Thread: Progress on My Unimog

Somewhere back in this thread it was mentioned that the Mog will be too tall for a container. Plenty of stuff gets shipped in open top containers, so I'd look into that if you plan a World Safari. They usually have a tarp on top, and they get loaded last, as they can't get stacked upon. Just need care ( and a permit ) when trucking to and from the wharf, as they are over height.

Brilliant work. Great truck. Just don't tip it over, as the Army manage to do often.

Hi Ian,
Well I thought I did well to talk my wife into building a camper on the back of an Iveco 4x4 next year when the new model comes out, but how did you manage to get her to agree to the Unimog! What a project, you have done a great job. Great reading,
Cheers Ross

I'll go with the RORO to Malaysia for the first leg of the trip, I think myu mog will be harder to tip than my Land Rover, I don't have to carry much on the roof in the mog .

Originally Posted by johntins

Somewhere back in this thread it was mentioned that the Mog will be too tall for a container. Plenty of stuff gets shipped in open top containers, so I'd look into that if you plan a World Safari. They usually have a tarp on top, and they get loaded last, as they can't get stacked upon. Just need care ( and a permit ) when trucking to and from the wharf, as they are over height.

Brilliant work. Great truck. Just don't tip it over, as the Army manage to do often.

I didn't tell her I was buying it She thought I was crazy, but now she loves it.

Originally Posted by Roscodaily

Hi Ian,
Well I thought I did well to talk my wife into building a camper on the back of an Iveco 4x4 next year when the new model comes out, but how did you manage to get her to agree to the Unimog! What a project, you have done a great job. Great reading,
Cheers Ross

Mog is progressing nicely. I've got the engine cooling/camper heating system all installed, and have had the engine running up to operating temperature. The engine is super smooth and quiet. I have three air bleed points in the system, and a booster pump to ensure the rear heaters, and the hot water systems get their fair share of heat from the engine. The diesel furnace can heat the camper, the cab and the engine block. The exhaust is directed to the sump, to help keep the oil warm as well.

The engine air compressor is pretty good, getting the whole system up to pressure in about 5 minutes. I can speed it up by switching on the auxiliary ARB electric air compressor. The truck air system is pretty well sealed now, it retains full air pressure for over a week.

The air conditioner is also complex, having a dual system in the cab means I need to have solenoids for each evaporator, so I can run either side independently, this add a bit of complication with the single compressor, but with some diodes and a double pole switch of each unit, it all works pretty well. The a/c fan is controlled by the pressure of the a/c system.

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I've used Silicon hose throughout the truck, a bit over kill, but should last a long time. The water-air intercooler is operational, the pump and fan are controlled by the intake air ( post intercooler) temperature.

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The insulation bag behind the cab is a bit of an experiment. The transmission on the mogs is as noisy as the engine, and with the big hole in the back of the cab, I needed something to keep the racket out. The bag is made from trude side sail material, and attached with velcro to the back of the cab. The rubber mudguard material protects the bag, and will help keep it in place.


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When the cab is down, it has a bit of compression on it, but not enough to stop the mog from flexing. I can still get the cab to move relative to the camper, but it is well dampened, which I think is a good thing. Good news is that it keeps the sound out really well.

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I changed the voltage sensitive relay over to a Blue Sea Systems, Magnetic Latch relay. It has can connect the house batteries to the start battery, or be fully automatic, like a normal VSR, or can be disconnected. Since I have two alternators, one for the start battery ( 90A ) and one for the house batteries ( 120A) I will run with them independent in normal conditions.

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If my grease seals arrive from Germany tomorrow ( and they have the right ones this time) then I can finish the front axle, then hopefully by the end of the week I will be able to drive the truck around the industrial complex. I've had the engineer out for all the mod plates, and once we get them all sorted, I can get the Safety Certifcate, HVRAS for change over from truck to RV and then get it registered.

As always, all very interesting. I like the way you have made the "boot" between the cabin and the body. Is the sail fabric wrapped around some foam stuff?

The engine bay is a work of art!

Thanks Dave, there are two different layers to the how the gap between the cab and camper are sealed. The inner layer is the same truck side sail matrial ( same as your awning) and has a steel frame and allows for the flex of the truck, and should hopefully keep the water and dust out. If we had known about the glue we found to "weld" the plastic when we made that part, we would have made it like a concertina, which would have been easier to install.

The bag if filled with the same Higgins Insulation that was used on the Brisbane bus fleet. We used this in the walls and roof of the camper as well. There are two layers of 50mm thick insulation squeezed into the 85mm gap. It certainly makes a difference to the sound.

I hope you realise Iain, that its now mandatory for a pic of the speedo needle off the end of the dial?

Fantastic build