Lithium Battery Install Instructions

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Originally Posted by W&KO

I think you’ve missed the OP minimum requirement.

1. Doesn’t want to use starter as part of usable capacity, the wants a system to isolate when engine is shut down

2. Wants to use lithium, therefore DC-DC is pretty much a certainty.....and give him the capacity he wants. Pretty much all my research leads to needing a DC-DC.

Sure from here on in he might not have it all squared away as the ‘perfect’ install but at least he is having a crack.

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Maybe I should add a little more in. Without a BMS response the system operates drawing on the main battery. In my test I was logging with gap tool and Bluetooth battery monitors. It was down to around 12.2v at times and rarely over 12.8v I actually thought there was an error. But as soon as the car started with a crank battery below 12.4v the BMS commanded the alternator.

Even a DC/DC system will work better with an input voltage.

More testing to see what the actual trigger point would be good. Maybe a modified isolator that draws down just enough to trigger the BMS for this system would the ultimate solution.

Also I havnt looked at a DC DC charger for a while but the last one I did work on for someone, I had to add an ignition trigger wire to turn it on. This particular model sensed input voltage to turn on and would not start charging the second battery with an alternator or solar input less then 12.9v. which as I said might not happen with the LR system.

The OP seems all over it. But it's just another consideration for people thinking about going down this route.

Lithium is a great solution and yes has to be DC DC charged at this point in time, hopefully they crack that soon and it can be a bolt in replacement. My response is only aimed at helping as well. I'm sorry if it didn't read that way it up that I was pushing an agenda. All I want is for the OP to have cold beer in the days time. That was the main mission target I read

DC lithium set ups will be the preferred option for campers as battery prices come down and charging options increase.

Lithium batteries are lighter/smaller better DOD/longevity. More capacity in the same space.

DOD of 100% on a yellow top is bull****. See how long that lasts for you !

Alternator, solar and 240v plug-in are your input sources. A DC charger with integrated BMS will accept all those inputs and maintain a lithium battery pack that will last a ton more cycles. Charge speed will be more than enough in most cases.

Prices are coming down fast.

Hi Manic and correct, you are only likely to get around 400 cycles to 0% SoC ( = 110% DoD ) but in this specific situation, the Optima is around 1/4 the price of a Lithium, and you will spread the cost over 16 to 20 years, not pay it upfront.


But my replies are not about which battery type to use, it is about the erroneous info being posted.


Also note, that by the time lithium batteries drop significantly in price ( if they actually do ) many people will be driving electric vehicles and will either forgo having a dual battery system or will fit an isolated system, using lithium batteries that will only be charged while the vehicle is stationary.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

note, that by the time lithium batteries drop significantly in price ( if they actually do ) many people will be driving electric vehicles and will either forgo having a dual battery system or will fit an isolated system, using lithium batteries that will only be charged while the vehicle is stationary.

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In the interim, many diesel rigs will be able to use lithium for aux power. The EVs coming to market will lower price of relatively small lithium battery packs. Building batteries from 18650 cells is not hard either. Modular building kits will come so you can assemble cells to fit available space. Tons of these cells will also become available from salvage EV wrecks.

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Originally Posted by rocket rod

Howdy all

I had a previous thread saying I was installing a new lithium based DBS in my D4 5 seater and I've completed the job. The instructions are attached for all to see.

Have fun.
Rod.

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Here's an updated version.

Attachment 157550

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Then you ”suggest” that if someone intends to do a similar setup, that they can use THINNER 8B&S cabling.

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Phew who would have thought someone doing a home project and sharing their results would get shot down in flames with such ferocity. It makes you think whether it's worthwhile doesn't it? Anyway I will still contribute when I see I can add something useful to the discussion.

I might need to correct the record here as there seems to be some confusion. I said in my instructions that I had used the existing Traxide cable from the starter battery to the DC/DC charger and this is 6 B&S. My reference to 8 B&S is straight from the Projecta manual and they have been doing this stuff for a while now so who am I to question them. All other connections are short runs and I've used 8 B&S. I've uploaded a new version of the instructions stating this.

I've been driving around over the last couple of days since the Battery Torture Test and my battery monitors says 100%. Can't tell you how long I've been driving but it all seems good so far.

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Originally Posted by rocket rod

My reference to 8 B&S is straight from the Projecta manual and they have been doing this stuff for a while now so who am I to question them.

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Rod, you’re trying to setup your own DBS to suit your requirements, which is admirable, but as for having any genuine knowledge of this field, you are somewhat lacking.


I explained why no one with any real knowledge now uses thin cabling, but no I’m wrong because you have an “EXPERTS” statement saying otherwise.


Well below is a link to one of their videos, which is based on a total fabrication and I won’t say why, as I imagine others will pick it pretty quickly.

They are anything but experts, just know how to advertise.


I have been in this field of automotive electrics and electronics for just over 40 years, I run an honest business and I do my best to help others, even when they don’t have my products.


But I have to compete against companies like your EXPERTS on a daily basis. Whether you take my advice or ignore it is no longer of any concern to me, but as I have stated a number of times now, there are others reading this and they now have the option to setup in a way that is to their best interest, with the correct info to do just that.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlNTqEqRF0Q

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Rod, you’re trying to setup your own DBS to suit your requirements, which is admirable, but as for having any genuine knowledge of this field, you are somewhat lacking.


I explained why no one with any real knowledge now uses thin cabling, but no I’m wrong because you have an “EXPERTS” statement saying otherwise.


Well below is a link to one of their videos, which is based on a total fabrication and I won’t say why, as I imagine others will pick it pretty quickly.

They are anything but experts, just know how to advertise.


I have been in this field of automotive electrics and electronics for just over 40 years, I run an honest business and I do my best to help others, even when they don’t have my products.


But I have to compete against companies like your EXPERTS on a daily basis. Whether you take my advice or ignore it is no longer of any concern to me, but as I have stated a number of times now, there are others reading this and they now have the option to setup in a way that is to their best interest, with the correct info to do just that.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlNTqEqRF0Q

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FFS give the guy a break.....all he has done is state what the manufacture recommends.

How bout you get stuck into the manufacturers......

I bought and installed a Traxide system and was impressed by the ability to talk to the maker to sort some minor install aspects and it worked out really well.

How rare is that nowadays!

Please don't shoot the messenger!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Rod, you’re trying to setup your own DBS to suit your requirements, which is admirable, but as for having any genuine knowledge of this field, you are somewhat lacking.


I explained why no one with any real knowledge now uses thin cabling, but no I’m wrong because you have an “EXPERTS” statement saying otherwise.


Well below is a link to one of their videos, which is based on a total fabrication and I won’t say why, as I imagine others will pick it pretty quickly.

They are anything but experts, just know how to advertise.


I have been in this field of automotive electrics and electronics for just over 40 years, I run an honest business and I do my best to help others, even when they don’t have my products.


But I have to compete against companies like your EXPERTS on a daily basis. Whether you take my advice or ignore it is no longer of any concern to me, but as I have stated a number of times now, there are others reading this and they now have the option to setup in a way that is to their best interest, with the correct info to do just that.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlNTqEqRF0Q

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Nice try pulling out a video from 9 years ago, suggest you look at this one YouTube from Feb 2019

On another issue, I must say in my 40 years in corporate sales I never won over a customer by arguing with them or putting down the opposition products. I generally found they walked away and if asked usually did not offer a glowing endorsement to other potential customers. Your call.