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Thread: TD5 Cylinder head removal - How to...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,132
    Mine was cracked in the No. 1 injector pot, so no amount of shaving would have helped ...

    Cost of the head ................ $3200
    Cost of the head bolts ......... $420

    And the list goes on and on .............

    Throw in a replacement Air Flow Meter for good measure .....

    All up grand total $6325.50

    Labour only amounted to $1320, which I guess is not bad considering.
    At least I'm confident the work was done by the best in Brisvegas ...
    When it comes to serious mech work .... I'm a complete bloody waste of skin, oxygen thieving luddite mongrel POS.



  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,514
    Quote Originally Posted by Rosco View Post
    Mine was cracked in the No. 1 injector pot, so no amount of shaving would have helped ...

    Cost of the head ................ $3200
    Cost of the head bolts ......... $420

    And the list goes on and on .............

    Throw in a replacement Air Flow Meter for good measure .....

    All up grand total $6325.50

    Labour only amounted to $1320, which I guess is not bad considering.
    At least I'm confident the work was done by the best in Brisvegas ...
    When it comes to serious mech work .... I'm a complete bloody waste of skin, oxygen thieving luddite mongrel POS.



    Hard luck there Rosco, I feel your pain

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    6,078
    Ouch.... Sorry to hear that

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    25,082
    IMHO (and some of this is based off talking to some of the metal smiths that do the chemical re-hardning of aircraft parts) I wouldnt do a skim unless I had already found a place that would do a re-hardening.

    heres an experiment

    get a big bowl of sugar and slowly heat it till it caramelises and then let it set into a big flat plate. you should be now looking at one big chunk of very sugary candy. once its cooled to about room temp put it in the fridge.

    once its cool take a metal chisel and try to push the point along the surface like you would if you were trying to cut a groove into it as if it was being machined by a mill cutter or surface grinder.

    If you get it all right you should see some very fine crystalisation under and around the cut. Exactly the same thing happens when you machine some hardened metals and from what IVe been able to nut out with the metal beaters the LR head should fall into this class..

    If I was going to get a td5 head machined I would first get it softened then machine it and then finally rehardened.

    hopefully you wont have to worry about it...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,132
    Very interesting analogy Davo

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Helensburgh, in the Illawarra, like the Shire but with class
    Posts
    12,788
    Our head needed 9thou taken off, the mechanic said it's was too much, so we opted for another head, $2500

    Total price for us was just over $4200

    The old head is in the garage as a reminder (call it a very large paper weight) too keep the correct coolent and check levels and for leaks on a regular basis.

    Baz.
    VKS737 - Mobile 0478

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    2007 VW Golf Mk V TDi
    1973 Kawasaki H2-A 750
    2006 BMW R1200GS

    A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.

  7. #17
    Head Tester Guest
    Hey, cracking tutorial, thanks very much.

    Regards

    Head Tester

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Northern Beaches NSW
    Posts
    717
    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    "keep the correct coolent and check levels and for leaks on a regular basis.

    Baz.
    Redback what coolant were you running.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Belgrave, Victoria
    Posts
    1,615
    Just run the regular OAT type coolant. If your worried about the head failing you should get a low coolant alarm as it usually is a drop in coolant that cooks the head. Check out Low Water Alarm Sensor. They sell a really easy to fit alarm for the Td5.

    Also keep an eye out for discoloration of the coolant in the reservoir.

    Angus

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Northern Beaches NSW
    Posts
    717
    I'm currently running Redline with the inhibiters in it as apposed the Redline without.

    I've got an engine watchdog and am considering what other gauges I'll fit. I was looking at the engine coolant level then brother said you may be better off using a low coolant alarm on the reservoir.
    Logic being that if there is a loss of coolant the reservoir will drain first

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