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Thread: TD5 Cylinder head removal - How to...

  1. #1
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    TD5 Cylinder head removal - How to...

    Right, following on from my thread at the end of last week, I now have teh head off the 90 and I thought it may be useful to post the procedure for people to at least get an idea of how to do it. I managed to get it in our garage by letting the tyres down so decided to have a go at it on my own at home

    I will have 3 or 4 stages to this.

    1. Removal of head.
    2. strip and rebuild of head
    3. refitting of head.

    I will also say that I have tried to capture this accuratley but I may have missed something. Be warned!

    So lets make a start.


    Remove Bonnet.




    Remove Fan cowl





    Remove Engine cover




    Remove intercooler pipe




    Remove Radiator hoses and drain coolant.

    Remove

    Remove Breather hose




    Remove Injector loom plug.


    Remove Rocker cover. 10mm socket is required. Also unbolt dipstick tube



    Remove Top radiator hose, and air inlet hose including AFM.



    Remove Turbo heat shield. 3 bolts as marked. (one into bracket mounted onto turbo may have come adrift of rivets)



    Remove Injector loom. Push clips on each injector and push fit round connector.




    Remove exhaust manifold. 13mm socket and ratchet with extension. May be necessary to remove rotor filter cover to get easier access.



    Remove water pipe



    Remove wiring loom from water temp sensor, unbolt 2 clips on front of head, disconnect glow plugs, MAP sensor and any other sensors that are in this area (EGR etc) Thread loom out of inlet manifold



    Remember to plug all oil pipes and turbo etc.

    Disconnect fuel lines. One from fuel cooler can be connected to the one on the head as highlighted to keep it clean. I unbolted the entire fuel cooler to make disconnection easier, rather than risk breaking the clips



    Remove Fan from engine, and manually rotate engine to align the 2 coloured links and pulley groove. Lock the pulley in position with a bolt down from the top. See next 2 pictures.





    Remove Cam chain tensioner.



    Remove Vacuum hose.



    Now remove everything highlighted here. Can shaft front cover, the bolt on the OSF corner, the nut on the NSF corner, and the allen key that is the guide for the can chain tensioner. Once you have removed the front cam shaft plug, remove the 3 bolts that hold on the cam shaft pulley.



    Double check everything is disconnected and lift off head. I recommend an engine crane but I did it with Sams help and we lifted it off.




    Gasket looks perfect. Dowels have a slight amount of damage but not much.



    If you do decide to do this yourself be careful. Its nota ctually that difficult but, my car has no aircon and is a Defender so it is easier than an Aircon spec Defender and a fair bit easier than a Disco.

    Anyway, the head gasket looks fine, and I cant see any issues with it but I will clean everything up tommorow and go from there. Still happy I have stripped it as i dont like not being 100% confident in a car.

    The saga will contiue.

  2. #2
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    You've done well Pete, And that dowel IS a problem, as you saw there is very little room for error with the fire ring to water port distances. I would say you have caught it in time, and you will find a small leak somewhere between a water port and a fire ring. It will be hard to spot, as it won't take much to create symptoms with a turbo diesel.



    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    good drills....

    the aircon deefer is not much harder than the non aircon deefer its just some of the acess gets a mite tricky..

    one thing I would reccomend doing slightly differently is purchasing a decent chunk of cardboard then folding and profiling it to sit over the radiator between the fan and back out over the lower half of the cowling....

    Every single nut bolt, tool or anything else that I have ever dropped off the top of a td5 donk has wound up either hanging over the edge of the cowling OR down inside it...

    I wish I had the time or an offsider to down tools for every job I did so I could take pics of it...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #4
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    Lol Dave, I lost one clip and it ended up in the cowl...... luckily

    I had time to get a picture between everything as I wasnt really in a hurry.

    However I did try and repair our lawnmower at the same time and have ruined that so it wasnt a fully succesful afternoon!!! damn thing

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    You've done well Pete, And that dowel IS a problem, as you saw there is very little room for error with the fire ring to water port distances. I would say you have caught it in time, and you will find a small leak somewhere between a water port and a fire ring. It will be hard to spot, as it won't take much to create symptoms with a turbo diesel.



    JC
    Thanks Justin You're right there isnt a lot of room. Luckily I didnt have that drama your customer had with the eating away of the block. Mine has always had OAT in it (well apart from the week up the cape)

    I thought when it came off to start with that teh dowels hadnt got any deformation atall but after I pulled one out and span it round you could see it.

    I will have a close look at it all tommorow in daylight.

    Head gasket is a 1 hole one, but I will be putting in the thickest one I think.

    No doubt I will bother you on the phone numerous times during this

    Thanks for your advice and help so far.

    Rgds
    Peter

  6. #6
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    Head removal

    Top job Pete.

    At least the TD5 head is a bit lighter than the Isuzu head. 2 people is definately the go.

    Justin

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Thanks Justin You're right there isnt a lot of room. Luckily I didnt have that drama your customer had with the eating away of the block. Mine has always had OAT in it (well apart from the week up the cape)

    I thought when it came off to start with that teh dowels hadnt got any deformation atall but after I pulled one out and span it round you could see it.

    I will have a close look at it all tommorow in daylight.

    Head gasket is a 1 hole one, but I will be putting in the thickest one I think.

    No doubt I will bother you on the phone numerous times during this

    Thanks for your advice and help so far.

    Rgds
    Peter

    No worries Pete, anytime. As I said before, phone calls and questions etc are always welcome from anyone who needs help or just to bounce ideas off etc

    The corroded block ended up in the scrap bin, as almost all the cylinders had only 1 fire ring sealing ring touching the block face. The rest of the cast iron just wasn't there!

    You can see on the pic that there are a few questionable places where a leak may be found, and also where the gasket sealing ring marks have become 'blurred' as the head moved even that tiny bit, effectively losing the seal between surfaces.

    Keep up the good work

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    ................

    2. strip and rebuild of head


    Well done and good luck.

    I didn't think item 2 was possible

    Just spent a motsa on a new one ....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rosco View Post
    Well done and good luck.

    I didn't think item 2 was possible

    Just spent a motsa on a new one ....
    It IS possible Rosco, although LR say it isn't. It also wholly depends on whether or not excessive (Over 8thou) warpage is present, and how soft the head has become after an overheat.

    I have been told you can reliably machine up to 10thou off these head surfaces before running into strife due to lack of surface hardening and valve recess clearances. I have had them recoed in the past with no ill effects.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    Hi Rosco,

    It depends on what damage you have. It doesnt look like mine has suffered any damage at first look, although I iwll be getting it pressure checked.

    As far as I have found out you can get away with a minimum skim (less than 10thou)

    Sure JC or Blknight will add more to that.

    Just out of interest how much did you pay for your new one?

    Rgds
    Pete

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