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Thread: Perkins 4.182 and a 10 Speed in a Series 3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Gladdy/Bilo (QLD)
    Posts
    190

    Perkins 4.182 and a 10 Speed in a Series 3

    Hi all.

    I have been lurking around for a bit over a year now and haven't said or done much (some people may call this stalking), so I thought it was time to post a couple of pics of my current project.




    Its a 1977 LandRover Series 3 that has been fitted with a Perkins 4.182 (Mazda HA), that was mated to the standard gearbox.
    For a while I have wanted to fit a different gearbox, so after a few calls to Rolin Imports (Gearboxes-Rolin Automotive Imports.) I had a shiny SL 10 speed box (5 speed with lay shaft splitter) out of a Mazda T3500.
    I chose this gearbox as in the T3500 it was mated to the Mazda HA engine so should be an easy conversion.

    The car has been sitting for the last 2 years so its not in pristine condition and will need a fair bit of body work.

    I started by pulling the wings off and giving it a bit of a touch up with a pressure washer.



    Then pulling the engine and gearbox.



    As the firewall and floor will need to be significantly modified to suit the far larger gearbox and remote mounted transfer case I also decided to completely strip back the front part of the body.




    The new gearbox temporally mated to the engine.



    In the picture you can see that the starter is mounted from the gearbox side of the flywheel, and also the bell housing is substantially larger than the Series equivalent.
    It is also only a RWD gear box so I intend to use a standard Series 3 transfer box. I purchased a transfer box that had been modified to use a jack shaft input from Graham Filer at Rockhampton LandRover and Mechanical (ROCKHAMPTON LANDROVER & MECHANICAL). I will mount this behind the chassis member behind the gearbox and will run a two piece prop shaft to the front diff and a baby single piece shaft down to the rear diff.

    Well at least that's the plans.
    Last edited by incisor; 20th January 2009 at 03:18 PM. Reason: spelling

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    20,221
    Sounds like a very interesting project. I look forward to further progress reports.

    john
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth - WA
    Posts
    469
    yep. I'm looking forward to this one as it progresses.

    Jim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    In my D2a Ripping It Up
    Posts
    8,539
    Looking good , one thing you need to do well your at it is bolt a turbo on and it will fly
    cheers chris


    My Toy 04 D2a Td5 Manual With Lots of Goodie Goodness
    S111 Swb a work in progress
    Two Wheel Fun Factor
    Triumph Sprint St 955i

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Brisbane, Inner East.
    Posts
    8,859
    I think you are going to have a lot of surplus low gears for light vehicle use. This is the nature of truck range change gearboxes.
    URSUSMAJOR

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Gladdy/Bilo (QLD)
    Posts
    190
    The next update:

    I put the engine and gearbox back in the car so I could check the new gearbox clearances, start taking the measurements for the gearbox mounts, and see how much the firewall needs to be trimmed up.



    As it turns out the firewall needs a lot of trimming, the cross member under the bell housing may also need a bit of modification.



    The firewall is currently at the sandblasters, when it comes back I will give it a quick touch of primer and start repairing the rust and will cut out the panel above the bell housing.

    After looking at some of the other projects on the forum I got jealous and wanted mine to look as pretty as theirs. So in my stupidity I started pulling more body panels off, with the plan being to take it back to bare chassis and paint every thing.
    So far I have stripped it all back except for the tub.



    But I found some more cancer.
    (besides the stuff in the firewall, front door tops, bottom of front doors, pretty much all of the rear doors, the bottom of the barn door etc...)




    This got me thinking (which is always a bad sign), I wouldn't mind being able to go roofless occasionally.
    So my body options are:
    Replace the 5 Door body with a 3 Door one.
    or
    Cut and brace the B pillars, and cut the top off the rear passenger doors and rear barn door.

    Has anyone done a 5 door roofless modification before?
    The 3 door conversion would be better if I could find a body in good condition, but will require mod plates and the associated Queensland Transport stab your self in the face with a fork run around.
    The hardest thing I see about the 5 door modification is repairing the rust already present in the B and C pillars.

    I also came across some brand new racing seats that I picked up for $100 for the both of them.


    So I am planning to put these in instead of the standard seats which would of required some upholstery work anyway.

    I also picked up some International (International Paint) Interfine 629 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYA...0+P+eng+A4.pdf and http://www.international-pc.com/MPYA...9+P+eng+A4.pdf) and Interprime 198 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYA...8+P+eng+A4.pdf).

    Ive got two drums of green and a single drum of white 629 (approx 5lrts each), as well as a 10 ltr drum of 198.
    I just now need to get some etch and all the other associated gear (respirator and guns).
    I will also need to figure out how to do this painting thing, after a bit of a search I found this gem: Paint your Land Rover (some off the links don't work).

    Unfortunately after reading some of the linked pages I found out the paint I scored is two part linear polyurethane paint which is pretty dangerous (not as bad as Iso-cyanates two part paints however) and is a pain in the **** to paint with if you don't know what your doing (that means me).
    So to say the least this will be an "interesting" experience.

    I am also considering getting some sandblasting gear to help/speed up the panel preparation. Has anyone had any experience with doing this them selves? Can you offer any advice?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Gladdy/Bilo (QLD)
    Posts
    190
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    I think you are going to have a lot of surplus low gears for light vehicle use. This is the nature of truck range change gearboxes.
    Don't stress I have already had a bit of a look.
    Yes first in the Mazda box will be a LOT lower that the first in the series, but If I just leave the splitter in high the gear spread isn't too bad.

    Below are the gear ratios: (sorry about the pic but I couldn't get the text to display correctly)


    The best thing about this setup will be the decreased engine RPM while at highway speeds.

  8. #8
    mcrover Guest
    You could have a lot of fun with some 4.11 diffs to bring the ratios back to normal car type OD gearing

    This would give you a great range of low range 4wd gearing + great Hwy performance.

    Im with Rangieman, look at throwing a small Turbo on to give it just a little more pull

    This would be great in a county with coils

    Good luck with it and keep the updates coming

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,566
    Quote Originally Posted by maca View Post
    The next update:

    I put the engine and gearbox back in the car so I could check the new gearbox clearances, start taking the measurements for the gearbox mounts, and see how much the firewall needs to be trimmed up.



    As it turns out the firewall needs a lot of trimming, the cross member under the bell housing may also need a bit of modification.



    The firewall is currently at the sandblasters, when it comes back I will give it a quick touch of primer and start repairing the rust and will cut out the panel above the bell housing.

    After looking at some of the other projects on the forum I got jealous and wanted mine to look as pretty as theirs. So in my stupidity I started pulling more body panels off, with the plan being to take it back to bare chassis and paint every thing.
    So far I have stripped it all back except for the tub.



    But I found some more cancer.
    (besides the stuff in the firewall, front door tops, bottom of front doors, pretty much all of the rear doors, the bottom of the barn door etc...)




    This got me thinking (which is always a bad sign), I wouldn't mind being able to go roofless occasionally.
    So my body options are:
    Replace the 5 Door body with a 3 Door one.
    or
    Cut and brace the B pillars, and cut the top off the rear passenger doors and rear barn door.

    Has anyone done a 5 door roofless modification before?
    The 3 door conversion would be better if I could find a body in good condition, but will require mod plates and the associated Queensland Transport stab your self in the face with a fork run around.
    The hardest thing I see about the 5 door modification is repairing the rust already present in the B and C pillars.

    I also came across some brand new racing seats that I picked up for $100 for the both of them.


    So I am planning to put these in instead of the standard seats which would of required some upholstery work anyway.

    I also picked up some International (International Paint) Interfine 629 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYA...0+P+eng+A4.pdf and http://www.international-pc.com/MPYA...9+P+eng+A4.pdf) and Interprime 198 (http://www.international-pc.com/MPYA...8+P+eng+A4.pdf).

    Ive got two drums of green and a single drum of white 629 (approx 5lrts each), as well as a 10 ltr drum of 198.
    I just now need to get some etch and all the other associated gear (respirator and guns).
    I will also need to figure out how to do this painting thing, after a bit of a search I found this gem: Paint your Land Rover (some off the links don't work).

    Unfortunately after reading some of the linked pages I found out the paint I scored is two part linear polyurethane paint which is pretty dangerous (not as bad as Iso-cyanates two part paints however) and is a pain in the **** to paint with if you don't know what your doing (that means me).
    So to say the least this will be an "interesting" experience.

    I am also considering getting some sandblasting gear to help/speed up the panel preparation. Has anyone had any experience with doing this them selves? Can you offer any advice?
    Don't sandblast alloy panels, it will peen the metal out of shape and can work harden them, there are other forms of blasting, like soda or bead, I would talk to an experienced sandblaster about the best method to use for alloy panels, Regards Frank.
    What Goes Around, Comes Around.
    94 Disco 300TDi Auto, with the Lot
    93 Disco with the lot, Gone
    78 Series III 109, Diesel.
    Toyota BJ 40, Gone
    Ford Bronco WOW, Gone
    Toyota 4Runner RIP
    F100 4WD, Unbelievable, Gone
    Suzuki Brilliant, Gone

  10. #10

    Smile

    Hi,
    Been lurking a while. Very interested in the progress
    I have a fully imported ex british RAF SIIA with a galvanised 1 tonne chassis and a perkins 4-182 bolted to the standard IIA box. It seems like it has a top speed of about 80km/h. It seems a big length to go to putting the T3500 box in. I'm wondering if anyone has played with diff ratios or tyre sizes to give a perkins powered landy better highway speeds. I can appreciate that the T3500 box would be incredibly strong and should you turbo it it would definitely handle the power. Mind you I would fit a stage1 front axle assemble to stop it and to have cv axles for strength.
    Is the mazda HA motor absolutely identical to the Perkins 4-182? I am looking for a workshop manual, can anyone help steer me in the right direction?
    Cheers, Peter

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