My take on the job:Quote:
Originally Posted by Disckombi
I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing
Printable View
My take on the job:Quote:
Originally Posted by Disckombi
I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing
The length of the bearing is not that critical as there is plenty of room behind the cover. The jd bearing protrudes about 5mm. What is critical is the measurement from the front face of the cover to the front face of the flange as this will locate the pulley and therefore the belt alignment.
Just be carefull to not apply too much force to the original flange as they are cast and will break if you look at it funny.
Yep, I've understood that part.Quote:
Originally Posted by jboot51
Reason for my enquiry re the length is to ascertain if this Transit bearing is the same as the LR bearing.
Looks identical, as does the flange.
Without taking mine out, I have point of reference to compare to the LR type if I go to the parts place to view the Transit bearing(and flange).
Flange is easy, I can mount it to the pulley or something.
Mine has a mil or two of movement in the bearing itself, but has had since I got the D1, 18+ months ago.
So looking to have the parts all ready to go and when I go to do it, I won't be stuck if something goes pear shaped. D1 is my daily .. and I currently have no access to any other vehicle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Well the Falcon bearing wins - just picked up an EA water pump $40.Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Now to get it all assembled.
Cheers
Just finished fitting the EA Ford water pump bearing - all went smoothly.
Measured the old bearing and cartridge length was 47mm and overall 73mm. Ford cartridge is 54mm long so protrudes 7mm into cover plus another 5mm for the cut-off stub shaft.
Regards removing the original LR flange - I did it by placing a couple of strips of 3mm flat, ground out to fit around the shaft, between the back of the flange and the face of the timing cover. Then supported inside of cover with a big socket and pressed the shaft inward out of the flange and continued to press the bearing itself out.
Re-assembly as previously described in thread, pressing bearing in from back and then pressing on flange
Cheers
Can you post the brand and part number of the ea ford pump.
I need a spare bearing and flange.
Water pump was GMB brand part no. W1040.
As mentioned elsewhere on thread, to avoid any chance of damage to beating, I split the pump casing with angle grinder.
As to using the Ford flange, I think there is something on the thread, but as it is a bit meatier than the LR flange might need some mods to achieve correct height of mounting face off timing case.
Cheers
Did mine today, I was changing the cambelt and found the bearing was notchy (also found the AC tensioner bearing shot too).
Anyway thought I would pass on what I found.
If I was to do it again I would buy the John Deere bearing as the most time was taken getting the bearing out of the Falcon pump. I split the casing of the Falcon pump by cutting with a reciprocating saw and then using a chisel. I had a hell of a time getting the Falcon flange off. The fange was difficult to remove off the old bearing too. I found it easier to cut the shaft off the old bearing with the flange attached then put flange in the press and push out the bearing stub.
I used a hot air gun to heat the front cover while applying pressure with a Supercheap press, I found an old weight off an exercise machine had the correct size hole to push the bearing through (I have a few hanging around I use for ballast in my race car). Anyway applied pressure and applied heat then it let go with a bang.
Trimmed up the Falcon bearing and put it in the freezer then headed of to the pub. Couple of hours later got home, heated the housing and the bearing pushed in pretty easily.
Attachment 150637Attachment 150638Attachment 150639
