my my Mick you have been busy
Ok here's a project a few of you early 110 owners may be interested in.
It involves removing the factory fitted (in Australia) air conditioning system in favour of the original Land Rover cooling system.........the vents in the firewall.
So most air conditioned 110 County's look like this inside...
So the first thing you will need to do is remove the dash. All of it.
It will then look like this.......
Now you can see the vent covers that are spot welded to the firewall.
More on this part later.....
Next remove the old air con/heater assembly from the engine bay along with the compressor and condensor etc. Check your workshop manual for detailed instruction on this part. Once removed it should look like this...
Make sure you block off the heater hoses from the engine with some "bling" glass stoppers like the ones I made.
So.....whats next?
The bottom section of the dash should look like this......
You'll notice that the air conditioning ducting system is attached to the bottom section of the dash. Unscrew it from the bottom section. It will then look like this......
Next week we will attach the "new" dash tray (which will replace the air con duct system) ,fit the "new" heater assembly from a Defender and then drill out all those spot welds from the firewall.
Stay tuned for the next update.
Cheers
Mick
1999 Land Rover 110 Defender TD5 Cab Chassis
1985 Land Rover 110 County 4.6 EFI V8
1993 Track Trailer camper
my my Mick you have been busy
130's rule
Pig 2.0 in the making mate.
Cheers
Mick
1999 Land Rover 110 Defender TD5 Cab Chassis
1985 Land Rover 110 County 4.6 EFI V8
1993 Track Trailer camper
Well......not a pig this time.
A true Land Rover. Not a Pretender.
Cheers
Mick
1999 Land Rover 110 Defender TD5 Cab Chassis
1985 Land Rover 110 County 4.6 EFI V8
1993 Track Trailer camper
YAY.................
Mick is building a Defender......
sadly it will never be the same......
I have a disc rear end that would look Trick in that.......
D110V8D
I recently did this to my 110, with care you can drill out the spot welds without touching the bulkhead metal. If anyone interested i have a document covering all the parts required for conversion.
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