Underside rust/salt damage

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ACCO Andrew

Has anyone used or looked at the electronic CAT system? it's a little box that goes in the engine compartment and produces a negative charge throughout the vehicle which (supposedly) stops the chemical reaction that is rusting...

I got one "thrown in" when i purchased a new Prado... living near the beach and dunking the boat i figured it was worth a try... Haven't had any rust yet - three years later... but who knows if it's because of the CAT???

---

Strange never heard of such a product. Be intresting to see how much one would cost.

Im guessing not that expensive, if so maby a combination of both rust removal/re-paint and CAT.

You got a link to a site selling one by any chance andrew?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tobes-b

Strange never heard of such a product. Be intresting to see how much one would cost.

Im guessing not that expensive, if so maby a combination of both rust removal/re-paint and CAT.

You got a link to a site selling one by any chance andrew?

---

I'm not Andrew but I have done a bit of research into electronic rust prevention.

http://www.erps.com.au/contents.php?Pid=1&Sid=1

The link above is the product I looked at for our Defender when it was new. I have no affiliation with them, nor did I buy or receive their product.

What I found was the metal to be protected had to be rust free from the start and paint in good condition.

Yearly inspections had to be carried out by one of their agents to keep the warranty.

I read that this type of product works to a limited extent as long as the system remains undamaged and working as designed.

It's interesting that there is a steel bridge crossing Wynnum Creek in Brisbane that uses similar technology but power supply is not an issue.

A friend of mine had this type of product fitted to his second hand Prado only a few months ago. He is a very frequent visitor to Fraser Island so it will be interesting to see if it works for him.

Price quoted for our Defender was around $600 fitted and that was in 1998.

A good friend of mine is a Marine Electrician and is sceptical of benefits of this type of product as he sees many fitted to steel hulled boats.

Hope this helps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barryj

A good friend of mine is a Marine Electrician and is sceptical of benefits of this type of product as he sees many fitted to steel hulled boats.

---

Systems used in marine applications where the metals are immersed are cathodic, whereas the car based systems that I have looked into are capacitive.

Don't know whether they work or not, but I spoke to some corrosion specialists and they suggested that they might work :o I heard some very positive anecdotal reports and decided to try one. Tell you in 10 years whether I think it's helped or not :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

Systems used in marine applications where the metals are immersed are cathodic, whereas the car based systems that I have looked into are capacitive.

Don't know whether they work or not, but I spoke to some corrosion specialists and they suggested that they might work :o I heard some very positive anecdotal reports and decided to try one. Tell you in 10 years whether I think it's helped or not :)

---

I must check with a mate of mine who had one installed over 6 years ago in his Mazda 323. Don't ask me why he did it in that car :no2:.

I know he had to have all rust cut out before the installers would fit the system.

It would be good to have a look at the Lifesavers vehicles on the Gold Coast. On the other hand they don't seem to keep them for too long.

The reason I didn't have one installed was that I can buy a lot of diesel and oil for the $600 quoted and I know that works.

I still have the can I mixed up in 1998, problem is that I accidentally filled my line trimmer with it by mistake! It still runs though :cool:.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barryj

I have used fish oil on my first car which was an XY Falcon. It stunk for months and eventually dried to a hard film that cracked away from metal allowing dust and water to be trapped = rust.

Fish oil is Ok as long as you re-apply every 12 months or so.

What I like about oil\diesel is that you can wipe it over with a kero rag if you want it off.

WD40 is one that I would not recommend as it evaporates too quickly and costs a lot for the area you want to do.

I have been meaning to try lanolin oil but so far have not. I've seen good reports on this.

---

Lanolin is a fantastic rust proofer BUT sand sticks to it like nothing else. I only use it for internal cavities now...........

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mark2

I only use it for internal cavities now...........

---

:eek:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mark2

Lanolin is a fantastic rust proofer BUT sand sticks to it like nothing else. I only use it for internal cavities now...........

---

If you spray it on a week or two before the sand trip then it doesn't.

Hi Utemad,
What particular lanolin product do you use ?.
Cheers,
Anthony.

It is made by Lanotec. You can buy it from Bunnings and comes in either a 750ml spray bottle (like ironing aid stuff) or in a 1 litre tin. Can get it in bigger containers but not from Bunnings.

Just make sure you apply in in thin amounts otherwise most of it will end up on the floor.

Costs about $20/L from Bunnings last I bought some.

I knopw someone who fitted one of the electronic rust preventioon system to a defender. It got some minor rust in the doors. IMHO it is a waste of money.

I use cold gal (97% zinc), combined with either fish oil or "heavy duty" lanotec. works well.