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Thread: TD5 Cylinder head removal - How to...

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Bath, UK
    Posts
    2
    Great walkthrough there.

    i'm about to remove my td5 head as i think it's dropped a cylinder. head off first then see whats what.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    North Stradbroke Island
    Posts
    346

    Gasket Thickness

    In this tutorial it states that "the head gasket is a 1 hole one, but I will be putting in the thickest one I think".

    I too have a one hole gasket or 1.27mm and am about to replace my head. A mechanic yesterday said that he would be putting a 3 hole or 1.35mm back in, rather than going with the existing size. Why would you do that? Just wondering which one to order from Turner's.


    regards
    David

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, SA
    Posts
    567

    JustiC what symptoms?

    Hi Justin, what symptoms did you allude to here?
    I seem to have fixed all coolant leaks but under load I seem to loose coolant and then get an overheating problem, ie; it only overheats when coolant is low and that only happens towing. I have replaced radiator, hoses, water pump, the thermo fan clutch is good and there are no bubbles in the coolant once the system has been bled correctly.

    Regards

    Mike

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges.
    Posts
    6,171
    Thanks for this thread. I think I have to take mine off, not because it's leaking, but because I butchered an exhaust stud repair. The head repairer says he can fix it no worries, but I'm not sure. Any thoughts from the gurus? I'm not daunted by the nature of the job, as I've taken lots of heads off before, but I am concerned by the hardness issues BK talks about.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]



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  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Guyra
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Right, following on from my thread at the end of last week, I now have teh head off the 90 and I thought it may be useful to post the procedure for people to at least get an idea of how to do it. I managed to get it in our garage by letting the tyres down so decided to have a go at it on my own at home

    I will have 3 or 4 stages to this.

    1. Removal of head.
    2. strip and rebuild of head
    3. refitting of head.

    I will also say that I have tried to capture this accuratley but I may have missed something. Be warned!

    So lets make a start.


    Remove Bonnet.




    Remove Fan cowl





    Remove Engine cover




    Remove intercooler pipe




    Remove Radiator hoses and drain coolant.

    Remove

    Remove Breather hose




    Remove Injector loom plug.


    Remove Rocker cover. 10mm socket is required. Also unbolt dipstick tube



    Remove Top radiator hose, and air inlet hose including AFM.



    Remove Turbo heat shield. 3 bolts as marked. (one into bracket mounted onto turbo may have come adrift of rivets)



    Remove Injector loom. Push clips on each injector and push fit round connector.




    Remove exhaust manifold. 13mm socket and ratchet with extension. May be necessary to remove rotor filter cover to get easier access.



    Remove water pipe



    Remove wiring loom from water temp sensor, unbolt 2 clips on front of head, disconnect glow plugs, MAP sensor and any other sensors that are in this area (EGR etc) Thread loom out of inlet manifold



    Remember to plug all oil pipes and turbo etc.

    Disconnect fuel lines. One from fuel cooler can be connected to the one on the head as highlighted to keep it clean. I unbolted the entire fuel cooler to make disconnection easier, rather than risk breaking the clips



    Remove Fan from engine, and manually rotate engine to align the 2 coloured links and pulley groove. Lock the pulley in position with a bolt down from the top. See next 2 pictures.





    Remove Cam chain tensioner.



    Remove Vacuum hose.



    Now remove everything highlighted here. Can shaft front cover, the bolt on the OSF corner, the nut on the NSF corner, and the allen key that is the guide for the can chain tensioner. Once you have removed the front cam shaft plug, remove the 3 bolts that hold on the cam shaft pulley.



    Double check everything is disconnected and lift off head. I recommend an engine crane but I did it with Sams help and we lifted it off.




    Gasket looks perfect. Dowels have a slight amount of damage but not much.



    If you do decide to do this yourself be careful. Its nota ctually that difficult but, my car has no aircon and is a Defender so it is easier than an Aircon spec Defender and a fair bit easier than a Disco.

    Anyway, the head gasket looks fine, and I cant see any issues with it but I will clean everything up tommorow and go from there. Still happy I have stripped it as i dont like not being 100% confident in a car.

    The saga will contiue.
    Great write up.

    I'm curious about the timing chain:
    I notice that you mention securing the cam with a bolt. Is there any need to buy the pins and secure the crank, or is it safe to zip tie the chain and drop a bolt in the cam?

    Also, facing the front which do I rotate the crank clock wise or anti clockwise?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Townsville QLD
    Posts
    257
    I have just a couple personal experiences from doing this job.

    1. Remember to put your cam gear in your chain before you fit your nice new head gasket and torque all your new head bolts. (unless you enjoy breaking and re-riveting cam chains)

    2. Make sure ALL 5 of your injector o-rings are in the correct groove. Check by making sure no leakage around each injector with rocker cover off when you turn the key on and tank pump will build pressure. (I had to drain 40L of diesel out of my engine and full intercooler and I was lucky I had the intake hose off at the time.

    Stupid mistakes. (Maybe try not doing the job at night after work might help)

    Brian.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Sunny Coast QLD
    Posts
    27,772
    Gentlemen,, Please!
    This Forum is not the place for conversation,,,
    by all means link/refer to it,, but please ask questions in the Technical Forum.

    Thanks,,
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

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  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    2

    Fan removal

    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    No worries Pete, anytime. As I said before, phone calls and questions etc are always welcome from anyone who needs help or just to bounce ideas off etc

    The corroded block ended up in the scrap bin, as almost all the cylinders had only 1 fire ring sealing ring touching the block face. The rest of the cast iron just wasn't there!

    You can see on the pic that there are a few questionable places where a leak may be found, and also where the gasket sealing ring marks have become 'blurred' as the head moved even that tiny bit, effectively losing the seal between surfaces.

    Keep up the good work

    JC
    Thanks for the postings and kind help here. Am new here but am already finding a lot of help with my td5 discovery. My question is, is the fan supposed to be able to turn freely on its own pinion even if the nut is stationary? Also, I opened the drain plug to find the car was empty of coolant. Smoking when running and engine pretty wet at mating lines... Definitely a gasket job, right?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Lol Dave, I lost one clip and it ended up in the cowl...... luckily

    I had time to get a picture between everything as I wasnt really in a hurry.

    However I did try and repair our lawnmower at the same time and have ruined that so it wasnt a fully succesful afternoon!!! damn thing
    I still can't believe you did this job with the fan still in place. I don't think you can do this on a discovery 2 td5..

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