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Thread: Defender Electric Windows

  1. #1
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    Defender Electric Windows

    As my dog lets me drive his Defender but likes the window down OK on the bitumen but not so good with traffic on dirt roads so decided electric window the go .Worked out so well decided to join the coffee and hair dryer mob and do the drivers side as well The units are VT commodore about $40 each and take about 3 seconds up or down there is some welding and some bf+m
    If any interest will write it up when the drivers side turns up next week

    AM
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  2. #2
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    A write up would be good AM. The only thing I miss about the D2 is the ability to talk to pedestrians or people in the left lane without having to grab a stick and reach across to the left hand window winder. By the time you have it down you have forgotten what you wanted to say anyway.

    Jeff


  3. #3
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    Are you electrifying the front or rear windows ? I wouldn't mind electric rears in the Puma

  4. #4
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    Nice work.

  5. #5
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    Funnily enough my wife yesterday was saying how rear electric windows would be good - just to stop the 4yr old who loves the wind up ones!

    Also a lot of laughs have been had when I relay the animated calls from the back when we took a new Puma for a test drive. The 6yr old boy called out:

    "Mum, mum, dad, dad ... Look. This is awesome. We have wind up windows". Reminded me of how excited we were in the 1980s to get electric!

  6. #6
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    Thanks AM for the heads up on Commodore units.

    The scissor looks very similar, dare I say identical to those used in the Disco 1.

    If you decide to elaborate it would be interesting to see:
    - the unit before installation in the scissor
    - how the major gear wheel is buffeted when the window comes to a quick halt

    From my experience there seems to be a significant difference in OEM winder units in the Disco 1. Early Discos (ie 1994) have a robust set of rubber blocks to buffer the gear - bit like a train bumping up against huge rubber tyre bollards at the end of a track. Later units the buffer unit consists of a thin disk of rubber akin to cured gask rubber - failure occurs when the drive shaft screws out the centre of the disk. In addition, from memory, the points used to secure the motor to the scissor are different over time ie you cannot use an earlier more robust unit to replace a later model failed unit.

    I'll try and post a pic.

  7. #7
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    As i have only 2 seats am only looking at the fronts.With the trim removed cut a block of wood to support the glass about 85mm unbolt the two nylon glass holders (brittle) ? then the 2 screws holding the door handle 6 bolts holding the panel >cut the LR arm 60mm back from the pivot and the Com at 120mm from the pivot.Remove the motor from the Com and cut the end off 10mm up from the bolt face Drill a 5mm hole 50mm from bottom of LR panel and 15mm from the side. Bolt the cut off bit of Com and drill thru the other hole which should be 15mm from the edge Nest the other bit of Com you will see it needs some trimming round the other 2 bolts then clamp in position running parallel with the bottom drill the 2holes and weld other end

    To be con
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  8. #8
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    Land Rover - window winders 1994 and 1997.jpg

    1994 unit has steel centre and buffets against very solid bits of rubber in cut aways in disk. Haven't broken one yet.

    1997 unit rubber replaces solid steel. Drive shaft chews out the centre. Broken two so far.

  9. #9
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    Damn. Another item on my "great projects to do" list.

    Nice work

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  10. #10
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    The quadrant needs some dental work one extra tooth cut in the bottom and a block of two teeth cut from the LR and welded into the top. The two arms are clamped together .Some hammer and dolly work and welded together at155mm
    distance between the center of the two pivots .Bolt the motor back on locate the assembly with two inner bolts and mark outline of the motor and cut out which should end up looking like pic .The two holes for the track are located about to 75mm from the bottom Assemble ,do wiring and your done

    Thanks Noel
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