Thanks!
Those Exmoor trim seat box covers are serious pieces of kit, you should notice the benefits!
Sealing up the panels as you go is a good idea.
Cheers for the pics of the bonnet liner, looks good. Let me know how well it works.
Printable View
I think I know the sound insulation mob in Blackburn!
I can possibly even hazard a guess at the stuff you've got!
Sounds like it is doing a good job so I wouldn't worry about water. If it's on the outside any water probably evaporates due to heat or just being open to atmosphere. I'd only worry about it if it was inside holding moisture.
My Defender came out very good after sound deadening and talking on the motorway at 110kph is entirely possible, even with an old 4 speed manual.
I purchased various types of deadening material and enjoy a relatively quiet journey (when the mrs is not in the car)
Its certainly an easy job when the car is being rebuilt and items are already apart. I even applied to the exterior panels surrounding the engine and the transmission. Most sections consisted of aluminium backed foam (exterior), metal work, heavy sound deadening, foam deadening and then carpet.
The following photo shows the seat base exterior and firewall.
Attachment 160453Attachment 160454
Some Photos of the inside of the firewall showing the high density sound deadening, followed by the foam and then the carpet.
Attachment 160455Attachment 160456Attachment 160457
For those that were wondering about the bonnet, I used 3m stone guard, I sprayed 1lt on the inside of the bonnet. It has held up very well and the difference was immediately noticeable. It basically stopped all the induction noise i could hear from the carburetor.
Attachment 160458
The other big sound killer was adding a false floor for sleeping in the landy on trips, I feel this basically halved the noise levels again. This was made of ply, however was lined with the foam sound deadening and carpet. Unfortunately i don't have any photos of it complete.
Attachment 160459
You have done a fab job on the write up, wish this was around prior to me starting my own research. One observation that I found from my research, was the big name brands don't necessarily equate to far superior sound deadening You will likely get the same performance from smaller brands. I would also avoid the tar based stuff, i found it didn't stick nicely and heat would impact how well it stayed glued to a surface. The material i used for the vibration deadening was the same weight but white/grey in colour, and there were no issues with adhesion.
Nice work!
Interesting to hear how well the spray on stuff worked on the bonnet.
I forgot to mention this type of material and also the brush on type of black underseal goo. Both of these are great at panel damping and will also add a bit of mass and reduce the TL a bit.
Yes it was rather by accident.
This was applied using a Shutz gun. For those that don't know what this is, its a gun that almost splatters thick paint on, commonly used for applying tub liners to utes etc.
Finally have the Defender back on the road and running super quiet. My first commute back to work in it this morning and it was almost like driving my Disco 2.
Some photos of my sound deading efforts are below, other things that made a huge difference was replacing the plastic instrument binnacle with a Raptor steel one and fixing the steering column surround, both have reduced the number of erroneous rattles at idle.
I used Car Builders deadner and the Exmoor trim fitted mat set. Both good products. Foam tape seal from Bunnings and sealant on any gaps. Has taken me a while as some minor rust repairs to footwell amd battery box had to be dealt with plus replaced all fixings with stainless.
No Db data except from a phone app, but at idle it was around 65db now at about 60.5. Also measuring success by other means such as this morning I pulled up to an intersection and wondered what the load clicking sound was, turns out its the indicator flasher unit..... couldn't hear it before now!
Cheers Discofenderhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0bd2f48769.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1f8802598a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fa2feeb216.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dbe719944c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...70356a8cdb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c91ac998e4.jpg
Final phase of the 'sound proofing' project or more correctly the 'road noise reducing' project has commenced. Car builders products again. Now just need to recover the roof lining panels and refit.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ff17efc165.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...28f915437e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dd23a0a885.jpg
Fantastic thread - thanks for the top info Dan.
About the pull the trigger on the car builders myself - good to see its got a good vote of confidence.
Cheers,
Matt
Time to revisit the thinsulate idea....
I've recently fitted a solar panel on the roof, fastened between 2 roof bars and angled the same as the sloping front part of the roof. This has created some extra wind noise.
I've tried to fill as many gaps around the front bar and under the panel with cut up pool noodle foam. This works a treat unless there's significant side wind.
So.... down came the front of the roof lining and I slid in 4 big strips of thinsulate - 2 down the middle between the roof panel reinforcing strips and one down each side of the roof curve towards each front door.
I'll let you know how well it works!
The only issue I found was the 3 nutsert type things that the fixing for the rear view mirror screws into now spin freely around, so I haven't been able to reattach the rear view mirror until I figure out how to fix it. I've got a nutsert kit so maybe I'll drill them out and fit new ones.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2ed5917eb8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8507e17878.jpg