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Thread: Making my own D2 roof rails - what material???

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Of course most people ignore the load limit (which was for sway...I am not advocating doing so) and if you intend going with heavy then you will need to consider what the roof panel can hold..... Cheers

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Of course most people ignore the load limit (which was for sway...I am not advocating doing so) and if you intend going with heavy then you will need to consider what the roof panel can hold..... Cheers
    The standard roof rails affix to internal roof support braces under the turret skin.
    They appear quite strong visually.
    One at the D pillar, where the rear extension bolts on, one at the C pillar, where the front rails finish, and the front across the top of the windscreen.

    Prolly not as strong as a full length roof rack that sits on the gutter in 4 or 5 spots, but won't be as heavy either. I've seen roof top tents on the OEM rails, so they must be able to support a fair weight.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR LR View Post
    Yeah, and they're useless because of it! Purely decorative crap...
    So that's a thumbs up for 1" 7/8 then Will?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CU55TM Disco View Post
    So that's a thumbs up for 1" 7/8 then Will?
    I'm still in the 40NB camp Rob.

  5. #15
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    Sep 2010
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    Well I've somewhat committed to this project now, just went and saw the exhaust bloke, and ordered 2meters of 1" 7/8 with a 45* mandrel bend on one end, and an additional 200'm of tube on the other.

    Old mate seems pretty hand with the tig so hopefully it's a neat and presentable job...

    I can see this is going to add up to a little more that I first anticipated, but should look the goods when done.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Got the tubes finally done...
    One Is good, the other is a bit on the ****, which I'm not happy with, but I'm also questioning the material I've chosen. The butt join from the straight to the bend looks like it is gone be a weak spot, that's my feelings anyway...

    I think I should of got the straight reduced and inserted into the mandrell bend, with a nice fat bread of weeks around it, and maybe a plug weld for good measure.

    Anyway, I'm now considering 32nb, and doing it in one piece, no joins to fail.

    uploadfromtaptalk1471491635977.jpguploadfromtaptalk1471491651001.jpg

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