite closely, I am loving your work.
Where did you get the lenses for the reversing lights? I have been informed that they were no longer available, I need some for my SIII.

Cheers, Mick.

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Hey Mick, thanks mate. Yes I was told that about the lenses too, but it is simply not true.

I got mine from here as I wanted the lens and seal - Lucas L691/692 - spare lens (clear)

But as an example you can also get:-
New old stock Lucas complete lamps- Lucas L691 or 692 Lamp, Clear, Amber or Red, NOS | Rogers Motors
Reproduction complete lamps - L691 LUCAS REVERSE - Classic &AMP Vintage Car Parts from SVC - The Best Prices
You can also get the lens from lots of other suppliers just google "L691 lens"

Hope this helps,
Alan

At the top sides of the windscreen, there is a hole which screw goes through into the standard roof. I think this screw is really only there to keep the standard roof curved down at the edges. But the German LR pop top people always make a big deal about putting a bolt through this point.

It was a bit tricky because I had failed to put a crush tube in there before bolting the frame on, and I only had access of half the size needed. But the middle of one night I came up with the idea of using two nuts - Bingo!

First I drilled a hole from the inside out with a drill bit in the dremel extension to get it square. Then drilled it out from the outside. Bit tricky as the gutter got in the road. It then took 2.5 hours to get the two M12 nuts into right hand side. They are a very tight fit and stay in place by themselves. The left side only took 10min after I worked out a technique, and needed one washer as a spacer. The M8 bolt would only go through from the inside because of the gutter so I got a castle nut for the outside.

I also attached lengths of 20x20x2mm angle to the underside of the Aluminium frame to hold the top of the door rubbers in. I used tape to fill in gaps in the door rubber angle between the various body parts just like Mr Land Rover, and sealed it all up with half a tube of Sikaflex.