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Thread: Warn XD9000 rebuild with Albright solenoid & dash control

  1. #11
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    Looking great!

    Can vouch for Aeroshell 64 - my XD9000 hadn't been used for quite a number of years and almost wouldn't turn over.

    Disassemble, clean and lube and its as good as new :-)
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

  2. #12
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    Aug 2021
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    The motor end cap has a piece of insulating paper glued to it. There wasn't much glue holding mine down so I carefully removed the paper in one piece with the intention of reusing it. The cap then got the wire brush / abrasives treatment to remove all the white corrosion.

    I removed the A-terminal stud and undid the T50 torx screws that fasten the stator winding clamps to the motor housing. I then removed the clamps, leaving the windings in place. Water had evidently been trapped under a couple of the clamps and that's where the worst corrosion was, although it was again better than I had expected. The clamps and torx screws went into vinegar and I cleaned up the inside of the housing with a wire brush and abrasives, being careful not to damage or disturb the windings. The clamps also got some sandpaper after the vinegar soak.

    The surfaces where the brush holder and motor housing mate together form the main electrical earth return path so you need to make sure these surfaces are nice and clean, and that they fit together nicely. I gave them a good wire brush followed by sandpaper with a block to keep it more or less flat and this seemed to work quite well.

    The drum support was also wire brushed. A lot.

    Everything was then sprayed liberally with electrical cleaner. The bearing in the drum support was pretty good so I was careful to keep the cleaner away from it to preserve the internal greasing.

    If your bearing/s are stuffed you can get a new armature bearing (Warn 98499) but it seems like you have to buy the entire drum support to get the support bearing (Warn 25985). Or if you're pulling them out anyway you could just measure them with a pair of calipers and find some that fit. I'm sure people have done this but I couldn't find the specs posted anywhere when I looked. The other option is to prize off the bearing covers to service them but the covers on this type tend to get mangled whenever I've attempted it so I thought better, not to mention considerably easier, just to leave them alone.

    029.jpg 030_cr.jpg 031.jpg 032_cr.jpg

  3. #13
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    Aug 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    Looking great!

    Can vouch for Aeroshell 64 - my XD9000 hadn't been used for quite a number of years and almost wouldn't turn over.

    Disassemble, clean and lube and its as good as new :-)

    Yes, I agree it's good stuff.

  4. #14
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    Jul 2011
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    Yarrawonga, Vic
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    Good write up.

    I've just converted a PTO winch to electric (I'll post it up soon) & going by the price difference looks like I'm using a chinese knock off of the Albright Solenoid , I am not across all this newfangled electric winch stuff, Do you have any intel on these solenoids & wondered why you didn't use one of them ,

    this is the one I bought .. Winch Solenoid Control Contactor 500A 12V Relay Switch Boat ATV Control 4x4 4WD | eBay

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    Good write up.

    I've just converted a PTO winch to electric (I'll post it up soon) & going by the price difference looks like I'm using a chinese knock off of the Albright Solenoid , I am not across all this newfangled electric winch stuff, Do you have any intel on these solenoids & wondered why you didn't use one of them ,

    this is the one I bought .. Winch Solenoid Control Contactor 500A 12V Relay Switch Boat ATV Control 4x4 4WD | eBay
    Hey, thanks. PTO conversion sounds interesting!

    I guess the short answer is that I'm no expert on electrical components either so I just went with something that I know is dependable. If I'm using a winch to get out of strife it usually means I'm not having a good day so I want it to work when I pull the trigger.

    The one you link to could be just as good as the Albright units in terms of component quality and reliability for all I know, but I was willing to bet the price difference that it isn't. At that price I'm sure someone else on the forum has taken the punt though... Looks like it has a few ok reviews on Amazon but they were all written five minutes after the buyer took it out of the box.

  6. #16
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    So, motor housing parts disassembled and cleaned up, I turned my attention to the armature. Again, the bearing seemed fine so I just cleaned up the surface rust on the shaft and gave the stack and commutator a light brush with fine sandpaper. I also gave the commutator slots a quick clean with a flat blade screwdriver. Everything except the bearing then got a blast of Lectra-Clean.

    Got out the trusty masking tape and masked off the drum support bearing and the outer perimeter of the drum support leaving only the central portion which sits inside the motor housing exposed. On the armature I masked from the armature bearing down to the top of the winding coils and the motor shaft down past the support bearing surface to the second lateral groove.

    On the motor housing I taped the flat edges at both ends. I reinstalled the winding clamps with a small amount of copper anti-seize on the torx screws. I returned the A-terminal stud to its location in the housing and taped the top of the copper stud strap where it screws to the brush housing.

    I also taped the rim of the end cap and the heads and threads of the two long motor bolts.

    All of the motor internals were then painted with a couple of coats of CRC Red Urethane. I didn't paint the brush holder but you can paint it too if you like; just take the brushes and straps out first and mask/sand the contact face where it joins the housing. I wasn't really sure what to do with the precious genuine Warn end cap insulating paper that I'd salvaged earlier so I put it back where I found it in the end cap while the first coat was still tacky, then sprayed a second coat over the top.

    When the paint dried I gave the motor housing end surface another once over with the sandpaper to make sure that earth connection from the brush holder stays sweet.

    033_cr.jpg 034.jpg 035.jpg 036.jpg 037_cr.jpg

  7. #17
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    Aug 2021
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    REASSEMBLY.

    Before beginning I gave both of the bearings a quick spray of MX3 and a good spin.

    The brushes can be retracted and locked off in the brush holder enabling the armature bearing to pass through for reinstallation. Lock them back, then align the slot in the brush holder with the copper strap from the A-terminal stud and seat the brush holder on the motor housing.

    I reinstalled the armature with the brush holder sitting flat on the bench and the housing seated vertically on top, then I just carefully dropped the armature into place. Again, be mindful of the dicky plastic tabs in the brush holder but they should just snap back over the bearing as you drop it in. Don't forget to release the four brushes or you'll be doing this again. Reinstall the slotted screw fixing the A-terminal strap to the brush strap.

    Reinstall the end cap. I put a little silicone lubricant around the join to seal it up, being careful not to contaminate the inner surfaces where the earth connection is made.

    Give the assembled motor internals a blast of MX3 and give the armature a spin.

    039.jpg 040.jpg 038.jpg 041.jpg 042_cr.jpg

  8. #18
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    The motor end drum support has a bunch of holes in it that, depending on which model winch it's attached to and the orientation that it's mounted in, don't need to be there and only serve to facilitate water ingress.

    Winch competitors and other zealots, I'm told, often seal it all up and install a breather tube but for my purposes I didn't really see the point in going that far. I did take some steps though.

    There are two U-shaped apertures on the drum support which are designed to allow any water that does make it inside to drain away. Problem is that if you have the mount points forward of the winch, like the vast majority of Australian setups, one of these points forwards and slightly up which isn't of much assistance at all. If you are in this boat I recommend filling the offending aperture with black silicone or similar on reassembly, which is what I did. I left the one that theoretically kind of does what it is supposed to do alone, but some people file it out to improve drainage.

    If your mount points are underneath your winch, which seems to be popular in the US particularly, you can fill the other one instead.

    While I was at it I noted that there are four threaded holes, which all pass right through the drum support, for the motor mounting bolts but only two bolts. I aligned the motor housing correctly with the drum support to double check I had things right and then I filled those unused holes as well. I also filled three of the other four holes that don't pass right through (only one is needed for the locating pin) but it's not necessary since they're covered up by the edge of the housing anyway. It does make it easy to see where the pin goes however if you're prone to such errors.

    The holes I filled are marked green in the photo.

    If you're hydrophobic another thing you might want to consider is seating some appropriately sized (BS009) o-rings in the recesses that appear to be designed for them underneath the motor bolt washers. I tried this but the old washers were a bit bent inwards and the torque I wanted on the bolts was deforming the o-rings. I probably could have made it work just by fitting some new washers of a suitable diameter but I ended up sealing around the old washers with some silicone lubricant instead; they seemed to seal pretty well regardless.

    When you're satisfied with everything fit the drum support to the motor assembly nip the motor bolts up. I put a bit of zinc anti-seize on the threads beforehand.

    043_cr2.jpg 043_dr.jpg 044.jpg

  9. #19
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    Probably best to test the motor before going any further.

    I had the cranking battery out anyway so this was pretty easy. I used one of the short Warn cables to connect the F1 stud to the A stud. I then used a pair of jumper cables to connect battery earth to motor earth, and one end of the live cable to battery positive. Connect the other end of the live cable to F2 and the motor should spin.

    To reverse polarity and spin the motor the other way connect F2 to A with the short cable and connect the live cable to F1.

    Turns out my motor works.

  10. #20
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    Gather ye gearbox components together.

    This part was also pretty straightforward and was done more or less according to the service manual.

    Warn recommends using light machine oil rather than grease on the inside of the end cap where the sliding ring gear rides to minimise difficulty in free-spooling so that's what I did. To this end one should also try not to be overenthusiastic with grease application on the other gearbox components, just fill the teeth. Fill the sliding ring gear teeth with Aeroshell 64 (or your gearbox grease of choice) and insert the gear into the end cap. Make sure the orientation is correct; the grooved section should be on top.

    Put some silicone lubricant on the clutch lever o-ring, reinstall the clutch lever assembly and tighten up the detent screw. The clutch lever eccentric should align with the grooved face on the sliding ring gear. When installed, test that it moves the ring gear as it should.

    Using machine oil again, lubricate the sun gear shaft and insert it into the bushing in the end cap.

    Fill all the teeth of the first stage carrier with Aeroshell 64, put a little machine oil on the gear bushings and place it back in the housing. Ditto the second stage carrier. Inserting the hex shaft into the sun gear and twisting can help get things aligned when you do this; when the carriers are seated correctly take the shaft out again for now.

    Lightly grease the thrust washer with Aeroshell 64 and install onto the housing with the beveled edge facing up. Sit the new gasket in place so the holes align.

    Grease and lubricate the third stage gear set like the other stages. Install with the splined side facing up. Grease the ring gear teeth and install onto the third stage, making sure the index marks that you made line up and you can see daylight through the holes. If you have no index marks for whatever reason you just need to make sure both the teeth and screw holes line up at the same time, which can take a little trial and error but isn't too taxing.

    Grease the drive spline teeth and insert it into the carrier.

    Line up the second gasket on the ring gear. If everything looks good line up the index mark on the drum support and and wind up the screws. I used zinc anti-seize on the threads again.

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