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Thread: Warn XD9000 rebuild with Albright solenoid & dash control

  1. #31
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    In the case of the dash switching you definitely don't want it live all the time or energised purely with the ignition. One way or another it should only be live when you deliberately switch it on. You also probably don't want it to be your only control for the winch.

    That aside and speaking exclusively with regard to producing the control signals, there are a couple of common ways of doing it. The first, which I opted for, uses a momentary-off-momentary SPDT (single pole double throw) switch. The second uses two switches: an on-on SPST (single pole single throw) to select winch out/in and a single pole momentary push button switch to activate the winch.

    For the first option, power comes off your 5A controller fuse to the switch. This type of switch at rest is always off. Pushing up on the switch will send power to Albright spade terminal 2 (winch out) until the switch is released. Pushing down will send power to Albright spade terminal 1 (winch in) until released. For the second option, power runs from the fuse through the push button switch, which is again always off when it's at rest, to the out/in switch which is either position A on (winch out) or position B on (winch in). The out/in switch directs power to Albright spade terminal 1 or 2 depending on the switch position whenever the button is pressed.

    I've also seen examples where people have installed two momentary push button switches for winch in/out. This is ok if you're using a genuine DC88P because if both buttons are pressed at once the unit will default to 'off', but the knockoff units may not have that feature and in my opinion this method isn't as tidy as the others.

    A malfunction here could get a little ugly so the switch/es used for this should ideally not be junk and be rated for at least 10A or so at 12VDC, remembering our load is only about 2.5A and our fuse is 5A. I think most of the typical Carling types used for this are 20A. The one I used is a 28VDC/15A SPDT mom-off-mom lever type toggle switch certified to 10,000 cycles (Apem 3537003N000).

    3500-series.jpg

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by genghis View Post
    <snip> And it is a Defender; I'm more concerned about someone using a spoon to open the door and drive it away.
    I hope you have a concealed GPS tracker .

  3. #33
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    Having three different winch controls is perhaps a bit extreme but once I decided I wanted two it didn't make much difference to anything.

    Install locations for the cable remote socket (front grille area, RHS) and wireless receiver (near the solenoid unit under the bonnet, LHS) were taken into account when deciding how best to wire things up.

    Working backwards from the Albright spade connectors, I want all three switches delivering their signals to terminals 1 and 2. To do this I used a 20A six circuit terminal block with jumpers (Blue Sea Systems 2406 and 9218). It's located with the solenoid unit and wireless receiver so I also used it to connect those grounds to the winch motor ground.

    The four yellow wires on the left, which are linked by a jumper, connect the winch in feeds to DC88P terminal 1. Connections are:
    * Terminal block to DC88P terminal 1
    * Terminal block to Warn controller socket green
    * Terminal block to wireless receiver yellow
    * Terminal block to dash control terminal A3 (bottom terminal)

    The three black wires in the middle are also linked by a jumper and are ground wires as follows:
    * Terminal block to DC88P terminal 3
    * Terminal block to wireless receiver black
    * Terminal block to winch motor ground

    The last four linked white wires are the winch out feeds:
    * Terminal block to DC88P terminal 2
    * Terminal block to Warn controller socket black
    * Terminal block to wireless receiver white
    * Terminal block to dash control terminal A1 (top terminal)

    076_cr.jpg

  4. #34
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    The positive feeds from the 5A fuse to the three controllers are governed by another switch on the dash. This control selector switch only allows power to flow to one controller at a time. For me, this is a DPDT (double pole double throw) on-on-on toggle switch (Apem 3544121N00); I'll be sending power to this switch with the isolator so I don't need an 'off' position. If you've chosen to go without an isolator then this is where you'd add functionality to cut power to all your controllers as suggested by @goingbush. If you only want two controllers it'd be easy use an SPDT on-off-on version instead of my switch. Or just add an additional SPST on-off switch before the control selector. If you are using an isolator but you only have two controllers you might want an SPST on-on version. Plenty of options.

    The main reason I decided to put an isolator in is that I wanted a remote switch to instantly and reliably cut the power to both the winch and peripherals in an emergency. You might recall that I'm only switching the voltage side with these controllers, and with the Albright unit I no longer have redundant solenoids to fall back on if one fails, so already I'm missing a couple of safety measures that the Warn engineers evidently thought were important. Couple that with a bunch of added components and I felt like the risk was steadily mounting, so the isolator is my get-out-of-jail-free card if anything goes wrong.

    I probably wouldn't have bothered with any isolator installation that doesn't achieve this functionality, I would have just put a switch on the controller power instead. If we ignore the safety shutdown capability and the controller power switching, all the isolator's doing is switching potential on and off to a metre or two of cable between the battery and the solenoid unit under the bonnet. I don't care much one way or the other about that section of cable having or not having electrical potential so I struggle to see the point of it. Even if I did see the point, I wouldn't fit an expensive manual switch in the battery box because if I'm going into the battery box anyway I can just disconnect/reconnect the cable for free. I also wouldn't fit a manual switch anywhere else (like somewhere I can actually reach it) because I don't want heavy cable all over the place and, on principle, I want the isolation to occur at the battery where it belongs. So, for me, it had to be a remote switch. And it had to be able to reliably switch the worst case scenario current whilst under load.

    And that's the thing with isolators: they really have to be absolutely bulletproof or you're just building a failure point into your system with not much payoff. Personally I wouldn't consider anything under about a 350A continuous rating from a reputable manufacturer so be prepared to get your wallet out if you want one.

    For my requirements I managed to snag a Blue Sea Systems 7700 for an unusually good price and it is truly a beast. Overkill? Erm, yes. 500A continuous and 10,000 cycle switching capacity under a 300A load... If something fails in my design it surely won't be this thing. It also has a lockable manual override control on top of the unit and it comes with a nice little panel switch that has an LED state indicator. It's all very extravagant and largely unnecessary but it made me feel a bit better about the safety factor.

    So, when the winch is energised control power flows from the isolator through the 5A fuse to the control selector switch, which then directs it only to the selected controller.

    3500.png 7700.jpg 2145.png

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