I now have my new CDL linkage installed & working fine. Easy job, took about 2 hours all-up.
Regarding the wire that needs to be cut to avoid the traction control / hill descent issues, which wire is it?
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I now have my new CDL linkage installed & working fine. Easy job, took about 2 hours all-up.
Regarding the wire that needs to be cut to avoid the traction control / hill descent issues, which wire is it?
This is from the Ashcrofts Engineering websiteQuote:
Originally Posted by SmokyBear
To finish off the job...
1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out
2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.
3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.
4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!
5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.
Please note :
This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.
To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged
Baz.
baz,
nice job mate, dont know why they ever took the the bloody thing out in the first place ???
cheers
great tutorial bloke....
Just querying on the wire that disables the TC/ABS...where is it and what colour? I was wondering if you could cut it and put a switch on it to enable/disable it at call without having to turn off the engine or disabling your CDL...for example, going up a hill with CDL/no TC/ABS then going down again using CDL/descent control (descent control wont work if TC/ABS are disabled.)
Bit af a mind-job...sorry!
anyone done anything like this?
By the way, if youre a broke bloke like me do what i did...drill a small hole in the gear box tunnel and made a makeshift lever coming through out of a paint tin handle and the knob off a car cigarette lighter! Its a bit awkward to reach dowm to the floor but will suffice until i can afford to do it properly!
Hi Gooddog,
Taken from the ashcroft transmissions website
To finish off the job...
1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out
2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.
3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.
4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!
5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.
Please note :
This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.
To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged
Aaron
What would you expect to pay for the D2A CDL shift mechanism?
For the original factory bit, i.e., cables etc about $600 I think. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaker
Thats seems to be the going rate from most places, if you can get a hold of one.
PM me if you want one, I know where there are a couple.
Will the actuator assembly off 96 Disco 1 fit a 2000 TD5 Manual?
Hi shaker, i don't think it will, the D1 has a linkage system and i don't think there is enough room in the trans tunnel for it to work properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaker
You would also need to modify it for it to fit, the bracket is different as is the mounting place.
I reckon if you can get the D2a cable and mounting bracket, i can't see why you couldn't modify a D1 lever too activate it.
Last time i priced a cable assembly it was $175 from LR, THE D2a LEVER was over $600 and that didn't include the gear knob:eek:
Baz.