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The part no. TD5Alive and others quote is a Discovery hose with T-Fitting. SQB000280 is the same vacuum pump to brake booster hose minus the T-fitting for EGR. If the ANR6916 hose didn't fit between booster and vac pump on your Defender then SQB000280 is unlikely to fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott oz
cheers
Paul
Offtrack - Thanks
The hunt still goes on for the vacuum pump to booster (no "T" piece for EGR) pipe for the TD5 Defender.
This thread I found on another site offers the same outcome but with a slightly different kit.
Both of these will help me when I finally get aroudn to doing this mod!!
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=25198
gconron,
Thanks for the post and reading the thread on the other site it looks like the manufacture of the vacuum pipe for the defender (minus the T) is out of business. So looks like getting a replacement without the "T" for the defender is highly unlikely.:(
Is there any reason that I cannot completely remove the EGR Modulator and all EGR Vacuum Tubing and apply a rubber blanking plug to the T-piece in the Brake-Servo tubing to maintain the integrity of the braking system?
Thinking of doing the EGR removal on my TD5, 2002, Deefer but have seen mixed advice.
Was going to buy this kit, as it looks alright: NEW Driven 2 Automotive Land Rover TD5 EGR Full Removal KIT Stunning ON Sale | eBay
My main point of confusion is that the above listing has this included:
- 2x Rubber EGR Solenoid Blanking Plugs (the EGR is ECU vacuum controlled, these plugs will make the ECU think that the EGR is still there so no fault codes or dashboard engine management warning lights appear)
The TD5 Alive guide just says to completely remove them so the system doesn't attempt to operate the EGR, as thus:
It is recommended that you disconnect the electrical connector(s) from the EGR modulator(s), to prevent vacuum from being applied to the now
redundant vac hose(s). The engine management will then sense there is no EGR system fitted, so will disable any attempts of EGR operation. The
modulator(s) are located on the right hand inner wing. Early models have just one, and later (EU3) models have two. Unplug the electrical
connectors only from the modulators. Leave all vac pipes in situ, attached to the modulators and brake servo pipe! This is for your safety, as
the brake assistance could be severely compromised by incorrect or inadequate fittings.
[ame]http://www.alivetuning.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/EGR-bypass-kit.pdf[/ame]
What have you all done? Have you blanked the connection so it thinks its there, or just unplugged it?
I completely removed my entire EGR system, wiring and all, and simply used a single blank at the vac line T piece.
It's what I'd recommend :)
Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
So, I quizzed the Ebay company about it and this is the response I got:
Thoughts?Quote:
Hi there,
our kit was developed many years ago and has been used worldwide in very large volume without issue.
The purpose to trick the ECU is not to make the vehicle act like it had an EGR on it, the purpose is to stop the engine management light coming on thinking there is a problem with the EGR (as its no longer working as its not there!)
I removed the vac hoses and egr and just used the 2 blanking plugs suppled with the kit one on each solenoid wiring still connected
Sent from my SM-G900F using AULRO mobile app
I first left the EGR solenoids in and blanked them off. After a while one of them started to randomly vibrate so hard you could feel it in the car while driving. So I have removed them all together now. Never had an issue with it or have an error code displayed.