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Thread: Nutserts/Rivnuts without the tool. (pics)

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    cheap rivnut tools

    Last time I looked at the frontrunner.co.za website, I noticed they were selling rivnut tools for about $15AUD each!!!. About a tenth of the local price. There was no photo to confirm that what they called a rivnut tool and what I imagine to be a rivnut tool are the same thing.

    Here's the link
    about a third of the way down the page.

    The aussie dollars taken a tumble, they're now $18.12c Australian, only a 9th of the local price.
    Last edited by Michael2; 18th November 2008 at 08:42 PM. Reason: add detail

  2. #12
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    DONT buy the cheap rivnut tools.....

    the pulling stud tends to be metal which falls into the catagory of

    "I could have put chunky peanut butter into the freezer then lathed a thread onto it and done a better job"

    It will work for a few but then will start to gall the thread which will lead to one of 2 things happening...

    1. the thread will stick in the nutsert making it impossable to remove
    2. the adaptor will wind out of the handle when you try to free it making it impossable to remove

    either way you wind up with a convenient but usually unwanted nutserting tool shaped handle to help you climb around things.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    DONT buy the cheap rivnut tools.....
    I'm not sure that the South African one would be a cheap tool. After all, all the cheap accessories they sell are expensive accessories here (OL), with perhaps the exception of the wheel carriers.

    Anyway, the afore mentioned free way to do the job means a much more compact tool box, so that's good for me. Now to go out and get some rivnuts. I think they were 30c ea at the bolt shop in Ferntree Gully for the Melbourne people living east (about 6 months ago).

  4. #14
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    I installed some on friday, just used a piece of 1/8th flat steel and drilled a 1/64th clearance hole for the bolt and it held them down no problems at all, then just pulled them up tight with spanner.
    The alternative to using a spanner would be a good cordless drill with a ratchet/clutch.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
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  5. #15
    C00P Guest
    Got some pictures here

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/1...g-chassis.html

    that show how I installed rivnuts into my chassis rails to hold a bracket supporting the auxiliary fuel tank. I also used the flat strap method with a clamp to hold the rivnut firm while I wound the nut to expand the rivnut. I purchased a hi-tensile bolt and nut for the job. These were 8mm steel rivnuts. The bolt, nut, flat steel and washers now reside in my "special tools" box in the shed, ready for next time.
    Cheers,

    Coop

  6. #16
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    This an excellent way to do rivnuts. I actually often find it easier than using the tool as often there are space restrictions working on the Landie and you just can not open the handles out.

    Great tips thread guys.

  7. #17
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    For members in the South East i'm more than happy for them to come over & use my nutsert tool.

    I have 4mm through to 12mm utilising 2 separate tools. But if room is restricted using the bolt & nut option is the only way to go.

    Cheers
    David

  8. #18
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    I tried this method a couple of months ago on some 5mm rivinuts. All that happened was I twisted the head off two high tensile bolts. It is very difficult to get half squashed rivinuts with a broken bolt out of the hole you wanted them to stay in. Luckily I was able to remove the plate in which I wanted to put the rivinuts and could then squash the rivinuts in place by hitting them with a hammer. Which had the same effect in the end.

  9. #19
    C00P Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by danialan View Post
    I tried this method a couple of months ago on some 5mm rivinuts. All that happened was I twisted the head off two high tensile bolts. It is very difficult to get half squashed rivinuts with a broken bolt out of the hole you wanted them to stay in. Luckily I was able to remove the plate in which I wanted to put the rivinuts and could then squash the rivinuts in place by hitting them with a hammer. Which had the same effect in the end.
    I have to say I'm amazed. I fitted 8mm steel rivnuts using this method without any problems at all. The way it's done, the bolt is simply held still, all the work is done by the nut on the bolt. I'm not sure why you would be twisting the bolt.
    But maybe there is something about the smaller sized rivnuts that makes them more difficult to install?
    Cheers,

    Coop

  10. #20
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    The smaller ones take more compressing to get to start.

    IF you dont lubricate the thread of the bolt that the nut will be running on OR you make the bolt too long you'll snap it off where the thread cutting meets the taper of the shank.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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