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Thread: R380 Rebuild

  1. #11
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    When striping down, I try and keep things in groups/sets. So when removing gears/selector rings, snycros, bearings etc off the shafts, I would reassemble them loose and zip tie them. This helps from losing bits and keeps them in the order they came off (I hope!) I can then clean and reassemble in sets.




    Bolts and other small parts get bagged in some sort of sets.

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  2. #12
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    I started to do a little reassemble this arvo. I have to hammer/drift bearing races and cups as no press.

    This is the new input shaft. If doing this method, do the small TRB cup first, as when you do the TRB race on the other side, you will not touch it at all. If you do the larger TRB race first then flip over theres a good chance you'll be hammering against it.

    Old cup that I removed from the other input shaft, linished down to slip fit and used as a drift:




    Piece of CHS that doesn't touch the outside cone of TRB used as a drift:

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  3. #13
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    OK here is a question for the pros: The small end plate that gets bolted to the main housing has two bearing seats machined in it (for the support of input/main shaft and layshaft) The seat for input shaft is the usual interferrence fit. Now I may have lost/missed something, but the layshaft bearing seat seems to be oversized by approx 2mm on radius! (see pic)



    Im 99% sure that on disassembly that the bearing cup fell out

    Have I missed/lost anything here?
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  4. #14
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    Are you saying that there is 4mm difference between the diameter of the bearing cup and the recess it fits into? Is the cup the same diam as the old one?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Are you saying that there is 4mm difference between the diameter of the bearing cup and the recess it fits into? Is the cup the same diam as the old one?
    yes approx 4mm. The cup in the picture is the old one.

  6. #16
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    And the answer is....

    The main housing locates the layshaft bearing cup/track in the correct position. I will point this out in the pics when I get to that point of assembly. The reason I got thrown off is it repeatedly says in the WSM to "press" in the layshaft bearing track in the end plate.....

  7. #17
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    After cleaning most parts, its time to start rebuilding. I had to turn a few drifts for bearings as off the shelf pipe was either to big or small. Lucky I could get a little time on a mates Lathe. I also bought a dead blow hammer, bloody great thing for drifting the bearings on/in.

    First thing is to rebuild the shafts up to the point that they came out of the main case.

    The Input shaft and Layshaft pretty much only require bearing races/cup installed

  8. #18
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    Next is the Main shaft. Ill let the pics do most of the talking.

    Main shaft hand linished and I bead blasted the output splines:




    Shaft ready for assembly (input end down), first needle roller bearing installed:




    Cleaned 2nd gear (looks good for wear AFAIKT):




    2nd gear installed on shaft (I just use the same oil for assembly as going to run in it):

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  9. #19
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    second gear looks good, although those arent great hi res pictures so I wouldnt bet the farm.

    the polishing on the grip cone for the syncro looks reasonable but theres a score mark on it that Id be having a look see at to work out its origin.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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  10. #20
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    Inner baulk ring installed:




    Inner metal ring installed (3 tabs located in 3 corresponding slots in 2nd gear):




    I missed a photo here showing the outer baulk ring installed. It locates via 3 slots that pic up the up turned ends of the inner baulk ring.

    Synchro selector hub/sleeve assembly. These are very easy to pull apart and clean. There are 2 spring clips (one either side) and 3 little slippers, inner hub and outer sleeve. They can only be reassembled one way (you can not flip the sleeve over and fit it on the hub). Easiest if you make note of it as you pull it apart. They also install only one way on the main shaft and are specific for each gear set.




    Synchro selector assembly installed. Note "second gear side" is facing down towards 2nd gear. Also note (when flipped over and fitted) the single semi circle on the outer edge of sleeve, this side goes TOWARDS 1st gear. These selector hubs locate over the outer baulk ring via 3 slots.

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