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No Dan, lives on the Gold Coast - his Mog was feature in teh 4WD action magazine a while ago and he is now building a U1750 DOKA for his collection.
The set of tyres cost me $2.5K - but would be cost around $1600-1800 each to replace. They are 425/75-20's and have a max speed rating of 55mph. The 365-80-20 MPT cost $1100 each - an people complain about the BFG KM prices :eek:
Here are a few photos of the GT2860RS installation - it gets a bit close to the starter motor supply terminal - about 20mm - but I have trimmed a bit off the exhaust brake and will cut down the terminal to get around 50mm clearance. The manifold, adaptor, exhaust brake and dump pipe are in for ceramic coating - a three layer system that they claim will reduce heat output by 30-40%. I will wrap the dump pipe in Themotech tape where it runs close to the airlines. I also have new stainless heat shields should keep the air lines safe.Thermal edge
The bolts in the photos are all temporary - I've replace them all with studs. High tensile countersunk studs hole the turbo to the adaptors, and more HT studs hold the adaptor to the turbo, and the I increased the exhaust brake studs from 8mm to 10mm. I used studs as there was not enough space to use bolts.
The adaptor between the turbo and the exhaust brake took a while to fabricate - the flange is a weird oval shape, and that goes into the 70mm diameter exhaust brake. It also has to be at an angle so the exhaust brake clears the starter motor, but doesn't hit the cab ( I have not dropped the cab yet - so I hope it fits) . It took quite a bit of work to make it fit - and 1/2 a day of welding and grinding to smooth it out so that it will flow nicely. I added on substantial bits of weld as reinforcing to the adaptor - multiple runs on a high penetration setting. I think it will be strong enough to hold together under the heat and pressure when the exhaust brake is on.
Here is the latest installment of "Pimp my Mog" - I got all the shiny parts back from the coating place this week, and have assembled in all on the truck. The turbo, manifold, adapter, exhaust brake and the dump pipe all all coated with a three layer ceramic coating that should help keep the heat down a bit. The dump pipe will be wrapped with "Thermotec" tape - the ceramic coating will prevent the tape from damaging the pipe. The rest of the exhaust will just be painted with normal exhaust paint.
The main part of the work this week has been be still the air lines. I have also modified and fitted up all the gear linkages and most of the air lines for the over drive.
The diff lock are independently operated via two heavy duty solenoids mounted on the safety post. I have plumbed it so that when the 4wd/diff lock knob is turned to the diff lock position, the air is supplied to the solenoids. I can switch them on an off independently, and there are pressure switches on both lines to I will get a warning light when they are operating.
I have replaced all the fitting on the air system with the new push in connectors where ever possible. There are a few odd sizes on the Unimog that I could not find, so I replaced the old banjo and bolts with new ones. Basically everything on the air system is new, expect for a couple of banjos on the breather system, and they were still shiny and clean.
I have ordered the last of the tubing and fittings and soon will be able to charge up the system and see what leaks.
Anyway, not long before I start on the fuel system, and maybe get the engine running again by Christmas
Exhaust bits and pieces look excellent. Getting the motor running will be a milestone.
Thanks for posting the update - always interested to see how it's going.
Cheers
David
Yeh, thanks for the update. That is going to be an awesome unit.
So, David, are you still looking :)
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Yeah - sort of. Ben (in Canberra - Nashy on AULRO) in bringing in a mid 80's DoKA U1250 which looks very nice. 4 doors; Overdrive; New Tyres; etc.
Have also been re-evaluating how I can fit out my 130 so more fits in it. That's going to be the cheaper option by a long way, but am still interested in a Mog.
I think most options would be cheaper than a Mog - just the sheer size and number of systems on it make it not cheap - but then nothing else really compares to a Mog. The main thing to realise is that unless you buy a new $300K+ mog, then nearly all the ones available are either 20-25 years old, ( you can't import one younger than 1989) or were owned by mines or farmers who have absolutely rooted them - and still want $100K for itQuote:
Originally Posted by spudboy
My theory has been to basically do an overhaul job on nearly everything rubber, plastic or rusty, then there is less chance that something that is 25 years old will break and leave you stranded.
I doubt many people would take a 25 year old Land Rover and expect to drive it without doing a substantial amount of work. A mog is just a whole lot bigger, but once you get used to using the big spanners, it's not much different to any other car I've re-built.
I think I'm sure case of "shipwrights disease" - everything I look at I end up replacing, overhauling or as a minimum, repainting. Looking back, I could have been driving around now - after I finished painting the cab, I could have just re-assembled everything and got it running again then started the camper box - after all, everything was working when I bought it.
How is this for a recently completed Unimog, just back from a trip across the Simpson.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/11/385.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/11/386.jpg
So it's a Unimog, with a Kenworth Cab??? Never seen anything done like that before :eek:
I'd love to see what part of it is still a Unimog - wheel base looks huge. Love to see some under body photos and of the cab. I'm trying to imaging the height of the cab given where the engine sits and where the front wheels are is in relation to the engine - I suppose they could have moved the engine backwards.