No, just bolted in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ean Austral
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No, just bolted in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ean Austral
Hi Ean, also note that circuit breakers can be very temperature sensitive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ean Austral
The higher the temperature, the lower the constant current capacity can become.
Is your CB mounted close to the motor?
If using a name brand, you should be able to check the operating specs for your CB.
My suggestion for the day:
It's not the forward output current you're wanting to protect against but the reverse current. Therefore you could install as pair of diodes in the cable, one forward diode capable of carrying 100% of the output current and one reverse diode plus line fuse set to blow at around 20A or so of reverse current. That way the fuse will only see minimal current until a short occurs inside the alternator. The reverse diode is there to match the voltage drop across the forward diode so the fuse carries very little current under normal conditions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Its mounted near the main start battery, between the battery box and the header tank. there is just a unused area there and its where I mounted the fuse.
I will have to see what the brand is and look it up, thanks.
Cheers Ean
Cheers Ean
Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
I will have to some reading, as I know very little of the diodes you speak of.
I am just a would be if I could be mechanic so these things are off my radar . I am still think a spate cable for the alternator is a better idea than the original design but that's just my simple brain at work.
Thanks and Cheers Ean
Well it seems 70amp is not enough. I put the 80 amp fuse back in and no issues , the 70 amp tripped faster the lower I let the battery voltage drop.
Cheers Ean
Well to put it simply, a diode is to electrics what a spring loaded check valve is to a hydraulic circuit. It has a forwards voltage (equiv to opening pressure) and a reverse breakdown voltage that it can hold without conducting in reverse, like a max operating pressure. Symbol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ean Austral
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/10/410.jpg
Current flows in the direction of the arrow (anode to cathode) but not the other way.
Now a handy arrangement of diodes suitable for this task is called a bridge rectifier, used to convert AC current into DC current. Any decent electronics shop should be able to sell you one and a suitable heat sink to bolt it to. Symbol:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/10/411.jpg
If you connect your alternator output to terminals 2 and 4 together to double up the diodes, a battery connected to terminal 1 will get current. Now here's the magic trick: ALSO connect terminal 3, via a 20A fuse, to the battery at terminal 1. Now as you can see power can flow from the battery to the alternator in strictly limited quantities as needed. The rectifier will look something like this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/10/404.jpg
Ebay has them for under $20 from China. Example:
1200V 100A 1 Phase Rectangle Aluminum Heatsink Bridge Rectifier Diodes
Thanks for that, our youngest daughter is an aircraft avionics tech, looks like a perfect job for her.
Cheers Ean
If you are looking for a means of disconnecting the alternator quickly, these work, but they are not cheap.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/770..._-_12V_DC_500A
A simple switch on the dash, or alternatively, link it to a low voltage alarm or Auber controller set to monitor battery voltage, if voltage is low, then RBS trips.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php'ma...products_id=19
A handy package and easy to connect a fuse-holder between pin 3 and pin 2/4 but one would want to monitor the battery voltage for a while to ensure that the 0.6V drop across the forward diodes didn't unduly lower the charge voltage at the battery as the regulator in the alternator is seeing the full o/p voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey