EGR removal...

the valve does restrict airflow marginally if yours is not leaking past the EGR and isnt sticking the butterfly simply removing and plugging the vac control lines will give minor improvements.

I did experiement with mine way back when I first found out about this but found no appreciable difference to preformance when all was working as intended. I didnt pass comment on it then as I believe that if I can do something to help the environment that doesnt cost me $$, ponies or shorten the life of something then Im all for it.

Its when your EGR fouls and begins causing problems that your going to curse the designers of it.

Removing and cleaning the seats of the existing unit and leaving it in place but not connected is the cheap option and has the benifit of if you get pulled by the environazi's you can just claim that it was done by a mechanic as part of a fault finding exercise and hes just forgotten to hook it back up.

Noticed you made mention of crud in intercoller ,so
Can't quite figure out how to post new thread yet so will pose question here. I have just replaced the injector harness ( used thread on this forum to seal it up before fitting)to try and stop the oil in wiring loom trick and while waiting for silatic to set on tappet cover gasket i removed the intercooler hose that goes onto the egr unit to discover that it has on oily film in the hose - is that normal?. My Td5 has done 124,000km but previous owner had a second hand low km (60,000km) motor supplied and fitted by Landrover dealer in Melbourne after original motor suffered total disintegration (94,000km) after leaking injector diluted oil too much to do its job properly. When second hand motor was fitted they also put a new turbo on ( all receipts provided $11,000 job)

a little bit of oil is normal, mainly because it comes in via the crank case ventilation system...

Mine was near on squeaky clean at the 100K km service but I advise flushing it out on a regular basis to stop excess corruption from slowing down its preformance.

My flush method requires several goes at it so in the order that Idid it in

1st flush is dieso
2nd is hot soapy water
3rd is hot water
4th is warm air for a couple of hours to dry it all out properly.

If you have any signs of goop or oil duing the hot water rinse repeat the whole process till thats coming out clean.

I used a large tower pipe on the inlet and outlet of the cooler and blew bursts of compressed air through from the lower of the 2 outlets to agitate everything as much as possable. The bursts of air were applied for each seperate fluid type.

If your going to that much effort ID also recomend that you goto the silicone hoses afterwards as Im fiarly sure that the existing hoses wont appreciate what happens very much. You should also fit blanking covers to the turbo outlet and inlet manifold

Thanks Dave,

That puts me at ease as I thought any oil in there wasn't a good sign for the Turbo. I may go one step further as it would probably be advantageous to fit a bigger transmission cooler before we head off next year to tour WA ( auto towing an "A" van) ,so will do the intercooler while it is all pulled to bits . Are there any other mods you would recommend as a preventative measure for such a trip and is there an aftermarket tranny cooler that fits without too much hassle ?

Much appreciated
Paul

full cooling system service with all the tests.

upgrade the cooler and new oils/filters all the way around

bigger intercooler naff the egr.

have the wheel bearings packed properly with new seals and stakenuts (or go back to the double locknut setup) while the hubs are off have the rotors skimmed/replaced and put new pads in while thats happening new brake lines and then clean up the ABS sensors and tone rings on the back end.


thats should see you right for a start.

for the transmission cooler there is nothing to stop you mounting a second cooler in series with the first, just remeber that you will need to up the transmission oil level by the amount that the cooler can hold.

Thanks again Dave,

Didn't think I would have to do so much to make this vehicle durable . Have already replaced one rear hub as it was leaking oil , but this was a complete unit (do you mean I should have pressed the bearings out and re greased them before fitting the hub?)
Have already changed the oils and filters and planned on doing the EGR removal soon as well as the coolant but will leave that until I remove radiator as it is starting to show a weep in the bottom right hand corner and needs attention. Is the standard radiator up to the job or does it need to be upgraded?
Are there good and bad replacement intercoolers or will any aftemarket replacement do and who would be the best supplier to source these from ?

Regards
Paul

no by repacking the bearings i mean simply removing the hubs and making sure that a, the bearings are ok and B you have a decent quantity of high quality grease in them. When I did big reds 100,000km service between 2 bearings in a hub I had bearly enough to pack a swivel bearing let alone a pair of hub bearings.

nope the standard radiator is up to the job providing its in good nick and the cooling system is ok a full check of the system should be done while your replacing it..

I havent really looked into the intercoolers so far but theres a couple of blokes who deal with them in here and so far the reports are all good.

plan your trip out add 10% and then subract from that your current ks from last service. if that number is over your next service interval reservice before you go thats not compulsory but its what I do and then i work the normal service intervals off of the ks at which the service work got done.

I have just installed EGR bypass kit. Thought it was all done but no.

I am getting a loud buzzing sound from the modulator on the left (see pic). It does not buzz at idle but starts to buzz when I take it for a drive. If I stop and turn the engine off it goes away and comes back again when I drive.

I have removed the 2 vacuum lines (blue) completely and blanked both outlets off at the modulator (see pic). Note: I unplugged all lines from both modulators to remove the 2 blue vacuum lines. Not sure if this broke vacuum or something?

Attachment 21499

I believe the 2 remaining green lines just go to filter box and 2 remaining yellow lines go to brake servo.

Not sure where I may have gone wrong help needed.

Also can the 2 remaining green lines be removed and the filter box end blanked?

Thanks
Kelly

The buzzing was too annoying so I deceided to unplug the power (green and black plugs) from both modulators. I left all the remaining vacuum plumbing for now so that brake servo vacuum is operational. Will probably remove modulators and EGR associated lines eventually when I replace the T piece brake servo line with the non-EGR version (i.e. no T-piece, part no. ANR 6916).

the buzzing noise is probably air leaking past the modulators, remove the suction lines from them and plug them with bal bearings or rivets.