Land Rover Defender 90 TD5 Tribute Build

[ame]https://youtu.be/3ofuyHLnue0[/ame]

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...10-510x287.png

Recon Gearboxes LTD completed our R380 and it's looking superb! We're*having the brackets blasted and galved*so hope to put that back in soon!
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...19-510x287.png

Following a suggestion from one of the forum posts we've been running for the build, we swapped our Britpart galvanised turrets for*some heavy duty
STD Height HD Front Turrets

. These replacement turrets are stronger, galvanised, easier to clean / maintain and once fitted, will make shock replacement much faster! These have been designed for challenge trucks and are extremely well made. We're also fitting matching
Heavy Duty Front Turret Securing Rings

. These have 10.9 tensile bolts welded into the ring and feature*a chamfered edge to stop tyres rubbing at full articulation.
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...08-510x287.png

*Fitting these turrets is a doddle. The easiest way is to undo the lower nut on the shock, then jack the chassis up to release the spring from it's seat about an inch or two.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...00-510x287.png

Then, if you unbolt the access panel in the wheel arch, and carefully undo the four*nuts on the ring, the whole assembly will lift out in one piece. You may have to use a propane torch on the nuts as these can shear quite easily on corroded parts.
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...27-510x287.png

Then the ring can be slipped into place, the turret offered up and bolted down to 24nm or 17.7lb ft.
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...34-510x287.png


http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...54-510x287.png

*One key benefit of the Gwynn Lewis shock is that you can fit a shock absorber without removing the turret or spring.
Engine Painting

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...41-510x287.png

*The TD5 rocker cover has been polished up and cleaned, so now it's the blocks turn for some attention. First off, all holes are plugged and bolts are temporarily placed back into their holes.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...39-510x287.png

*Look how clean that head is! Took a lot of work, but the results are worth it! Now using a bottle of brake cleaner, the block was throughly scrubbed down and agitated with brushes.
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...13-510x287.png

This is why it's so important! Even after 3 wash downs already, there's still dirt and oil left behind!
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...50-510x287.png

I'm using POR 15 Engine Enamel from
http://Frost.co.uk]

to paint the block, it is recommended that bare aluminium surfaces should be treated*with metal prep first before painting.
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...35-510x287.png

Then blown down with the air gun to get rid of any final bits of debris and moisture that might effect our paint.
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...16-510x287.png

Almost ready to paint, I keyed off the surface with a 3M scrotchbrite pad, just for a little extra adhesion!
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...15-510x287.png

Finally! Painting time! I'm using a good quality brush and POR 15 Engine enamel from Frost. It's designed specifically to be used on engine blocks so will withstand higher temperatures and comes in a selection of colours. I've chosen Buick Green, which is as near as makes no difference to the final build colour, Pastel Green. This colour has become ever so popular recently, however, I bought mine about a year ago. Oh well, this is one Defender that isn't just following the crowd!
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...15-510x287.png

*Looks good! Need to leave this 6 days to fully cure before starting the engine, but we can be on with putting it back in over the next week!

Engine Mounts

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...05-510x287.png

Engine mounts have been refitted, we've replaced the tired originals for some OEM replacements. These need to be torqued*to 85NM. We also took the time to shot blast the original heat shield and paint that in a high temperature spray paint.

Fuel Tank and Guard

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...35-510x287.png

The old fuel tank guard looks a bit sorry for itself. On the TD5 90 this is all that holds the fuel tank in place - it also offers a little protection against terrain when off-roading. We could have replaced it with an original style guard, but these were actually more expensive than an aftermarket, heavy duty galvanised guard (bought from
http://paddockspares.com]

). So we cleaned up the tank, and fitted up the replacement*item
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...05-510x287.png

I used a trolley jack to line it up and hold the guard in place, it's quite cumbersome to do this on your back by yourself.*Once bolted up, it looks great and is very tough! I can stand on the guard and it will take all 16 stone (100kg) of me no worries.
http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...37-510x287.png

A great value replacement / upgrade!

[ame]https://youtu.be/9VCDqXqbCqg[/ame]

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...57-510x287.png




This week, I've had my better half working on the bulkhead, removing the remains of the seam sealer so the bulkhead can be sent off to the shot blasters, then to the galvanisers and back to me for painting.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...29-510x287.png




The filter housing corrodes on the TD5, the one we removed was unusable. I replaced it with this new part which is anodised and also took the time to spray the casting cavity with Dinitrol.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...05-510x287.png




Then I fitted up this bracket, ready to accept the panhard rod.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...43-510x287.png




I've chosen to use a heavy duty adjustable panhard rod from Terrafirma. It's well made and looks good. I had to tap it in place with a soft faced hammer.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...27-510x287.png




To get it to fit, I had to adjust it slightly - then use a screwdriver to align the bolt hole. Both bolts then need*torquing*down. I'm having the Defender professionally set-up and aligned at a later date, so the steering arms e.t.c will be adjusted then.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...25-510x287.png




Then I fitted the cross rod eye into the steering arm. This has a counter clockwise thread so it tightens opposite to what you're normally used to.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...03-510x287.png




Then offered up the steering arm. Unfortunately, I've lost the castellated nuts that go onto the track rods so will need to replace those, along with the split pins.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...22-510x287.png




Next I dropped in the new Old Man Emu steering damper. This is a very heavy duty damper, it's fairly easy to fit though I did have to file down the lower bush race slightly (mostly just the powder coat really).

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...07-510x287.png




Moving onto the brake callipers, we were shot blasting our old ones, which brought them up a treat. But when you have 4 callipers that need blasting, painting, the seals replacing then refitting 0 the time taken quickly adds up. So, the decision was made to replace them with 4 OEM new brake callipers. We are also swapping*the standard steel*piston callipers with stainless steel replacements. In the past, I've had to rebuild the brakes almost everytime I swapped brake pads - as we cover very little miles in the Land Rover, it allows the callipers to corrode. Then when you come along to replace the pads, the callipers will not retract. Lots of people say "just force them", but if your pistons are binding, this is more friction and thus a less efficient brake.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...37-510x287.png




The easiest way to remove the old pistons is using an air line and blow gun. Be careful though, they fly out with tremendous force! I've had caliber pistons fly 30 feet easily! Then unbolt the calliper halves (this is not recommended by us or any brake manufacturer) but if you do so - you must have a spotlessly clean work area.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...49-510x287.png




This is the*stainless steel replacement, they can be picked up quite reasonably nowadays and should prevent any problems in the future!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...56-510x287.png




When assembling, smear Red Rubber Grease on the piston calliper. These has numerous benefits:

• It prolongs the life of the rubber seal
• It reduces the effects of wear from moving parts
• It helps helps to resist*water ingress / hydroscopic action
• It's a rust inhibitor

Once smeared in red rubber grease, the piston*should slide smoothly back into place. Repeat for the remaining pistons. When doing the calliper bolts up, it's best to do these as tight as you can.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...06-510x287.png




We sold our 90's old wheels. These were aftermarket & oversized*alloys that wouldn't suit our build, to a fellow Land Rover enthusiast and FunRover fan. In their place, we're fitting Wolf steel rims. We're trying to stick very closely to Land Rover factory fitment options so these suit our build perfectly, whilst still giving us a more vintage Land Rover appearance. Wolf rims are also impressively strong with a high load ratings per corner. These need painting though to match our concept drawings. We've chosen the classic Land Rover wheel colour: Limestone.http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...32-510x287.pngThroughly keying*off our wheels with a 3M red scotchbrite*pad, and blowing away the resulting dust. Anywhere that isn't keyed off will likely not adhere correctly with the paint.http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...01-510x287.pngThe whole rim was degreased. After the degreaser evaporated, it was then tack clothed.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...23-510x287.png




Finally, onto painting. We're using a single pack, matt finish acrylic enamel. This one uses Xylene industrial thinners, at a ratio of around 10 / 15%. However, since it's so cold in the workshop, I had to add more to suit. A light coat of paint was added for*the first layer. Subsequent layers were*medium wet. We;d been firing up the space heater prior to painting to raise the ambient temperature and burn off some of the humidity. Paints work best when applied around 20 degrees, so the closer to this mark you get, the better.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...29-510x287.jpg




The wheels will then be left to cure for a week at least before mounting the tyres. The coat here is still drying, hence the high gloss appearance.

Mate,

I am supremely impressed with the build! incredible attention to detail!

Steer clear of that terrafirma panhard though, or at least the poly bushes it comes with. Theyre hopeless and you will get the death wobbles. Replace them with superpro or just rubber bushes.

Tom

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wicks89

Mate,

I am supremely impressed with the build! incredible attention to detail!

Steer clear of that terrafirma panhard though, or at least the poly bushes it comes with. Theyre hopeless and you will get the death wobbles. Replace them with superpro or just rubber bushes.

Tom

---

Already swapped them Tom, SuperPro only for this Landy! ;) I did have suspicions about the included polybushes, they are no doubt very cheap

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLLmDy4aUxc[/ame]

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...03-510x287.png

This is Spray booth MK2 which I'll show in a future episode, it's working very well, cutting humidity to the low 30s and upping the air temp to a solid 20+ celsius. It means that I can get the whole car painted even if it's freezing outside and the workshop is only 1 or 2 degrees warmer.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...03-510x287.png

Once the wheels had been cured in the booth I took them along to a local tyre fitters

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...50-510x287.png

I've chosen the Wolf HD rims (as seen on Heritage edition Defenders). These are tough, strong and quite cheap.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...44-510x287.png

Along with tubeless Goodyear MTR tyres, another factory fit option.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...25-510x287.png

The tyre fitter used a product known as Rim Seal that has anti-corrosion properties as well as adding lubrication for the next step

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...31-510x287.png

The tyre fitting machine has a large guide that eases the tyre bead of the lip of the wheel.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...34-510x287.png

Finally, the tyres are inflated to manufacturer specifications, this helps to seat them too (watch the video too see how loud this stage is!)

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...13-510x287.png

Here they are mounted up in daylight, the colour and*finish is perfect! The SIP HVLP gun I used works well for the money!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...31-510x287.png

The tyre fitting guide can score the lips of the wheel, which is no real problem!

[img:510:287]http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Screen-Shot-2015-12-14-at-08.42.38-510x287.png[/img]

I simply wiped it clean with alcohol then used an artist brush to touch in the scrapes.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...17-510x287.png

Whilst the repairs are drying, I dropped in the pads - EBC Green stuff to match the EBC performance disks. This Land Rover will stop on a penny if needs be!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...10-510x287.png

Not keen on the colour, but the wheels will cover them up!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...52-510x287.png

Lifting the wheels onto the longer Wolf*FRC7577 extended wheel studs - expensive but*designed to work with the Wolf rim

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...48-510x287.png

Nipping the nuts up, they need to be torqued to 170NM after lowering the Landy of it's jacks.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...20-510x287.png

All 4 wheels fitted!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...38-510x287.png

Fitting up the alternator / vacuum pump whilst the engine is still on the stand

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...24-510x287.png

This has been painted with a high temp paint to match the rest of the engine

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...54-510x287.png

Now it's time to finally drop the engine back in the 90! This feels like it's finally getting somewhere!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...40-510x287.png

The engine needs to*be lifted over the front crossmember between the dumb irons. The engine crane is an extremely useful tool, I love it! It's also useful to have 2 people here, one to jack and watch the near side, whilst the other guides in the engine from the other.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...-08.55.091.gif

Fitting an engine to a rolling chassis is great, there's nothing in the way! Takes about a minute!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...44-510x287.png

And that's it for this week, need to get cracking now as I would still like to hit my deadline of January 1st XD

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrEJwVE1jr4[/ame]

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...41-510x287.jpg

The rear tub is in need of some minor repairs. The tub cappings*will be removed and sent off for galvanising. Everywhere else, we have replacement repair sections.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...33-510x287.png

Using a 6mm drill bit, we're drilling into the rivet head, which typically shears off.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...03-510x287.png

Then the crush section of the rivet can be tapped out, this is the quickest way to remove rivets.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...19-510x287.png

There are quite a number of rivets all told on the cappings

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...53-510x287.png

In addition to*rivets, the cappings are typically held on with some mild adhesives / foam tape and can then be lifted away. Those will be going to the galvanisers along side*the bulkhead and will be fitted unpainted to the 90 for that classic Land Rover appearance.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...21-510x287.png

Cappings gone, you can see the Zinc Phosphate primer applied at the factory. Over the*primer, the tub is currently overcoated in 2 pack (Chawton White). We'll be going to the classic (and now rather popular) Pastel Green, a Series 1 colour

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...59-510x287.png

These seatbelt mount brackets*panels came from YRM Metal Solutions. They've been laser cut, CNC folded and galvanised. The result is excellent tolerances and a lasting repair!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...45-510x287.png

Fitting is easy, the old seat belt mount bracket is removed.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...42-510x287.png

And any flaky*aluminium corrosion is stripped away*with a wire wheel.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...33-510x287.png

We applied Dinitrol cavity wax to the tub, before offering up the repair section.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...04-510x287.png

It's supplied in 2 pieces (otherwise it wouldn't fit), there are a*few holes that have captive nuts so*bolts were installed to hold the panel in place, along with a G clamp.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...50-510x287.png

Before drilling the holes for each fixing.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...16-510x287.png

There are a total of 48 M8 bolts required. Once secured, these panels are very strong! There's zero movement and the whole lot will be overcoated*with stone chip for further protection.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...59-510x287.png

Moving onto the strike plate, this often corrodes where the tub fits to the sill rail, due to bimetallic reaction. The aluminium turns to a powder and is completely unusable.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...46-510x287.png

So to repair we'll fit new strike plate sections from YRM too. These are pretty simple to fit,*and once prepared and painted, it should be as good as new.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...51-510x287.png

We're starting by marking off where we'd like to cut off the strike plate.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...16-510x287.png

And using a spot weld drill to remove the spot welds and rivets below the line, including on the seal retainer.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...51-510x287.png

Then, using a bolster chisel and a scraper, we can begin to prise*the 2 skins apart

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...33-510x287.png

Finally, we scored a mark with a Dremel multi tool along the line. Then we were able to fracture the corroded part off, with a clean break formed along our score.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...22-510x287.png

I'll be fitting the new sections in another video, shown here is the exposed rear*skin.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...09-510x287.png

The floor too has suffered with some corrosion and needs replacing. The dome rivets need to be ground down, others will need to be drilled and others still, cut with a grinder.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...17-510x287.png

The floor has adhesives applied in key areas, so it can take some time with a breaker bar & hammer to separate the floor from the supports.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...24-510x287.png

After all*rivets have been drilled out, the floor will lift out

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...35-510x287.png

Now's a good time to assess*the condition of the tub supports. We can also throughly rust proof these whilst they're exposed.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...43-510x287.png

*Finally,*my plumber wife kindly began brazing some of the redundant holes in my tub, using the excellent Lumiweld from Frost.co.uk. You can check out the results at the end of the video, it's impressive stuff! And is formulated to work on Birmabright!

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKugafonbWo[/ame]

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...35-510x287.png

One of the many brilliant things about YouTube is that we can get feedback directly from our viewers. Some of these these comments are very useful (in fact*we read and respond to every single one). One fan told us a woeful story when he had to remove his gearbox for a 2nd time after forgetting*to change the rear crankshaft oil seal on a high mileage TD5. So a replacement was sort from LR Parts.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...40-510x287.png

Once the*new item was in place (see video for fitting), the spigot bush was pressed into place. This had*been soaked in engine oil for a few days. This is an old school trick I read about that helps sintered bronze bushes (which are supposedly*porous) to add extra lubrication to a material that is already self-lubricating. I've read of premature spigot bush failings and figured it was worth a shot. The rear of the engine block was cleaned up too.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...05-510x299.png

Once cleaned off, the gearbox shim plate / cover and DMF were fitted up. You can purchase a flywheel holder to fasten down the 2 stage bolts, or simply get someone else to hold it. The bolts are tightened up by*diagonal selection (star pattern).

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...07-510x287.png

The clutch cover (and flywheel) were*cleaned up using Brake & Clutch cleaner.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...20-510x287.png

Using a clutch alignment tool (these are available on eBay at a good price), the clutch plate was offered up and correctly positioned.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...48-510x287.png

And the 3/8 torque wrench broken out to secure down the clutch cover

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...48-510x287.png

Moving onto the transfer box, this needed to be reunited with the reconditioned R380. I toyed with the idea of fitting a Discovery transfer box, with it's preferable ratio that offers lower revs at cruising speeds. *On balance, I decided against fitting the disco box as I*rarely go on substantial motorway trips to warrant such a change. This was most easily achieved by standing the gearbox on end, then square lifting the transfer box onto the output*shaft of the gearbox.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...33-510x287.png

Torque settings can be found in the manual. We'll re-finish the hand brake drum once the gearbox is in place, as it will undoubtedly get scratched during fitting.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...44-510x287.png

The gearbox and transfer box are joined once more! Incidentally, I've been making use of some carpeted plywood panels as assembly mats. We removed them from the 90*on disassembly, but they've proven useful at preventing newly painted components from getting marked and scuffed*up.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...47-510x287.png

We next fitted the clutch release bearing guide (of which I now have 3, thanks to ordering one part that was completely wrong and losing my original one and then finding it a few days later). The clutch fork, push rod and clips such as this one above that prevent the whole lot from*dislodging and destroying the clutch plate, were secured also. Molybdenum grease was used in appropriate areas.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...26-510x287.png

The engine ready to receive the gearbox /transfer box assembly.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...19-510x287.png

An engine crane is worth it's weight in gold here. A second pair of hands (thanks Phil, he always brings biscuits!) make lighter work of aligning the box, as does a high lift*trolley jack to fine tune positioning. Strap the gearbox to the crane as though the bell housing wasn't present as this weighs almost nothing. Try go diagonally across the gearbox casing and transfer box to get as level*a lift as possible.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...27-510x287.png

Reconditioned gearbox meets the engine for the first time! Meshing the splines together was a little tricky and took a while, but once done, it's very satisfying! Need to fire some oil in both of those now. I'm going to run some cheap oil*through both to flush them out (just in case)

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...39-510x287.png

Took the chance to renew the gearbox mounts whilst I had access. These are OEM replacements.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...28-510x287.png

The slave cylinder and associated pipes were looking worse for wear. It was decided to replace them as the cost isn't particularly prohibitive and it's an easy job.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...19-510x287.png

The only original parts saved were the bracket and the nuts (albeit,*cleaned up on the wire wheel and the bracket was sanded and painted). I've popped a pen lid on there to stop any dirt from the ceiling dropping in (there's a shop*above mine and when they walk around, tiny specs of chipboard*dust fall everywhere)

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...03-510x287.png

Once that's sorted, I can put my new props on. In the end, the decision came down to either reconditioning the old ones, replacing them with large and expensive HD ones or just purchasing new OEM ones. I chose OEM ones from Britpart as I've been told these are produced by Hardy Spicer (well, GKN as they bought out HS apparently). Time will tell if this was the right decision. Fitting the props is made easier if you jack up one wheel, allowing the transmission to freely rotate.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...50-510x287.png

I'll grease those UJs and props again before running the vehicle, once offered up, fixings were lightly greased to prevent seizing up, and torqued down to 48nm. A propshaft socket is very handy here, you'll also need a 9/16 spanner*(some owners make a 14mm combination*work, though this isn't quite the right size and can cause nut rounding)

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...38-510x287.png

Props in place

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...33-510x287.png

I've fitted the oil cooler, however some owners have contacted me suggesting an upgrade to this area - will feature that in a coming episode.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...08-510x287.png

I managed to accidentally format my SD card the other week, losing a lot of engine re-assmebly clips! And a rather humorous one of me putting the inlet manifold into a dishwasher, before the dishwasher began to spew diesel and oil*bubbles all over the kitchen. The wife, needless to say, wasn't impressed.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...19-510x287.png

Inlet manifold and fuel cooler in position.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...08-510x287.png

The painted turbo and exhaust manifold, we used grey POR 15 high temperature*manifold paint from Frost.co.uk.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...08-510x287.png

You might*remember that our manifold had warped and snapped studs. This is a common issue on Td5's. The easiest fix (and most cost effective) is to remove the manifold and have it skimmed true and dewebbed. The theory is that the casting*has warped and shouldn't warp again. Once it's been engineered back to acceptable tolerances, you can fit longer studs from AliveTuning or similar with spacers to help prevent the studs from snapping again. We purchased a set of 16mm stainless steel spacers from eBay, along with an extended stud kit and then painted the whole lot*to match the turbo. It shouldn't ever shift*again and the cost was preferential to that of a custom stainless or ceramic coated manifold.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...01-510x287.png

Removing broken studs: you can try stud extractors (didn't work for me), drilling and retapping, drilling and helicoiling or welding a nut onto the end of the stud and removing that way.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...26-510x287.png

This works well as the heat from welding helps*free up*the threads*and the whole stud*should simply*wind out.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...59-510x287.png

The manifold skimming*cost ?90 in the end from a local machine shop. This was considerably cheaper than ?500+ for a stainless part.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...52-510x287.png

These M8 16mm spacers were purchased from eBay and match our Wurth extended studs nicely.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...13-510x287.png

The kit also includes a washer and copper flashed nut, helping avoid*corrosion issues.

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...47-510x287.png

Here's the manifold in place, complete with it's spacers. It certainly looks the part and shouldn't warp again. I also fitted 2 gaskets because when I removed it, there were 2 gaskets - probably a service bulletin fix from a dealer!

http://funrover.com/wp-content/uploa...46-510x287.png

Next time, we can fit up our stainless exhaust system, weld the bulkhead and sort out the brake pipes.

OMG??.

Nice!

Like the concept... I think where you are going is exactly where I thought the Heritage models should have gone. But remember, early series 1's had body coloured wheels...

Keep it up!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MR LR

Nice!

Like the concept... I think where you are going is exactly where I thought the Heritage models should have gone. But remember, early series 1's had body coloured wheels...

Keep it up!

---

Hi Will,

Thanks for the input. I was originally going to paint them body colour, but decided against it as I wanted to keep the final build colour a surprise until the end. I also wanted a bit of contrast so it wasn't a green blob. But I may regret this later and end up repainting them, let's see ;)

Latest video is out, haven't had time to write it all up just yet:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDlnyEQVp20[/ame]