I've been thinking of making it a little longer, nothing like a few extra inches:D
Or just source a 130" chassis.....:angel:
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Or just source a 130" chassis.....:angel:
Plenty of dead td5s and pumas around these days:lol2:
I tried to purchase a chassis from a stat write off 130 a wile back and found out it cant be re registered in NSW:(
Plenty of dead td5s and pumas around these days:lol2:
I tried to purchase a chassis from a stat write off 130 a wile back and found out it cant be re registered in NSW:([/QUOTE]
*cough* number/letter stamps *cough
Sshhhh, exnay on the dead TD5 Puma nay:p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/848.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/849.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/850.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/851.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/852.jpg
Little helper:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/853.jpg
Well, if ever you'd entertained the thought of buying a hoist, all I can say is, DO IT, its ****ing great, still love it:wub:, best 3k I ever went halfs in:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/854.jpg
I like the welding on the engine mounts:eek: And the very neat cut out job :eek: Must have been poked in after the 4BD1 was dropped in.
Did the chassis whistle at 80 kmh and over:D
I hear you on the number thing:D:angel:
Poked?.....more like hacked:eek:
Not sure, it had arm strong steering originally, so maybe the power steer box's are larger?
Yea, nice welding job:eek:
80km/hr and over? whats that in an N/A Izoozoo:angel:, couldn't hear it over the engine noise....cab rattles.....tray rattles.....:D
$1600 for a 130" chassis, delivered, hmmm, buy that, weld engine mounts in, blast it, Gal it and it'll last forever!
fair enough. i took ya other rover for a spin this arvo, did a bit of hill climbing in the backyard, performed faultlessly, needs a bit more articulation and lower gearing though:D
Hey Matt, Just an idea I had years ago wile building a series hybrid on a stretched Rangie chassis... Lift the outriggers etc 2" and brace over the top . Lift the engine and gear box mounts, then run a double cardan joint on the front shaft. Then a front sals will clear the sump:cool:
If you get a 130 chassis you wouldn't bother as to much stuffing around:( The above idea will keep the suspension geometry very nice and can run long down travel but retain near stock ride height in effect.
I think a 130 chassis even at 1K would be cheaper than buggering around extending a 110 somehow.:)