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Thread: pto winch install

  1. #1
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    pto winch install

    Points of interest that may help others out, it still needs a little tweaking.........let us know what you think

    If you see something that is not right or that needs to be added let me know and i will adjust

    this is for a thomas unit for a 95 defender using a R380?? box...is that right

    Servicing the t-case/PTO drive
    • If you have recently serviced your t-case there is no need to drain before installing the PTO dive….however this will be the last easy straight forward change
    • If you do service the t-case refill the t-case prior to fitting the PTO it just make the process a little quicker and its easy to fill the filler plug with the PTO drive not fitted
    • When the PTO drive is fitted there is only just enough room between the PTO drive and the back of the t-case to get your ½in drive ratchet in to remove the filler plug taking into account the handbrake cable, you will now need a pump flex tube to fill the t-case
    • There is no drain or filler on the PTO drive, the PTO is filled by oil splashing in from the t-case
    • When you fit the PTO drive it needs to be filled with oil by the splash system therefore you need to overfill the t-case via the hole where the gear box/t-case temp sender is fitted on rangie’s and disco’s I think. If you look on the passenger side of the t-case right up the top you will see a bolt, around 15/16 ring spanner is required. I have no idea how much oil the PTO drive takes but I over filled the t-case by 1 litre and will check after a bit of driving
    • It does not take long for the oil to end up in the PTO drive as after only a couple of days I discovered my output seal and rear plate gasket were leaking oil
    • I could have pre filled the PTO drive prior to fitting but that would have meant more weight and with the angles maybe a bit of oil dripping down my arms
    Preparation of the PTO
    • Have a good look over
    • I recommend changing the bottom output seal Cost $6.00, Part No. TC12020 Size 3/4in x 1 1/4in i think
    • You could probably change in situ using a small seal hook/puller so that you don’t need to remove the backing plate. I need to remove the backing plate as it was leaking oil through the gasket
    • To remove the backing plate undo the 9 I think bolts. 10mm ring spanner required
    • The rear upper bearing was tight as buggery on the shaft, this along with a seal and a spacer/boss thingy on the end. I think it made it a little easier buy removing the bolt and boss. I managed to move the plate a bit with two screw drivers (a little bit of damage to the housing) and than needed a puller to remove completely. This process would be a little tougher insitu.
    • I damaged the gasket for the rear plate during the removal process so I made a new one using a manila folder…the largest piece of thin cardboard type material I could find
    • Inspect the chain and drive sprockets
    • Reassemble minus the seal as you may damage the seal when you refit the output shaft, remember to use a gasket sealant cause the last thing you need is for oil leaks and needing to remove the PTO drive again….
    • Fit the new seal
    • I also removed the detent and spring the on the engagement shaft and greased them
    • I could have filled the PTO drive prior to fitting but that would have meant more weight to lift up and hold in place while putting bolts in
    Preparation of the T-Case
    • Remove the rear inspection plate on the t-case, this will either be in two parts or as mine did three
    • You no longer need the cover plate and if yours is fitted with an oil slinger (thanks justinc) you need to remove this as well. Oil slingers were installed prior to the cross drilling of the gear assembly.
    • You will need the second plate with the bearing cone fitted, this is the bit that the oil slinger is fitted to
    • Inspect the bolt heads, any that are showing signs that the flats are starting to round off replace them as it is now a pain to fit and remove three of the bolts from this time on. 12mm and 14mm ring spanners are required
    • TIP ratchet ring spanners with the small off set are a good investment when fitting the PTO drive
    • Thanks to justinc again on the advice to inspect t-case gear to see if it had been modified. You need to pull the gear to the rear and slid off the main shaft, you should find four holes drilled between the gear and bearing, if not you need to get them drilled. Re-fit the gear
    Fitting the PTO drive to the t-case
    • Fit the second plate (bearing support) using gasket sealant
    • Lift and fit the PTO drive to the t-case
    • Its about now that you discover an exhaust mount is right in the way
    • I just cut the whole thing off
    • I put a little bit of loctite on the bolts prior to lifting the drive in place
    • This is where the ratchet ring spanners paid for themselves
    • I then overfilled the t-case by about 1lt
    Fitting the drive shaft
    • A whole new set of problems as the exhaust is in the way
    • Off to get a quote on a new exhaust
    • I am also rebuilding the drive shafts, new grease nipples and bearings etc
    Why do I take on these projects

    More to follow….over
    Last edited by weeds; 4th January 2008 at 04:18 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post

    Why do I take on these projects
    The very same reason we play golf mate.

    Simply to aggravate ourselves.

  3. #3
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    will put some words to the pics later




  4. #4
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    i ended up using the tjm bar, i was going to make a bar from scratch but that would have taken ages

    the tjm bar that i have is built from three pieces. i have not seen any others like it, i'm sure there would be a few other around. its made up of two square tubes that bolt onto the chassis to which the bullbar than bolts onto

    i shortern the two chassis brackets by approx 30mm to slightly improve aproach angle and square everthing up as the previous own had given the bullbar a good shunt

    the front and rear plates are mad from 5mm plate. the four bolts across the front only bolt the plate to the winch, the two vertical bolts secure the cradle to the chassis brackets

    i than cut the centre out of the bull bar where i guess an electric winch would bolt up to as nothing lined up. this worked a treat. i than welded a 10mm x 50mm bar across the front of the cradle, umm probably should have ran it right across, will see how it hold up. its all secured by the four 1/2in bolts on the front along with the six orginal bolts securing the chassis brackets

    the only thing outstanding is a way to engage the pto drive.....at the moment i will just put up with getting under the rig and engaging it as no cable came with the winch

    my plan is to fit an air operated ram that will plum into the air line going to my rear locker

    any pneumatic experts out there

    just need to give it all a good paint

  5. #5
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    [quote=weeds;711471

    ......the only thing outstanding is a way to engage the pto drive.....at the moment i will just put up with getting under the rig and engaging it as no cable came with the winch

    my plan is to fit an air operated ram that will plum into the air line going to my rear locker

    any pneumatic experts out there

    just need to give it all a good paint[/quote]

    The PTO winch (a Thomas) I had on my Series 3 was engaged via a knob on the front of the seat box between the hand brake & the transmission tunnel.
    You put the transfer box into neutral, pulled the handle out (towards the fire wall) then selected whichever gear you wanted.

    You may be able to make something up, keeping it nice & simple.
    '51 Series 1 80"
    '12 Defender 90


  6. #6
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    bump for Sly

  7. #7
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    Allestree , its all good.
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    Thanks Weeds, Im inspired now!.
    '99 Tdi 300 130 Twin Cab
    When I'm here I want to be out there.

  8. #8
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    it be just as easy to goto somewhere like ARB and get the actuator switch and a t piece for the reservior then put on a gutted gas strut with a spring to pull it back and braze a fitting for the line onto that.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Ebay's not a bad place to find air rams and the like at a good price aswell.

  10. #10
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    can you post some pics of how the shafts travel to the winch.
    i have a TD5 to get around

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