This subject has probably been done to death but this tutorial is a bit different as it is a simple job although a bit fiddly & could be done in a day & requires no chassis drilling. Sufficient point of difference to do a tutorial I thought..
Materials required
Approx 2x 2.2 metre 32 mm - 1 1/2" Structural pipe ( I purchased 6.5m length for $53.00)
Self tapping steel screws - approx. 36
2.5 mm Aluminium checkerplate 1.5 m x 200mm
4x 1" X 1/2" bolts
Etch primer & paint
Suitable steel for brackets ideally 30mm or 40 mm x 12mm flat steel plus approx. 6" sq of 8mm plate for the front chassis outrigger brackets. I just used 30mm x20mm thick walled tube as it was handy.
Workshop Equipment required
Pipe bender for 1 1/2" Pipe
4 or 5" angle grinder & approx. 4 thin blades
ARC or mig welder
shifters, "G" clamps, drill & or drill driver with phillips head for tek screws
Start by marking the pipe @ 1560mm length leaving about 300mm on the ends - so pipe needs to be min 2160 length. You need this so there is enough pipe to fit in the bender.
Start bending the pipe with the mark in the middle of the former until it begins to distort then mark & bend from another 60mm towards the pipe end until it starts to distort too. Do the other end but make sure it is on the same axis, using spacers on the floor to make it even if needed.
The pipe can now be trimmed but I suggest leaving it till later as it is easier to keep its balance for the remainder of the job.
Then put it temporarily in place on the vehicle like so ( pic taken after I trimmed the pipe) I reckon 105mm to the pipe outside from the skirting is optimum. Leave enough space for the checkerplate to fit between the pipe & skirting.
It is now a matter of measuring & cutting the brackets to suit, I used whatever was to hand so the photo's will have to form the majority of the description. It was a matter of tac welding, removing, welding & replacing for the next bit.
Pics of brackets in place- Front utilising the large Firewall bolt
Inner part resting on chassis outrigger. You could bolt on here instead of the bracket, but that would mean drilling the chassis and access would be almost impossible anyway.
Another couple of pictures before final installation
Its a case of holding in place marking, cutting & tac welding - don't roll up your sleeves like I did
Rear bracket- (photo is side on), make sure it is on the forward face of the outrigger so that installation is a simple matter of lifting & shifting forward in place. Also, the brackets need the nuts welded in to make removal or installation easier
Rear Bracket before installation.- actually this is the drivers side & being an Isuzu, there is not enough room for protruding bolts on the passenger side so I welded nuts in instead. I would recommend you weld nuts into the brackets instead of bolts to both sides.
Then it is a matter of measuring & cutting the checkerplate. I did this by clamping a piece of straight steel to it & using that to run the angle grinder along it, Clean up rough bits with a small file.
Then it is a case of tek screwing the Ally down on to the pipe & up against the skirting underside to prevent rattles - after painting to suit of course.
Finished product.
Other side.
These are strong enough to Hi Lift jack from & also medium duty rock sliders without adding much weight. I fitted these as I sold the vehicle & the purchaser saw these on my other 2 Landies & had to have them. Cost - allowing for bandages & burn cream- comes in well under $120.00.
Cheers, David
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