Thread: Largeish Hydraulic Press Build

Or the torsion bars out of an old valiant.
They may be closer to one inch diameter.
They are good n tough!




Cheers, Mick

Another update - and this one has some actual pressing.

Sooo I flushed the lines and hoses with diesel, flushed the tank, then connected all the hoses. Wired up the motor following the Chinglish instructions for CW as opposed to CCW silly me figured CW was clockwise as needed by the gear pump. Fired up and the motor span counter-clockwise. No bother - rewired the motor then hit the go and we made pressure... which meant leaks!!! Fixed the four leaks and seems I have an almost leak free system.

So of course a ram going up and down is no fun - what would be the first attachment?

During the cyclone clean up I found a rusty old axe head under the BBQ...
One axe head plus some scrap steel, plus some internal threading on the lathe and voila!!!!!

My 'Back-no-hurty-can-split-wood-whilst-staying-hydrated log splitter'
And just in time with winter coming on

Steve

excellent work, but whats this "winter" business??? your in bloody Cooktown!

Gee that will really test it

Winter - When the mercury drops down to 20 or even lower

Once this rain all leaves we are into to camping season it is so much easier to have wood prepped and in the ute when you go bush...
And for campfires in the back garden to watch the stars by...
And...anyway...do I really need an excuse to have a log-splitter?

Anyone know a tigharse way to monitor actual pressure applied?
Im thinking the bathroom scales may be just a little out of their league.
Im not completely adverse to putting a pressure gauge inline with the upper cylinder line
BUT I would just be as happy to measure max pressure applied at the stall point of the 5hp motor?

Steve

Noel,
That is some quality 6month aged swamp mahogany!
Not exactly a real test but was fun and wayyyy easier than that other way!

S

You SHOULD throw a fuse/circuit breaker before the motor stalls, or release the smoke from anything. Its also worth remembering the lecky motor will keep on going well past its rated amp rating, for a while anyway.... Really is best to set relief pressure no higher than the point the motor draws its max rated amps if you can beg/borrow/steal a clamp meter.


Actually, you should reach relief pressure and stall the ram before the motor gets anywhere near stalling, or popping breakers...


A pressure gauge and a few calcs would get you close.

Hmmm
u up for it
Rick

Tamworth - Cooktown = 2333km
You up for it? Only a days drive each way and the beer is cold and free once you get here.

The question is when I max the cylinder out in extension or compression and the motor/pump starts to slow (stall) what is happening?
Pressure up over 3000psi, pump still wanting more horsie-power but motor cant give it so it slows down???? Obviously as this happens I have let off the noise lever so smoke is still safely inside the motor.

Details are as such:

-5hp made in Chingaling single phase electric motor
-Running from "15A" circuit which is wired to main board with a dedicated 32A CB
-Which should technically supply the theoretical 28A required to run 5 horsies
-At "stall" which more accurately is "it slows down so I back off the spool valve" the CB does not throw. I am happy to keep pushing it but would prefer to keep both the smoke and hydraulic fluid inside.
-Pressure relief on spool is still at "OEM" setting" and it must have come from Solihull as it has a small leak about the stem seal... I have no qualms about relieving it down but would appreciate guidance as to best practice. Run a clamp meter on the input to the motor and relieve it at say 27A??? Or some % of peak current draw of the motor?


S