G'day All, I fitted a Diahatsu 2.8lt engine to a Series 3 109 that I had about 18 years ago, I made my own adaptor plate and engine mounts, kept the original Land Rover transmission, fitted boosted brake assembly from a late model Series 3, it served me well till I bought a 110 AFAIK it's still going. It took me about 6 weeks from go to whoa, anyway cheers and good luck with your venture, Dennis
G'day All, He sounds just like me, if you can't get it make it LOL you soon learn that when you start making live steam model locomotives in 5" guage, cheers Dennis
PS I did draw my adaptor plate in full size back then, I'm reasonably conversant with Tech/drawing, still have my Tee square that I made back in 1962, although I had to borrow a very large T/square and board to do that particular job, only yesterday I had to resort to the drawing board again with my current project, drawing the item full size against the full sized background to check the fit etc and it worked .
A couple more pics. Isn't it always the way?
The more you pull off for a quick clean up, the more you find you had to remove anyway.
I'm still in dis-belief, at the thickness of the plastic in the left door.
It's a tiny little scratch, the arrowed line is the actual crack line in the paint.
Of course I had to pick at it didn't I. BUT.
I can fix that.
THEN.
Some silly bugger, put a Land Rover fuel tank bracket, right in the middle of where I want to put my ADR30 diesel tank.
Again, no problems. With a little help from my good buddy, the "red handled door stop", I can make it fit.
I think I'll have to find a hybrid name for it. There doesn't seem to be a lot of Land Rover bits going back inside the Land Rover shell.
Last edited by shorty943; 7th December 2007 at 11:50 AM.
If you can't get access to a metal folder, do next best.
Ask a mate to stand on it for you.
This is 2.5 mm steel checker plate, hand bent, (big hammer and a crow bar) to form the fuel tank protective cell. This will be mig welded between the outriggers on the chassis left side, rubber lined, then the fuel tank lowered into place and strapped down.
With the added bonus, off giving me a place to bolt the, modified F100 side steps.
(This checker plate, is going under all the "soft" bits.)
In order that the tank does not protrude below chassis level.
The left side foot well will need to be raised about 3 inches\75 mm, to clear all the doo-dads, and the pump, on the tank top.
I don't have a problem with that, I don't sit that side, and the dog has shorter legs than mine.
And I have nice, shiny, 3.something mm, "Ally" checker plate set aside for that little job.
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