Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 34

Thread: Warn XD9000 rebuild with Albright solenoid & dash control

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Warn XD9000 rebuild with Albright solenoid & dash control

    PART 1: WARN XD9000 STRIP & REBUILD

    I bought this particular winch with a roller fairlead (Warn 5724 or something very similar) off eBay for not much in 2009 and bolted it up to my 300TDi Defender 130 without checking, servicing, cleaning or otherwise doing anything to it. It looked ok and worked ok at the time and that’s how it stayed, at least the working ok part. It got used a handful of times a year for various lifting tasks, pulling trees over and moving them around and also very occasionally for unsticking stuck vehicles. For 12 years it performed flawlessly right up until I disconnected it the other day while I was doing some other work that involved removing the bull bar and decided to give it some love.

    I'm dividing the project into parts; this part deals with the XD9000 strip and rebuild. Later I will cover the design and install of the Albright solenoid, which is going under the bonnet, and switching components including a dash control.

    There are quite a few resources out there to assist with servicing the XD9000 or whatever winch you have. Those that I found most helpful include
    * the XD9000 Service Manual from Warn, which I got from here: DNA Knowledge Base :: Warn mid frame service manual for M6000, M8000 and XD9000
    * the XD9000 Replacement Parts list: https://international.warn.com/Attac...ownloadId=1871
    * some useful modifications and recommendations as well as details on how to reset the brake mechanism if you unwind it: http://4wdstuff.davejones.com.au/sub...%20rebuild.pdf
    * and some awesome rebuild write-ups here: How to rebuild a low mount Warn step by step | Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum
    * here: Warn XD9000 Full Rebuild
    * and here: https://www.wanderingtrail.com/Repai...warnwinch.html

    The patrol4x4.com write-up by Leethal is particularly good but unfortunately the photos are no longer accessible, which was part of the inspiration for writing this. At the time of writing you can still see Leethal's photos by doing a Google image search for something like "patrol4x4 how to rebuild a low mount warn leethal", but you can no longer see them in the actual posts unfortunately.

    Not too many tools required for this job in theory. Below is a pretty comprehensive list of what I ended up using but your mileage may vary:
    - long nose pliers – for extracting the brake
    - long nose and snub nose vice grips – for clamping the brake
    - circlip pliers small and mid-size – for roller fairlead and brake respectively
    - in-hex 5/32” and 1/4” – I got away with an allen key for the 5/32” (gearbox housing and clutch lever) but I needed a socket and breaker bar for the 1/4” tie rod screws
    - multi-grip pliers – for the tie rods
    - propane or etc torch – for the tie rods…
    - in-torx T50 socket or etc - for the stator winding screws in the motor housing
    - hex sockets and/or spanners 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16”, ½” and 9/16” – 5/16” for the solenoid housing cover screws, 3/8” for the motor bolts, 7/16” for the solenoid housing mounting bolt (mine was mounted on a single bolt and it was so rusted that it snapped off), ½” for the flange nuts on the motor terminals and 9/16” for the mounting bolts
    - medium phillips and small flat blade screwdrivers – phillips for removing the winch cable termination screw and flat blade for the brush housing bus bar screw and cleaning up the commutator grooves; maybe an old medium flat blade or small pry bar as well to help with getting the main housing pieces apart
    - mallet – for making uncooperative stuff cooperate
    - wire and parts cleaning brushes – for cleaning stuff and getting rid of rust
    - sanding block – for sanding surfaces flatish
    - centre punch – for marking stuff; a Sharpie doesn’t cut it
    - utility knife blade – for removing the old gaskets
    - parts washing container/s

    Consumables and PPE. One could do the job with a much shorter list but here’s what ended up on my bench:
    - kerosene – for cleaning stuff
    - white vinegar – for removing surface rust and etching
    - methylated spirits – for painting prep etc
    - Inox MX3 – for lubrication/corrosion protection/loosening of stuck rusty crap
    - Inox MX4 – for heavy-duty protection from corrosion
    - Chemtech Fertan – rust converter mainly for steel housing parts that you just couldn’t be arsed cleaning up and painting
    - Aeroshell 64 – present day equivalent of the gearbox grease specified by Warn
    - light machine oil – specified by Warn for some parts; I used Singer Oil
    - Morey's Red-i EPMP2 grease – for drum bushings
    - CRC Lectra Clean – for cleaning motor parts and painting prep
    - CRC Red Urethane Seal Coat – for motor internals
    - Loctite LB 8801 silicone lubricant – for fairlead bushings and motor assembly; can also be used as dielectric grease
    - Loctite SI 598 black silicone sealant – for sealing up unnecessary holes
    - Loctite LB 8044 zinc anti-seize – for steel threads in aluminium (i.e. tie rods, motor bolts); this stuff isn’t commonly available but silver grade anti-seize is fine instead; don’t use copper in these situations
    - Loctite LB 8008 C5-A copper anti-seize – I used this where copper anti-seize will work (steel threads in steel) but silver grade is fine here too; zinc works too but I like to save mine for where it's needed
    - Chemtools GalMax 93 – for priming the drum
    - Chemtools GalMax NPR Gloss Black – for painting the drum
    - 3M ScotchBrite pads
    - 600gr abrasive paper
    - respirator with organic vapour filters – painting
    - goggles – painting
    - nitrile gloves – for ick
    - rags and paper towels

    The replacement parts I needed were:
    - housing gaskets, set of two (Warn 98274)
    - mounting nuts (Warn 13697)
    - mounting bolts - mine are longer than standard because I have spacer plates between the bull bar and winch to improve the fitment; grade 8 zinc coated 3/8” x 1-1/2” coarse thread matches the Warn items (6960, which are 1-1/4”)
    - drum bushings (Warn 98349) – these were fine but I replaced them anyway
    - thrust washer (Warn 98373) – old one of these was also fine but I ordered it before I knew that and had to fork out for a pack of two to replace it
    - tie rod screws – the genuine tie rod screws for this model (Warn 60451) are thread cutters, but since I wasn’t replacing the tie rods and the threads are already tapped I replaced them with standard 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 18TPI grade 12.9 socket head cap screws

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    DISASSEMBLY.

    So I took the bull bar off and removed the winch and fairlead from the bar by undoing the mounting bolts and snapping off the single rusty bolt that was barely holding the solenoid housing to the bar. I removed the original pin clevis hook from the wire rope, liberated the fairlead and removed all the wire rope from the drum.

    Dismantling the fairlead is just a matter of removing all the roller circlips. The pin holes in the circlips were quite small and I had to use a downsized pair of pliers to fit them, but straightforward apart from that. Getting the bushes out of the rollers would have been nice but I quickly gave up on that idea. I had some thoughts about replacing them with bronze but couldn’t find the specs anywhere and didn’t want to wreck the old ones getting them out without a replacement assured. A brand new Warn roller fairlead complete runs about $200 so you have to weigh these things up. The frame was badly rusted and was put aside for sandblasting. The rollers and circlips went into vinegar for 24 hours or so to remove surface corrosion before being cleaned up with wire brushes and ScotchBrite pads. I also treated the inside of the rollers, which I couldn’t see or access very effectively, and circlips with rust converter to try and get a bit more life out of them. The mounting hardware was all cactus so I ordered new bolts, spring washers and square nuts.

    IMG_6180.jpg IMG_6190.jpg IMG_6398.jpg IMG_6401.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Now with the winch on the bench, I removed all the leads from the motor terminals and put the solenoid housing and wiring aside. Like I said it had been working fine when I took it off so I was initially planning on changing out the rusted housing chassis and refurbishing the existing box, but in the end I decided to just toss it and replace with an Albright unit in the engine bay. More on that later.

    I was shocked to find that the motor terminals and hardware were actually in pretty good nick – those Warn rubber terminal boots seem to really work quite well. The 130 spent years on Cape York so the whole show got dunked in mud and cack on a regular basis, but there was just some very light corrosion on the flange nuts and even the coloured paint was still fresh-looking on the end of more or less pristine terminal studs. The big torx screws that hold the stator winding clamps to the motor housing weren’t so good (don’t undo those yet).

    IMG_6405.jpg IMG_6464.jpg IMG_6468.jpg IMG_6473.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Next undo some of the tie rod screws if you can. Typically these are not easy to budge but if you’re lucky like I was you’ll be able to get at least two of them undone. For these first two all I had was an allen key which I supplemented with a nearby length of copper pipe for some leverage. I went out and bought a 1/4" in-hex socket before attempting the last two. In retrospect it’s probably best to order new tie rods and screws and cut the old ones off with a hack saw if they give you too much grief. Chances are you’ll smash up the tie rods trying to hang onto them with multi-grips getting the last two screws out and they’ll end up looking like crap even if they didn’t look too bad when you started.

    Anyway the two screws on the gearbox end came free for me first so I separated the gearbox and drum assemblies from the motor and left the other two screws for later. Things can vary a bit with which parts remain connected to which when you do this but it doesn’t matter. When I did it the hex shaft remained in the brake mechanism inside the drum, the drive spline also stayed in the drum and the brake coupler came out on the motor shaft. Happy days.

    IMG_6476.jpg IMG_6477.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Before dismantling the gearbox housing parts mark all three along one of the screw lines with a centre punch so you can line them up again. I did this with a Sharpie in the first instance as per the Warn manual but if you’re going to wash everything or repaint your housing parts that’s clearly a waste of time. If you wash your marks off or don’t do it at all it’s not the end of the world but marking does save some faffing around during reassembly.

    When you’re done marking undo all the cap screws holding the gearbox together and coax off the end drum support with a mallet and/or lever as required. Again, I was expecting the worst but things weren’t too bad. The grease obviously wasn’t greasing anymore and there were a few spots of corrosion on top of the stage three carrier and outer parts of the sliding ring gear but nothing too dramatic considering the prevailing conditions of abuse and neglect over fifteen years or so.

    Take the ring gear off the end housing exposing the third stage carrier and toss whatever is left of the old gaskets.

    IMG_6512.jpg IMG_6526.jpg IMG_6527.jpg IMG_6529.jpg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Take the gearbox apart piece by piece. In approximate order these pieces will be the third stage carrier, thrust washer, second stage carrier, first stage carrier, sun gear and the sliding ring gear. Undo the clutch lever detent screw and remove the clutch lever assembly (lever, o-ring retainer and o-ring) being careful not to damage the o-ring if you’re reusing it. It’s a strange square spec thing and the only way to replace it as far as I know is to order a complete new lever assembly so I reused the old one.

    At this point I also took the drive spline and hex shaft out and removed the old bushes from the drum. I put them with all the gearbox parts in a tub full of kerosene gave everything a thorough clean.

    IMG_6530_cr.jpg IMG_6532_cr.jpg IMG_6533_cr.jpg IMG_6537.jpg IMG_6545.jpg IMG_6546_cr.jpg IMG_6550.jpg IMG_6571.jpg IMG_6561_cr.jpg IMG_6567.jpg IMG_6575.jpg IMG_6637 2_cr.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    While the gearbox components were taking a bath I set about removing the brake mechanism. The brake works by using a spring to apply outward pressure to the drum and if you just pull it out the spring unwinds and has to be reset manually. I was hoping to avoid this and I did; avoiding it is probably the best thing to do unless you really want to take the brake apart. Resetting the spring can be done if necessary as per the Dave Jones link posted above.

    To get it out I cleaned up the end of the drum where the brake tangs are visible using a ScotchBrite pad then squeezed the tangs together with a pair of long-nose pliers and pulled it some of the way out. At that point I let it go and clamped the tangs on one side with some slightly-shorter-nose vice grips that wouldn’t reach when the brake was in its original position. I then continued to extract it and for some added security, once the tangs were fully exposed outside the drum but the section with the shoes was still captive within the drum, I clamped the tangs on the other side with another pair of vice grips before removing the brake completely. The other way to do this is by sliding the brake out into an appropriately sized length of tube to keep it all together (see the Warn manual). I opted for the clamping method because it gives you access to the brake for inspection and cleaning, and also that particular diameter tube wasn’t the easiest thing to lay my hands on.

    Take the shoes off and wash them in methylated spirit or brake cleaner – no kero or oils. Some people might be a bit particular about oils on the mechanism itself as well but the amount of corrosion present when I took it out convinced me otherwise. It remained clamped the entire time it was out of the drum and was soaked in vinegar before being cleaned up with ScotchBrite and 600 grit paper. I did remove the circlip and washer as part of this clean up before putting it back together and giving it the Fertan treatment to put a stop to any rust still lurking in there, then I gave it a light spray with MX3. Before reinstalling I gave the shoe seats a good clean with methylated spirit and paper towels, and made sure there wasn’t any excess oil present elsewhere that might contaminate the brake surfaces.

    The now empty drum was also soaked in vinegar for a day or two before some wire brushing and abrasives. This was good enough for the inside which eventually came up nice and shiny. The outside of the drum had some stubborn corrosion spots so I painted it with Fertan a couple of times along with the brake mechanism.

    IMG_6640.jpg IMG_6641.jpg 001_cr.jpg 003_cr.jpg 017.jpg 010.jpg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    After the kerosene all the internal gearbox parts, the drive spline and the hex shaft were cleaned up with abrasives as required. I went to town on the aluminium drum support with a wire brush to get rid of all the white corrosion along with more or less all of the remaining paint. I had initially planned to paint the housing parts but instead I went with the 'worn Warn' badass bare aluminium / patchy paint / rust converter look. The aluminium end housing wasn't too bad anyway so it got to keep most of its paint. The steel ring gear was treated with rust converter on some external corrosion areas.

    In the end it all looked good enough for me.

    The one thing I did paint was the drum. I had new drum bushes by this stage so I repurposed the old ones to mask off the drum interior and bush contact surfaces. It then got a GalMax 93 undercoat followed by GalMax NPR Gloss Black.

    007.jpg 009.jpg 012.jpg 016.jpg 023.jpg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So back to the motor end.

    The brake coupler came off without too much fuss, just a couple of light taps to loosen it up. It was completely serviceable, I just gave it a quick clean where some corrosion from the brake mechanism had stained it. No worries.

    Those pesky tie rods however...

    I *eventually* got these undone using a 1/4" in-hex socket on the end of a two foot breaker bar, a map-pro torch, a pair of multi-grips with the jaws wrapped in a toweling rag to minimise damage and about half a can of MX3. Add a dash of colourful language and voila.

    I got stuck into the rods with some sandpaper and ScotchBrite to tidy them up a bit afterwards. They still look a little bit trashed on close inspection, but that's not unlike the rest of the external parts or the vehicle for that matter. They also have more of a brushed aluminium finish now.

    IMG_6506_cr.jpg 24_cr.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    32
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Undo and remove the two long bolts securing the motor assembly to the end drum support with a 3/8" socket or spanner. This should allow you to separate the end cap, motor housing and drum support.

    Undo the small slotted screw connecting the copper A-terminal stud strap to the brush holder.

    There are four plastic support tabs holding the armature bearing inside the brush holder which are easily broken off, so the next step should be performed carefully: grab hold of the motor shaft and firmly pull the armature from the housing. If it seems like you might break the bearing tabs off they can possibly be accessed and manipulated, with some difficulty and a suitable tool, through the four holes in the end of the brush housing.

    025_cr.jpg 026.jpg 027.jpg 028.jpg

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!