The motor end cap has a piece of insulating paper glued to it. There wasn't much glue holding mine down so I carefully removed the paper in one piece with the intention of reusing it. The cap then got the wire brush / abrasives treatment to remove all the white corrosion.
I removed the A-terminal stud and undid the T50 torx screws that fasten the stator winding clamps to the motor housing. I then removed the clamps, leaving the windings in place. Water had evidently been trapped under a couple of the clamps and that's where the worst corrosion was, although it was again better than I had expected. The clamps and torx screws went into vinegar and I cleaned up the inside of the housing with a wire brush and abrasives, being careful not to damage or disturb the windings. The clamps also got some sandpaper after the vinegar soak.
The surfaces where the brush holder and motor housing mate together form the main electrical earth return path so you need to make sure these surfaces are nice and clean, and that they fit together nicely. I gave them a good wire brush followed by sandpaper with a block to keep it more or less flat and this seemed to work quite well.
The drum support was also wire brushed. A lot.
Everything was then sprayed liberally with electrical cleaner. The bearing in the drum support was pretty good so I was careful to keep the cleaner away from it to preserve the internal greasing.
If your bearing/s are stuffed you can get a new armature bearing (Warn 98499) but it seems like you have to buy the entire drum support to get the support bearing (Warn 25985). Or if you're pulling them out anyway you could just measure them with a pair of calipers and find some that fit. I'm sure people have done this but I couldn't find the specs posted anywhere when I looked. The other option is to prize off the bearing covers to service them but the covers on this type tend to get mangled whenever I've attempted it so I thought better, not to mention considerably easier, just to leave them alone.
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