TD5 Cylinder head removal - How to...

Mine was cracked in the No. 1 injector pot, so no amount of shaving would have helped ... :no2:

Cost of the head ................ $3200
Cost of the head bolts ......... $420

And the list goes on and on ............. :wallbash::wallbash:

Throw in a replacement Air Flow Meter for good measure .....

All up grand total $6325.50 :BigCry:

Labour only amounted to $1320, which I guess is not bad considering.
At least I'm confident the work was done by the best in Brisvegas ...
When it comes to serious mech work .... I'm a complete bloody waste of skin, oxygen thieving luddite mongrel POS.


:angel::wasntme: :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rosco

Mine was cracked in the No. 1 injector pot, so no amount of shaving would have helped ... :no2:

Cost of the head ................ $3200
Cost of the head bolts ......... $420

And the list goes on and on ............. :wallbash::wallbash:

Throw in a replacement Air Flow Meter for good measure .....

All up grand total $6325.50 :BigCry:

Labour only amounted to $1320, which I guess is not bad considering.
At least I'm confident the work was done by the best in Brisvegas ...
When it comes to serious mech work .... I'm a complete bloody waste of skin, oxygen thieving luddite mongrel POS.


:angel::wasntme: :D

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Hard luck there Rosco, I feel your pain:(:(:(

JC

Ouch.... Sorry to hear that

IMHO (and some of this is based off talking to some of the metal smiths that do the chemical re-hardning of aircraft parts) I wouldnt do a skim unless I had already found a place that would do a re-hardening.

heres an experiment

get a big bowl of sugar and slowly heat it till it caramelises and then let it set into a big flat plate. you should be now looking at one big chunk of very sugary candy. once its cooled to about room temp put it in the fridge.

once its cool take a metal chisel and try to push the point along the surface like you would if you were trying to cut a groove into it as if it was being machined by a mill cutter or surface grinder.

If you get it all right you should see some very fine crystalisation under and around the cut. Exactly the same thing happens when you machine some hardened metals and from what IVe been able to nut out with the metal beaters the LR head should fall into this class..

If I was going to get a td5 head machined I would first get it softened then machine it and then finally rehardened.

hopefully you wont have to worry about it...

Very interesting analogy Davo :thumbsup:

Our head needed 9thou taken off, the mechanic said it's was too much, so we opted for another head, $2500:(

Total price for us was just over $4200:(

The old head is in the garage as a reminder (call it a very large paper weight) too keep the correct coolent and check levels and for leaks on a regular basis.

Baz.

Hey, cracking tutorial, thanks very much.

Regards

Head Tester

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redback

"keep the correct coolent and check levels and for leaks on a regular basis.

Baz.

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Redback what coolant were you running.

Just run the regular OAT type coolant. If your worried about the head failing you should get a low coolant alarm as it usually is a drop in coolant that cooks the head. Check out Low Water Alarm Sensor. They sell a really easy to fit alarm for the Td5.

Also keep an eye out for discoloration of the coolant in the reservoir.

Angus

I'm currently running Redline with the inhibiters in it as apposed the Redline without.

I've got an engine watchdog and am considering what other gauges I'll fit. I was looking at the engine coolant level then brother said you may be better off using a low coolant alarm on the reservoir.
Logic being that if there is a loss of coolant the reservoir will drain first
:angel::angel: